Printable View
Iv got a 1976 k10 with a 350 motor and and turbo 350 trans I am in the process of getting a 1995 z71 with a 6.5 diesel in it and I’m wanting to do a swap it’s got motor trans and everything but what would be the best way to do it keep my trans and bolt it on it or put that motor and trans in my truck?
And what would I need to do the swap I have the donor truck but what issues will I run into and what would be the best way to do the swap?
Cool swap! I've done two diesel swaps into the old square body trucks myself: a 1977 K5 Blazer and a 1981 C20 truck.
First off, for simplicity's sake, I would recommend swapping the engine only and converting it to a mechanical fuel injection pump. The 1995 model is equipped with an electronic DS4 injection pump that is problematic and requires a computer for the engine to run. You would have to swap the computer and complete wiring harness in order to make the engine run in its current configuration. However, a mechanical DB2 pump, such as used on 1993 and older engines, will be a direct bolt-on. You will need the injection pump and injection lines. This only requires one wire for operation. You will also need a throttle cable, since the original engine is drive-by-wire. Swap everything else from the engine compartment, including serpentine drive system and components, radiator, hydroboost brake system (since the diesel does not provide vacuum for the current gasoline engine equipped brake booster).
I would also recommend using your existing 350 tranny and transfer case. Again, the transmission in the 1995 is computer controlled, and would be a hassle to make operate in the older truck. Also, the transfer case in the 1995 will have a driver's side output for the front shaft, whereas your K10 has a passenger side output.
Casey
Hi
So are either of the trucks 4X4?
The first issue is the donor truck is computer controlled.
So are you going to keep the computer,if so then you could use the trans from the donor truck.
The 350 in the 76 will not last long behind the diesel without some work.If you are going to ditch the computer,then you should look for a Turbo 400 at least to put behind the diesel.If you are going to ditch the computer you will need to find a mechanical injection pump complete with lines.Your best bet will be to try and find one from a 92 6.5 which is a 4911 pump the lines are specific to the era pump.A pump from a 90's 6.2 will work with it's lines as well.The pump for the 6.5 is a little bigger.
The nice thing is the motor mounts and bell housing are the same on GM's.
You will need to find a good rad to put in the 76 i would spring for a aluminum racing one.
That's a start,you will have to decide if you are going computer controlled or not.Going computer controlled will be a lot of work,and quite frankly you will end up with a frankin truck with inherent troubles.
Going Mechanical injection will simplify the swap.
And you should spend a little time on the donor engine to make sure it is worth the effort to give it a new home.
Both trucks are 4wd and what years did they not have computers?
And where can I get one of those mechanical injection systems?
1994-2000 6.5L, electronic computer controlQuote:
Originally Posted by ajprui1567
1992-1993 6.5L, mechanical
1982-1991 6.2L, mechanical
The 6.2L and 6.5L are very similar, and the external parts such as injection pumps will swap between them. The 6.2L injection pumps are calibrated for less fuel delivery than the 6.5L, but the difference isn't that great.
Lots of places to purchase mechanical systems. For new, start by checking with some of The Diesel Page supporters:
http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm
You will also find lots of used items on eBay, etc. Just beware when purchasing used, as you can't tell what condition the pump will be in. Factor in the cost of having the pump remanufactured just to be safe.
Casey
If I do chose to go with the computer how much work would it be putting it in? Like where would I hook things up? What all would have to be done to be able to use everything from the 1995 truck?
My advice: don't even think about it. Those of us with the factory electronic systems dream of replacing them with the mechanical systems. The DS4 has its share of issues, such as a PMD (pump mounted driver / AKA fuel solenoid driver) that has a rather short life span, and is a few hundred dollars every time it needs replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by ajprui1567
Casey
I have bought brand new Military pumps on eBay cheep.They are 24v.You have to switch the shutoff solenoid.
I used one when i switched my 98 6.5 from electronic fuel injection to mechanical.
You should get the motor pulled first and do some inspection work on it to make sure it is worth putting in a project truck.
Unless you know the person that owned the truck last and can verify any work they did,you should take off the pan and check the block for cracks.Depending on the mileage on the motor changing the head gaskets while it is out is a good move.Then you will be able to check the condition of the heads,precups and #8 cylinder.
And do a bunch of reading on this site using the search function.There isn't to much that hasn't been talked about on here.
Bottom line...
Don't even think about using the electronic setup in the early truck.
The electronics were a nightmare when they were new and everything was working as it should (Many never did work well.
As mentioned REPLACE the injection pump with a mechanical DB2 unit.
You will need to scare up a set of 92-93 injector lines from the 6.5 as the lines from the DS4 will not connect to the DB2 pump.
The injectors will also need to be from the 92-93 6.5 (Different pop pressure)
Depending... You can use the 4L80 auto trans if equipped, but you will need a tranny controller (Many great stand alone units available)
The TH350 can be used but you will need a vacuum control valve to run the modulator on the 350.
Mids 80's 6.2 trucks had these to run the mod on the TH400 and this will work sweet.
The 6.5 should have a vacuum pump and this will suffice to supply vacuum to the the HVAC in the truck if need be.
Use the trucks ignition 12 volt source to turn the injection pump on.
Wire in the older style sensor control that screws into the RH head rear water port to run the Cold advance and the fast idle.
The 82 and later square body trucks were available with the 6.2 and the radiators are quite suitable (Or a new replacement)
The stock radiator from the 350 V8 is waaaaaaay too small to deal with the diesel.
Some 78-81 trucks had the 5.7 Olds diesel so its possible that the core support maybe usable to fit in the bigger radiator..
Glow plugs can be driven using a Ford starter relay and a manual momentary switch (push button)
Simple setup wired direct to the batteries and the relay heavy lugs wired to the glow plug leads.
You will need to scare up an extra battery box for the truck as it take two good batteries to crank the diesel.
Custom exhaust is pretty straight forward.
If you go with the TH350 trans you should use a TH400 converter from a big block (454) to handle the diesel.
You need an electric fuel pump that delivers no more than 5 psi and about 30 gpm
Also needed is a good fuel return line system as well.
The stock 6.5 fuel filter is sketchy at best.
Install a nice Racor 230R2 fuel manager to deal with the fuel.
Plenty of room in the engine bay to locate the filter.
BRAKES
If the truck had a vacuum brake booster you will need to install a hydro boost unit in place of the vacuum booster.
These are plentiful and were used in any of the 80's diesel pickups and Burbs.
The air filter set up will need to be fabricated or at least some adaptation done to use the set up from the later donor rig.
A sweet project, but not a drop in and go.
Cooling system.
Use the stock serp setup that's on the 6.5
Make sure to use the fan shroud from the 6.5 truck.
You must use the oil cooler, or similar, so a stock type diesel radiator is not a bad deal.
A remote oil cooler is a good deal if the radiator does not have one...same with the tranny cooler.
The stock radiators on the diesels (later rigs) had a coolant tank on the firewall that has the fill cap and a hose that feeds the lower radiator hose.
An earlier style diesel radiator with the cap on the radiator can be used readily.
Be sure to use a properly vented fuel cap.
That's a good start for ya.