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OK I got the new heads on with new injectors and glow plugs every thing back where it goes and it STILL will not start primed the pump to the filter pure fuel flowing out. NOTHING I am beyond aggravated with this engine batteries seem barely top turn it over even though I have charged them both not even a sputter!
Any Ideas?????
A couple issues are present.
Slow turning...
Make sure all the battery cables are in good order.
The side terminal cables can hide a myriad of corrosion in the rubber cover and where the cables are crimped to the terminal.
Make sure you have a good cross connection between the batteries and good voltage to the starter.
Be sure the ground cables are good as well.
High mile cables are suspect.
Having fuel to the filter is good.
Be sure to get the air free fuel to the Injection pump as well. (Top large hose at the IP)
Now/...
After a teardown the high pressure fuel lines are full of air as are the injectors.
The easiest way to purge the system is to remove the glow plugs and spin the engine with the plugs out.
This allows the fuel to purge the air from the lines and the injectors easily.
Also the starter and the batteries do not get beat to death.
Once you have the fuel to the IP then spinning the engine FREE should get fuel mist blowing from the open plug ports withing about 15-30 seconds of cranking.
Once the fuel is blowing out the ports, then replace the plugs and go for a start.
Engine will be a tad rough for a bit until all the air is finally purged out.
Good luck
I did all that you said. I never saw any mist from the glow plug holes but did get mist coming out of the exhaust with the turbo off. The cold is working against me at this point as it is damn cold and I am tired of messing with it as I have spend 2 months working on this project when I was not working. I will pick it back up once the weather is more favorable. Also would wd40 work as a starter fluid to try?
I don't believe I have a resistor in the PMD line what difference does it make and which one should I use a #5 or a #9? Does it make a difference how the pump runs?
If you do not know what resistor that was in the original pmd use a #5
If the lift pump is working, you have fuel to the IP and the fuel shutoff solenoid on top of the IP clicks on when you turn on the key the fuel should start huffing out the glow plug holes after 30 seconds of cranking after a dry start up.
I must be old school. I always cracked the injector lines one at a time to get the air out. I was told the air softened the line pressure and they would never get enough pressure to pop the injectors.
I heard the same. I cracked all of mine at the same time though. When they dripped, I tightened them back up and all was good.Quote:
Originally Posted by a5150nut
Loosening the lines (only) speeds the process, under normal "service" conditions. Cranking with the GP's removed allows for MUCH faster cranking, making the line loosening an extra step that shouldn't be necessary. Doing both is the best of both worlds, but is more messy and consumes more time. Cranking with air in the lines and GP's in will bleed the air, but takes longer than either method. Fuel pressure to the injectors increases and does not bleed down while cranking unless something is really worn out or broken (IP or injectors, or an upstream leak).Quote:
Originally Posted by a5150nut
That said, I do both when bleeding a dry system, and don't install the GP's until the lines are bled (and tightened) and fuel sprays from the GP holes.
This line jumped out at me. The 6.5L requires a rather high RPM during the cranking process for it to start. If the engine is turning over rather slowly, that will be most of your problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by gsimpson
How does the engine spin over with the glow plugs removed?
Listen to my engine starting at the beginning of this clip to hear how fast the engine should turn over:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ2J57p8_MA
If your engine is not spinning fast enough, checking the battery cables and starter condition is the first step.
Casey