I have an 06 Duramax and want to change the fuel filter myself. Are there any special tools needed and can anyone tell me how to do it or direct me to a link with instructions? Thanks
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I have an 06 Duramax and want to change the fuel filter myself. Are there any special tools needed and can anyone tell me how to do it or direct me to a link with instructions? Thanks
A six pack and patience. Band aids and towels...:D
In all seriousness, it does go over the process in the Owner's manual. I haven't changed mine out yet (still under 5k miles). But it looks fairly simple and straight forward. The owners manual and some mechanic friends recommend taking off the front passeneger side fenderwell. I will do that the first time out and see if I can skip that step the next time. (Some claim to change it without removing the fenderwell)
I'm sure someone here will chime in with step-by-step instructions.
Hey DAKSTER! Try just taking the air intake tube off. The one between the air filter housing and the hard plastic intake piece.. I did that on a 2007 Sierra calssic and it worked great and I only need a 5/16 nut driver to remove it. ;) This will also work on the 2006!!!
The filters can be a bit of a PITA to replace, but it's not complicated. On my 2001, it's easy to replace w/o removing anything but the filter, but the 2001's have a bit more room in the area. Mine comes out through the top. Removing the fender liner makes it accessible in later model trucks, but some folks can get it out through the wheel opening by flexing the liner. Problem is getting it back in. Careful to not knock a bunch of dirt/stuff onto the filter before getting it engaged. For your first change, I suggest removing the liner. After that, you'll have a better look at it to help with future changes. Removing the liner is no big deal, so you may decide to just keep that strategy. For removal, you will very likely need a wrench, of sorts, to loosen it. I suggest a webbing type strap wrench. Mine is about as simple as it gets. It accepts a 1/2" drive extension, and I use an 18" breaker bar on top of the 10" extension. With the extension, you don't have to worry about dinging up anything while turning it, and sometimes it takes significant force. Use it from above or below, whichever is easiest. Here's a couple pics of what I use:
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...5&d=1170889116
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...6&d=1170889116
Step by step? OK.
Disconnect the WIF sensor harness. Just follow it from the bottom of the filter to the connector.
Place a container below the filter to catch the fuel you will drain from it (draining is not required, but a LOT less messy). Open the plastic thumbscrew drain valve at the bottom of the filter. If you have a piece of 1/4" hose laying around, it will slip onto the valve so you can direct the drain anywhere you want. Open/remove the top bleeder screw. Careful with this, it's plastic. Use a nut driver rather than a screwdriver to help prevent damage. Let it drain. Once the fuel stops draining, close the drain valve and remove your container. Immediately water-wash down any fuel that spills on the frame. The fuel will dissolve the wax coating, exposing bare steel to rust later.
Next, remove the filter. If it loosens by hand, all the better. It probably won't, so get the strap wrench on it and loosen until you can finish by hand. Be very careful with the WIF harness. Be sure it isn't between the filter and wrench when you loosen it. Once the filter is loose and out, inventory your seals. You will have a large O-ring and a grommet type seal. If the grommet isn't still attached to the center hole in the filter, fish it off the filter assembly nipple.
Replace the WIF sensor O-ring. Be careful with the fitting at the bottom of the filter, it's plastic. You can use a box wrench (don't know what size, but it's huge), water pump pliers (I don't recommend it, but I use it), or the best is a special wrench manufactured/sold by JK at www.kennedydiesel.com. Install the WIF fitting with the new supplied O-ring and some lube or grease. Don't overtighten, it's plastic and O-ring sealed.
Use some lube in the filter top groove to accept the large O-ring, and press the new O-ring into the groove. W/o lube or grease, the O-ring won't stay in place (holds a suction to keep it in). I use gear lube, but you can use axle grease, dielectric grease or motor oil. Thicker the better. Be sure the new rubber grommet is in the center hole of the filter top and smear some oil/lube on the inside.
Line up and thread the new filter onto the assy. Get it as tight as you can by hand. Some folks, like JK, stop there and say it works w/o leaking. I've never been so lucky. You can try it, but if you have "stalls after start", it's leaking and will either need the O-ring checked for proper install, or tighten it with the wrench. Again, be careful to not get the WIF sensor harness between the filter and wrench. Once it's tight, plug in the WIF harness and check the drain to be sure it's closed.
Open the top bleeder about 2-3 turns. Pump the primer until you see fuel (any squirt). Close the bleeder and pump again until it's hard (necessary to prime the HP pump). A LOT of pumping is not uncommon, like 100+ strokes.
Check for tools and start. A little RPM surging for about 30 seconds after start is normal while the system purges air. If it stays running and you don't have leaks, you're done. If you park it overnight (after being warmed up) and it starts then dies, you have an air leak. Loosen the filter and check the large O-ring. Make sure it stayed in the groove and retighten. Pump up the primer until hard and repeat starting.
That's it....I think. If I've left anything out, I'm sure someone will speak up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...spagenameZWDVW
I keep one of these and a spare filter in each truck, after nearly being stranded last winter when severe cold and poor quality fuel conspired to plug my filter. There are cheaper versions of this wrench around, this one also has a wide flat screwriver like tool machined into the opposite end for opening the bleeder valve easily.
At first I kept a filter wrench around, but have learned that if you simply tighten by hand, they don't leak and are easier to get on and off quickly that way. A pair of mechanix gloves added to your 'emergency kit' really helps as well for getting a better grip.
I have done two replacements while on the road, and its great peace of mind to have your kit bagged up and ready to go under the back seat, especially on I-90 in South Dakota 100 miles from nowhere, blowing snow and -20 temps...
Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick
Thanks for the info from the bote of yEE...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Rinker
:tiphat:
Much too long, here's the simplified version:
1. Drop the Passenger Inner fender
2. Unlpug the WIF sensor
3. Twist off the Old filter
4. Install new fuel filter & O-rings if applicable. Reconnect WIF sensor.
5. Open Bleed Screw and Prime w/ the Pump, close bleed screw
6. Crank engine, check for leaks
7. Re-install inner fender & Enjoy!
** On a site note ** Thanks Duramaster, I may try the intake-removal next time around. I hate those little plastic pegs you've gotta pull on the fenders.
I was wondering if they make a special tool for removing the pegs out of the keeper. Prying them with screwdrivers gets hard on the hands ..
Yes. I have one. The tool was designed for locksmithing as a wedge/door tool, but also pops the fasteners easily without damaging them. My brother is a locksmith and he turned me onto it. It's item #574967 and costs $12, wholesale. Call Foley-Belsaw at 1-800-821-3452. It may only be available to registered locksmiths (although it's not a security compromising tool), but I can get them through my brother.Quote:
Originally Posted by deerhunter7
Pictures:
Spray the stems with CRC spray dieselctric grease and they'll glide right out next time. I have a trim panel tool that works well too, but the lube thing is most important.Quote:
Originally Posted by deerhunter7
The only tool really required for the fuel filter service is the WIF sensor wrench. The rest should be do-able by hand. A strap wrench if the filter gets stuck, but hand should do it. And through the fender well is how I do it. In a pinch I have done them from above.
Be sure to only finger tighten the bleeder. No need to reef on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Rinker
Holy over priced tool Batman!
I'm sure it works well but Lisle make a comparable wrench that's commonly available for under $10 and can be bought on e-bay for around $6.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...QQcmdZViewItem
is the WIF sensor wrench a specialty tool?
Yes it is a specialty tool.
That's not saying you can't remove it with a pair of pliers but it's made of plastic and can easily crack. I think it's about $80 to replace the sensor.
Even a small crack could cause driveability issues as the fuel system is under vacuum at that point
may I ask where to purchase one....please :confused: :D
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1977_507486957Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. monte
Here's one outlet: Lisle 34350 ...
or Google Lisle Duramax sensor wrench
I also have one of these ... works great ...
:)
Is this approach the best for the 2002 duramax? thxQuote:
Originally Posted by DarylB
bump to top
Yes. Except between steps 5 and 6, after the bleeder is closed, it needs to be pumped up until hard. This should be for all year models. And, if you have a leak, you won't likely notice it unless the engine dies. The fuel system is suction from the tank to the HP pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by bradmd
I must be the only one and I'm sure someone will tell me I'm wrong, but I don't want to go in through the wheel well (too much dirt). There isn't room that I can find to maneuver the filter in around and through all of the a/c lines. What works best for me is removing the right side battery (Yes I do tape up the positive lead before going further). There are two leads and 1 nut that holds the battery in and then I have plenty of room not only above the filter, but to the outside where my hands, arms, and filter wrench fits fine. I can actually get both hands on the filter and rarely have to use the wrench anyway.
Works well for me and I have done it three times and not an air leak yet (I'm in trouble now).
Ed
Why bother removing the fender well at all? I just cut out an odd shaped panel to allow access to the fuel filter, (being careful not to hit any wires or tubes on the inside, out of sight) and then made a replacement cover for that opening out of good, stiff, but flexible plastic. Fasten back on with about 6 number 8 SS sheet metal screws, and you're in business for next time, and on and on. Again, being careful to drill and screw where you won't pierce anything you don't want to. I find this a whole lot easier than wrestling with the fender liner, especially with an electric screw driver.
DW:)
I finally checked my filter and drained the non-existent water from the bottom. (just a little humor, I was looking to see how clean the fuel was and if there was any water in the fuel.)
It took me all of about 3 minutes to remove the fender well, because I knew that I would be down there I cleaned the area the day before. I could have washed it the day of and just moved the truck to a new location so I wouldn't get wet/muddy. I do realize most of the posters here are not in sunny so. florida, so this is not an option.
I thought of removing the intake (and now the battery) but I actually thought I had more of a chance of messing things up - going from top-side.
I guess there multiple ways to skin the cat - er. Duramax...
Wow, I had a good laugh reading this post. Removing the fender well and specialty wrenches?? You're kidding right?? Why not remove the whole front clip, sheesh.:rolleyes:
One bolt on the battery tray clip, pull it and your done. Unplug the sensor, slide the filter wrench over the wire harness and go. 15 minutes to complete a fuel filter change.;)
busted up a few of the pegs that hold the fender liner in............anyone know the part # for these pegs that hold the fender liner in?
Thank you Hook_'em_Horns! This is the easy way for me.....take out the right hand battery. At least I'm not the only one. Ed
I bought a 2002 2500HD and there wasn't an owner's manual with it to show me how to change out the fuel filter. The info in this thread seems fairly clear but I'm a little afraid of messing something up because it appears I have plent of room to change the filter without removing fender skirts, etc.. Is there a place I can see some pictures of the fuel filter and it's location on a 2002 model? Am I just being to caustious and making a mountain out of a mole hill?
I have never gotten a wif alarm indicating that there would be water in the fuel. I probably have close to 10K miles on this filter.
Is there a rule of thumb for how often the filter should be changed?
Thanks for any help you can give. Sorry if the questions are dumb, not many mechanical skills here.
Knapper
Jack
The earlier the model, the more room there is. If you think you can do it w/o removing anything, go for it. I've replaced dozens of these on just about all models, and I can get them all from the top (some require a little assistance through the fender liner, like a 2003 CA model last week). Your 2002 should be easy to get to w/o removing anything. Do yourself a favor, though, and drain the filter before pulling it. If it's full, it'll spill fuel all over the place. Use a piece of hose that will fit over the water drain nipple and open it and the top bleeder. Drain into a suitable container. No mess! Don't forget to disconnect (then reconnect later) the WIF sensor harness. If it gets tangled in the works or your wrench, you'll be shopping for a new one.
Don't complicate it any more than you think you have to. Glean what you need from the above suggestions, and keep it simple.
I did mine from the top, did not remove anything, no help from anyone, piece of cake :D
I always remove the right hand battery. Two cables (yep I tape up the hot lead) and one bolt and out it comes. Then I have plenty of room and I'm not trying to work through the a/c lines. Ed
I can spin one off and spin one on by hand on any of our trucks in about 10 minutes now. Substitute Mechanix gloves for the filter wrench...:D I still like my overpriced WIF remover wrench. Have one in each truck, with a spare filter of course.
Thanks folks. Got it done today. A little learning curve but not a big chore.
Thanks for your help.
j
I'll add that I do all of mine without tools now. Hand tighten the filter and finger tighten the bleeder. Keep a strap wrench and nut driver handy in case you cannot remove by hand. Never use a screwdriver on the bleeder.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarylB
Quote:
Originally Posted by deerhunter7
Get a can of CRC spray dielectric grease and spray the pegs. They'll slide out like you wouldn't believe the next time...