C-30 frt end rebuild

This is basically an up-date of my previous thread, "spring removal"
Once the front-end O/H was completed, I wanted to get some photos together on the "Bucket", and it took a few tries over the past couple weeks, to accomplish it. A lot of these forums are about photos, so I thought I'ld share a few, for the 2 people that may be slightly interested. I don't know the protocol for posting pics, don't know how many is "too" many, and just don't have the time to do it all at once. So what I'll do is describe a short paragraph, then put up 2 or 3 pics, and see how it goes from there.
Here's a brief history, and a pic of the truck. 83 C-30 cab and chassis with a modified P/U bed installed, 6.2, and a 4 speed along with a Holmes 440 winch.
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6fbc485b.jpg

For some reason, I wasn't able to continue under the photo, so I'll have to take that into consideration while re posting.
Anyway, after about 20 yrs of ownership, (and 50K miles accumulated totaling 100K on top of the initial 50K when purchased @ 9 yrs old), the frt-end end became sloppy in a few areas. Because I own the truck, and it owes me nothing, I've decided to save it, and begin "another" resto-clean-up(?). The frt-end being the 1st area of attack. To be honest, my experience has only been on passenger car frt-ends, not a truck of this size. I was a bit apprehensive, and intimidated by the bulkier sizes, but loaded with some TDP advice, I dove in. The next few pics will be of the dis-assembly. Hopefully they'll take. I've tried downsizing at Phtobucket, but it just doesn't seem to work anymore
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps05e57dd7.jpghttp://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3483975a.jpg

The springs have remarkably little travel, so un-loading them wasn't as big a problem as I thought. But I did put some chains on them just in case. Now that the A-frames were out of the way, I was left with some grungy cross-member clean-up. ruined a couple pair of Dungaries that weekend. Nasty work.
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps45785521.jpghttp://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb35b585.jpg

Thanks for the update! And yes, pics are always appreciated (by both of us). Pictures and attachments here are fairly simple and straight forward. As a member here, you already have space available in our Photo Album (the link is at the top of every TDP forum page). You can upload your photos there, then link them into posts. You'll have 3 sizes to choose from, Thumbnail, Medium and Full/Large. Just give a holler if you want to use this feature and need help with it.

The next shots are of the lower ball joints coming out in the press, and the removal of the shaft and bushings on the lower control arms. The upper ball joints are removed by busting out the original rivets, (not shown), and then "simply remove the joint from the arm" . Yeh...right. There was one side that was pressed in, even W/O the rivets. It was a bear to remove. Same thing with installing the new one. Had to press it in place. I think the hole was undersized. (ya think?)
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2218c077.jpg
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3c98e02a.jpg

Once the arms were stripped, and all the greasy parts were cleaned, I put them out back and sandblasted the rust off them. Wanted to use some paint with some Umff to it, so I bought a quart of chassis black enamel, (already reduced). I painted everything the next morning, (Sun), cause I just flat ran out of time Sat. nite. Bad move painting in the morning, and planning on assy the same day. Paint was still tackey, and as hard to work with when it was greasy.
Because I didn't have a good way of pressing the lower ball joints in the press, had to resort to the OTC portable ball joint installer. needed a little height for the assy, but at least I didn't need to conjure up a jig for the press.
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9935f9bf.jpg
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...pse237349f.jpghttp://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7adfec08.jpg

I became a little worried when installing the control arm bushing kits, because they're (the bushings) not only threaded on the ID to the new shaft, but also threaded on the OD into the control arms. Fortunately the threads in the control arm weren't rotted out, and they went in fine. I imagine this area can be troublesome at times.
Once I bolted them back to the crossmember, it was tricky (1 person) trying to keep the top and bottom of the springs in there pockets, when raising the lower A-frame up into place with the jack. Helped to have my daughter work the jack on the 2nd side, while I held the spring in place.
I will admit, the area that I invented the "newest" 4 letter words was trying to slide that stupid wedge lock and spring assy for the brake caliper on 1 side. Just couldn't get it lined up. Must've spent almost 20 mins on this menial task. (Very frustrating).
I also measured the distances between the inner and outer tie rod centers at diss assembly, and installed the new ones to this dimension, to keep it close. Guess I didn't do that good a job, cause my steering wheel is off about 15*. I also replaced the upper control arm shims to their original position, but now my caster must be off a bit, cause it steers like it's on ice. Doesn't matter. Once my 2 new tires get here, have an alignment scheduled down the road.
So that's my story. boring but satisfactory that I saved some cash, and learned a few things. All in all, the job probably took me close to 25 hrs total, counting the cleaning, sandblasting, and painting. Hope at least 1 of you enjoyed my pain. i also hope no-one else to go through this experience too soon. If so, if nothing more, plan on trashing some shirts and pants, or maybe get some cheap cover-alls. :)
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...psfbed4245.jpghttp://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...psf62b51b0.jpg

So what's up with that? the very last picture decides to take the downsize.:confused: Computers. I'll never understand them.

I guess you made the photos more manageable Gregg. Good job.

My mistake. not even 2 interested.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joeq

My mistake. not even 2 interested.

---

About 100 individual lookers in a day isn't too bad. Well produced documentaries leave little remaining to discuss. Maybe you did too well.

Joe,
Thanks for sharing. It is really appreciated.
Dave

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

About 100 individual lookers in a day isn't too bad. Well produced documentaries leave little remaining to discuss. Maybe you did too well.

---

100! I don't know how you can tell that Gregg, but it's good to know. thanx for the compliment.
And I knew there was a Dave out there. Dave, you make 2, so how can I complain? I reached my goal.:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joeq

100! I don't know how you can tell that Gregg, but it's good to know. thanx for the compliment.

---

Chief cook and bottle washer around here. It's my job to know.

The columns in the forum pages show the "views". I can see those "views" that aren't publicly visible. It's not a secret, or anything, but not necessarily for public consumption. The "public" also includes some people (and non-people) who are not so nice. Once the thread is indexed by the search engines, the number will grow very quickly. It may be advantageous to select a thread title that is "Google friendly", in that, it's more appealing to Google searchers and more likely to get a click from those interested. One simple addition could be, "-with pictures", for example. Google searchers love pictures. You can also add tags to your thread, which can also increase hits.

Quote:

---

And I knew there was a Dave out there. Dave, you make 2, so how can I complain? I reached my goal.:)

---

Never had a doubt.

If you have more details or more pictures that may be helpful, please add them. Many of our well-documented threads end up as a sticky, or could become a tech article, which defines our reason for meeting here.

Just went through the garage for an alignment, and have a couple new tires mounted and balanced.
The mechanic told me the frt end was almost in tolerance. the caster and camber were both in limits, but the toe was off some. When I pulled the A-frames down, I tied, labeled and stored the shims, and re-installed them to their same location. when I set up the inner and outer tie rods, I set the centers the same as the worn out originals. must've missed a little cause that was off a bit.
So now, the truck feels like new. Frt end is tight and quiet, new tires. New exhaust. Rebuilt the motor about 50K miles ago. (Almost 15 yrs ago). At the same time, put in a new clutch and inj. pump. Replaced the tanks less than 10 yrs ago. Can't wait to start fixing up all the rusty sheet-metal, and put some paint on it.
Till this day, I still can't believe for the life of me, no one makes replacement floor panels that'll go frt to rear, all the way under the seat.
That's my next mission. To reweld in some new floors. I'll keep you 2 guys in the loop, if you want. Enjoy the day people.

Sounds good.

I do the same when replacing tie rod ends. Center to center. Still, it's only right about 1/2 the time. Some due to previous semi-worn-part alignments, others due to different forgings of the ends, even if the same brand. If you get it close, the drive to the alignment shop is usually a short one.

Where are you sourcing your floor pans? Have you looked at LMC Truck?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

Where are you sourcing your floor pans? Have you looked at LMC Truck?

---

That's one of the vendors, Gregg, and about 2 or 3 more. None of them offer pans for these years, front to back. Only in front of the seat. Pitafull if you ask me. I'm sure here in the North East, there's a HUGE market for full length pans. It just totally baffles me. Unless some-one has a patent on them, and I don't know who it is.