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I just replaced my serpentine belt, idlers and had to order tensioner from GMC part number 9804201 when it arrived the box contained a Gates made tensioner and plastic pulley. Is this the correct replacement for the OEM tenioner or is GM getting cheap? Is there a metal pulley available? 04,LB7
RBrandt
Welcome to the board.
Always have your VIN handy when ordering one for your truck. GM changed the part(s) through time and model years.
My 2001 LB7's current belt tensioner is GM part number 97300857, having a retail price of $167.98, but I paid $132.29 with a discount. The pulley (GM part number 98072072), which comes with a new bearing, is available separately for about $22. I don't know if this part is the same as yours, but the pulley that came with the complete belt tensioner I bought in 2010 was made from steel.
In general, if your truck has more than 100K miles, it's likely a good idea to replace the complete tensioner assembly because it does wear out. I've replaced a few through the years on various vehicles.
Jim
I forgot to mention in my post in another thread that I did replace my serpentine belt, tensioner, and both idlers when I had a little over 100,000 on the truck as a precaution. I do have two alternators which is why I have two idlers. Now I have a spare belt with me if needed.
For the record, the removed belt looked perfect with no cracking at all, but it did have 100,000 on it. As others have said, new tensioner and idlers seems like a good idea to me.
my tesioner pully was not in stock when i needed it...bought the bearing and pressed it in the old pully....$@6.00
When it came time to replace the tensioner pulley, I replaced just the pulley and not the entire arm. I made sure it was made of steel and not plastic. It was rather inexpensive, too. $13.23. At the same time, I replaced an idler pulley and made sure it was steel, too. $21.79. both from Rock Auto.
You might see if you can return your entire new tensioner assembly and get just the steel pulley. They're super easy to replace.
If the tensioner has less than 100K on it, I'd agree that a new pulley might be a way to go. If over 100K, I'd replace the tensioner along with the bad pulley bearing. Open your hood sometime, and watch the tensioner work for just 30 seconds as the engine idles. Now, consider it doing that for 100K miles. The tensioner pivot wears out. I've replaced a couple on other engines because they locked up...Quote:
Originally Posted by jblather
Jim