Thanks for the report. What symptoms did your engine experience when the module failed? How was D-Tech (or the vendor you used) to deal with, when getting a replacment?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon6.2
Jim
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Thanks for the report. What symptoms did your engine experience when the module failed? How was D-Tech (or the vendor you used) to deal with, when getting a replacment?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon6.2
Jim
I replaced ANNOTHER failed black Stanaydyne PMD (that was mounted on a remote cooler) with the new grey "bulletproof" PMD 25 months ago.
Guess what? The "bulletproof" PMD just bit the bullet!! I got just over two years and UNDER 6,000 miles out of it! This is getting old and expensive!
Does ANYONE know of a real, longterm solution for the PMD problem? that is other than replacing the truck, which I can not afford. I'm desperate!
I'm retired, my wife's disabled and I'm her caregiver; so we are living on a very meager budget (just far enough the poverty line that we do not qualify for ANY assistance).
I really need this truck but, I need it to be reliable.
Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Ken
The last time mine was doing this it ended up being a marginal connection of the computer power lead on the firewall terminal strip. Heat and vibration would cause just enough voltage drop going to the computer to cause the 5 volt signal to the pmd to drop below its minimum voltage and would shut the fuel off. Removed the terminals, cleaned the connections, and reinstalled with dielectric grease to keep the nasties out.
[QUOTE=
Does ANYONE know of a real, longterm solution for the PMD problem? that is other than replacing the truck, which I can not afford. I'm desperate!
Thank you,
Ken[/QUOTE]
Hi Ken
I belive the only solution to the PMD problem is to bite the bullet and convert to a manual pump.
Now this becomes complicated if you have the auto trans.
There was a member on here that had a book he put out to do the conversion,i belive his name was Bobby Martin.
I have a 98 that has a manual trans,i have all the parts to convert,just no time.But the next time i have a problem that i can't solve without more$$,it will get the manual pump.
Good luck
Thomas
Bangski,
I hope your PMD ground is still attached to the IP.
Have you cleaned all ground connections yet? Cluster on right head, battery cables, ect. ?
Are you usiing any kind of contact patch or greese between the PMD and cooler?
Where is your remote location?
Just a few questions for starters.
Ken
I meant to say the only real solution is the conversion.
There could be other things that might be causing yours to die prematurly.
I'm old school and don't really take to computers,we are just wired different,the one thing i looked for when i bought the 98 was the manual so i could do the swap.
a5150nut has some good items to check if you havn't yet.
Good luck
Thomas
Ok, my 1993 6.5 has a severe suction when you take off the "new" vented gas cap. The others too. It didn't have this before the last few mos. or I would have noticed it I think. Well when empty it's always like normal right? Anyway I've fixed suction leaks at the fuel mgr., top return hose, new hoses and clamps in between. It's run like a champ! with the higher fuel pressure. And then dogged 2.5 hrs. into a trip, with even a backfire. I pulled over and loosened the cap...left it loose, Then it takes fuel normally again. The best answer I've gotten is that it's a symtom of a clogged sock; that high suction. Is this true?? Before I spill for a injector pump I want to cover everything. Air is coming in again. Stalled cold starting and hot starting. Both require bleeding the air out of the system. Tank is suspect. Clogged bi-pass valve? holes in lines back there?? Anybody know some stuff about this area?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Mac
Stanadyne Corp.
SERVICE LETTER 328R2 dated February 20, 2014
Quote:
Stanadyne is changing the warranty coverage on DS Pump Mounted Drivers effective with PMD kits sold from March 1, 2014 forward. From that date forward, PMD kits 35976 and 40736 sold over the counter or not installed on the pump per the specification will be covered for a period of 30 days, unlimited miles. In addition, the warranty for PMD’s sold over the counter and/or improperly installed is limited to 1 free replacement PMD during the 30 day warranty period. Suspect PMD’s do not have to be returned to Stanadyne (unless we specifically request them for analysis) but as before, the proof of warranty documents must be emailed to warranty@stanadyne.com
The 2 years, unlimited miles coverage will continue to apply to complete new DS pumps with the PMD installed at the factory (and installed on the engine that way), and to replacement PMD’s that are installed on the pump to specification by the Authorized Dealer (and installed on the engine that way).
I suspect you meant diesel cap, but it's helpful that everyone knows that there is a big difference between a fuel tank cap made for a gas powered truck versus a 6.5 diesel truck. You must specify a "diesel" fuel cap when buying a replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by nealpellecchia
According to GM, a diesel fuel cap should vent when internal fuel tank pressure exceeds 2-psi or 1" vaccum. Gas caps are generally not vented, which would create huge vacuum as fuel in drawn down in the tank.
Jim
Greetings:
I have a 94 Suburban, auto trans. Drove this from Cali to Michigan Jan 2015. During the trip I developed a stall problem leaving Denver. But it restarted and I went on my way. Later it also gave me a check engine signal at higher speeds (70-73mph), slow down 5mph and the light went out. Sometimes it would show up at 65mph - but go away just by letting off accelerator. I did have some bucking, like not enough fuel, when climbing a few grades leaving Cali towards Utah and in Colorado. I made it to Michigan. Once I got here, I had a situation where it would start in the parking lot and stall after about 12 secs of running. It kept doing this for about 10 tries. I went home for the evening, headed back the next day and started it up and it kept running - headed back home only ¼ mile away. Made it. After that it stranded me in another lot. I had to travel out of US for 7 months so it sat there. I haven't tried to start it since I returned because it is 2.5 hours away. I've read a number of posts and I think it is either a lift pump, PMD/FSD, or maybe even the fuel solenoid. In this thread, and the sticky on the PMD, I do not see much in recent years on the matter.
I'm going to buy some parts - that way, when I do go to that part of the State, I can fix it. I am tempted to just try the PMD/FSD but I don't want to short it if it's fuel solenoid. What brand PMD is recommended these days? Also, how about the fuel solenoid…what brand is best? Is the fuel solenoid the same as the "fuel cut-off solenoid"? If they are separate products what is good brand for the "fuel cut-off solenoid"? And what brand for a lift pump? Thanks for help. This has been a learning curve and a good experience so far.
Cheers!
David
I would bet on the PMD. Unfortunately the only way to really eliminate the PMD is to put one in and see if the problem goes away. Also check your grounds and power connections. The 6.5 tends to be voltage sensitive. The first time My 94 was doing this I bought a Heath relocation PMD and that worked for several years. The next time it started to do this it turned out to be the power connections on the firewall terminal strip were not tight enough and had corrosion buildup. A quick and cheap shotgun shell is to take those connections off (one post at a time) and clean them up and reinstall them. Use some sort of grease on them to seal the terminals from further corrosion. I used Dow Corning DC-4.
Justin
When my pmd failed I replaced it with a DTech pmd , been running fine ever since .
Greetings.
Well, got the notice today that a new msg came into the thread, thought I'd look at it for fun. Realized I never reported outcomes (though a very observant person might've noticed that I have an Accurate Diesel PMD listed in my mod list).
Anyhow…that's what I did. I changed out the PMD. And voila…nothing. Wouldn't start, and there it was the sweet fragrance of diesel…arghh. Opened hood smell diesel, can't see any. Nada. Well, I tried to start again. Then had wife try to start and I see a leak in hose at IP pump fitting. Whew. Must be that when I removed the original PMD plug to attach the relocation harness I jostled the fuel line and it being brittle decided to crack. Got new hoses, rid myself of previous owner mod in that line and it started right up. Then decided to change fuel filter. That was a research project all of it's own due to previous owner mod and which I finally resolved. Getting it primed was hassle and when I found the info on how to jumper pins on OBD-1 to activate the lift pump I was happy. Now I have a nice setup for fuel filtration. Only thing I want to do is remove a 1st owner filter just after tank on the lower frame - seems unnecessary.
Per previous suggestions…I looked at as many electrical fittings as I could and no corrosion could be found and all seemed solidly seated.
Will have to do something about the position of the new PMD for winter driving - it's on the inside of bumper near air scoop at moment - ripe for salt exposure and subsequent corrosion.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Everything worked out happily. Hoping it will continue so. Enjoying the diesel experience.
Cheers!
Can some one help me please im new to this truck i feel so stressed out im only 22 and stuck its my only truck and cant go no were when the temp hits normal from cold you put it in drive and theres not power just wants to bog out and stall with blue smoke but put it in park and minkey with the gas pedal and it will miss like mad but still the turbo is running but it will smoke black when doing this and it will go away and run fine but as soon as you try to drive it goes back to the boggy nes idk what to do