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Another observation - of many:
Today I had work done on my son's 2004 S10 Blazer. According to the tech, the fuel filter was "severely restricted" and "the junk that came out of it was black." We recently bought this truck with 150K on it. Aside from poor mileage, the truck was running fine. It was probably the stock OEM filter... :eek:
The comparison to a 4.3L gasser stops there, but consider if the Blazer's ECM was concerned with rail pressure enough to set a check engine light and limp the truck. The fuel filter would have been changed long, long ago.
In my thinking, GM engineers and EMC programmers have stepped on it with on this one, because their test mules didn't consider the myriad of circumstances can cause low rail pressure, including but not limited to:
- Restricted fuel filters (obvious and purposeful cause for the limp)
- Crimped, collapsed, or restricted fuel lines
- Hot, thin fuel
- Weak or work injectors
- Weak or worn pump
- High fuel demand, combined with one or more of the above!!!
#6 will almost always be a transient condition - where the limp mode is counter-productive to driveability...i.e. stranding a loaded 5-er on some grade climb out of Denver. NOT GOOD.
The sooner somebody programs around the limp, and sets the SES as an 'informational' message, the better. Just like the venerable LB7s...run until they choked.
My .03 worth!
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Looking for help
I just replaced my FPR valve today. My 2001 has had the idle funk for a long while and I was getting tired of it. I read all I could before tackling it. Now that it's done and I know and have the right tools I think I could do it again in an hour or two. I happened to have one of those long 90 degree screwdrivers for adjusting the carbs on motorcyles. What a life saver that was. Still managed to drop a screw in the valley. Ended up going to Lowe's and replacing them all with hex cap screws even though I still have 2 of the originals. Didn't remove the bridge. Just the neg. batt cables, A/C compressor, alternator wire, three electric connects, water housing, hard piped water, and two fuel hoses. Acces wasn't easy with fat paws. My Craftsman 1/4" drive ratch wasn't of the fine tooth type but it worked.
The bracket that attaches to the driver side valve cover to hold the hard water pipe has a bolt under a huge wiring harness. I removed the bracket to get the pipe out of the way. After I installed the new FPR I started the truck to make sure it would start before re-attaching this bracket and filling the radiator. It started fine. No hiccups. I smiled!!! In order to get that bolt back into the bracket under that wire harness I flipped the gray lever which unplugs that harness and allowed me to move it slightly, enough to get the bolt started. Like a dummy, I forgot to flip the gray lever again which locks the harness in contact. I jumped in to start it again after buckling everything back up except this gray lever. The truck wouldn't start. I got worried. Then it dawned on me I forgot to flip the gray lever and plug that harness back together. It started after doing so but now the Service Engine Light is on. I tried undoing the batteries hoping it would reset. It hasn't. Any recommendations?
BTW, the idle funk is gone. Yippee!!!
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To reset codes, disconnect BOTH batt+ cables and ground one to chassis (the cable, NOT the battery). Or, if you already have both battery ground cables disconnected, jumper a ground to a batt+ cable. In either case, the battery power must be disconnected, as if the batteries weren't in the vehicle. Come back after 30 minutes and reconnect. The computer should be reset. Some may work in less than 30 minutes, but that's the shortest time I've had reliable success. If you don't ground the cable, it can take overnight, or longer, to reset. Just did one this morning. It clears all computers, TCM and BCM as well (essential after ABS or SRS faults, which take a really looooong time to self-clear).
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Thanks
Thanks Maverick! That worked! Light is out. Why I waited 2 years or more to do this I'll never know. It's like have a new truck again.
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For the LBZ's out there plagued with the P0087 I believe with reasonable certainty that I have conquerred it. Still need to test this with an on road vehicle, but I fixed on a Pull truck yesterday. This truck has dual CP3's and freshly tested/calibrated performance injectors.
This will be available in my Kennedy Custom ECM Programming. LMM still work in progress.
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I believe I have the same issue as Mark, I have an 09 with 100,000 miles that I just got back from the dealer with a diagnosis of bad injectors due to high return flow. They tested the high pressure pump and it passed so they assume injectors. Please contact me if you have found a way around replacing the injectors.
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I'm doing a LBZ tune for a shop in IL that has several different Dmax trucks sitting sidelined due to chronic P0087 code issues. I should know more soon.
This issue kicked my ass on the dyno the other day, but eventually I prevailed.