Installing new hydroboost/master cyl/wheel cyls

Going to, install a new hydroboost, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders tonight..or at least begin the project. Long story short, it pays to do things right the first time, not the second time like I am about to begin.

So I am just looking for some tips/tricks if anyone has any to offer, because I am just diving in with my Chiltons manual in hand.

Thanks.

Its a pretty straight forward job.

The only nasty parts are the two upper inside nuts on the Hydroboost that are up under the dash.

A real Beotch to get to, plus they are a locking nut to add insult.

Once you get the booster loose, its a snap.

If your new/reman booster did not come with a actuator rod, you will need to use your old one.

The mounting plate on the back (fastens the thing to the firewall) will probablt need to come off your old one.

The nut on the back of the booster takes a special socket. I have done these with a sharp chissel and a hammer :eek: but the socket makes life far easier :)

Once you get the system bolted back together, bleed out all the old brake fluid (all around) so you start with a clean system.

Not all that bad of a job, and once done, you should be trouble free for a fair amount of time.

Good luck


Missy

Thanks Robyn,
I started the job last night was just logging in to post some questions, all of which you have answered. For just a piece of iron attached with a few bolts, it is one of the worst jobs I have done on my truck yet. Those two bolts under the dash were horrible, and there was a few electionic parts in the way that had to be removed, one of which was equally horrible.

I tried the chisel trick last night with no success--it was becoming too destructive. It looks like the retainer nut has been punched at that groove near the back of the cylinder where the actuator arm is. After I quit last night, I thought about running a drill bit down that groove to chew out where the nut has been smashed into the groove. I should go buy the socket, it will help in tightening the new one as well.

Once I am past this hurdle, like you say it should be a snap. Now that I know the best way to go after those bolts under the dash, putting the new one should take about half the time as removing the old one.

Thanks again.