no fuel to injectors with ds4

I hooked everything up on my engine and am trying to test fire. most everything is new
heres what ive tested so far.

elec fuel pump/ good
shut off solenoid/ good
glow plugs and controler/ good

I've tried a few crank sessions with both injector lines at the front "both sides" cracked open, no fuel has come weeping out?

The injection pump has fuel in it I.E. it's been run on this engine before I got it. Brand new engine run for about 5000 miles and put in storage. I now am trying to get it up and running nearly 10yrs later.

it's the 97 engine for my blazer project...

Also wondering if this thing will run with no accelerator pedal plugged in? I dont have one for this engine yet but I can use the one out of my pickup if I need to..

I just want to do a little shake down run to make sure everythings in order..

ofcause you need the pedal, its like trying shifting your tranny without the stickshift in it

Without the PPS (Pedal posisition sensor) hooked up the ECM will not allow a start as there would be no control of the fuel.

Everything on the rig has to be hooked up for the DS4 to opperate.

Hope this helps

Robyn

thanks!! I'll give that a go, I'm very excited now!!

ok I tried a few crank sessions with the pedal plugged in, I got a little weep from injector #2 but haven't got fuel to any others.

I had one plug with 5 wires that I traced

1 for the glow plug light "does work" no problems there.

1 that goes to the oil pressure switch, no voltage present when on or start. I originaly thought it was to power fuel pump relay but now ??

1 wire that goes to pin 14 on the ECM blue block 32pin connector
I'm thinking this is the signal for the "check engine light"?

2 wires that go to the speedo pickup at the t-case tail housing

Mabe I'm missing something? or maybe I just have air in system that needs to bleed out?
does the oil pressure switch need power?
pin 14 need some voltage?

manually turn on fuel pump...(jump out)
disconnect glow circuit
bleed out filter, bleed out water purge, bleed to inlet on pump
keep pump running 1 hr
break all lines on drivers side (and wherever you can get to!)
crank like hell... 30 seconds max...(5-10 minute breather) gonna take some time
when they all get wet and weepy tighten them up
reconnect glow circuit
fire away

good luck we've all been there!

well I gave it several crank sessions all injectors cracked until the lift pump stoped making noise!! so I give up for today. Doesn't seem like like it should take this much to get fuel to the injectors. must be something else..

The lift pump needs to make noise all the time....It will get louder with less output.

Did you jump it out manually? Dont rely on the OP or computer to do it right.

I replaced all my injector lines one year....it took forever to get fuel to weep out.

At this stage of the game you might want to remove the glows as to not kill the starter.

Any white smoke form the tail pipe?

If all the wiring is connected correctly the system should be up and ready in only a few minutes.

You need to bleed the air from the filter and the lines so that you have clean air freee fuel coming to the IP.
At this point crank the engine. Fule should start coming out the injector lines within only a few moments.

**SECRET*** remove the glow plugs during the initial spinup.
With the glow plugs out the engine spins very easy and will get fuel to the injectors fast.

Once you have clouds of fuel mist blowing from the glow plugs holes your set.

Install and hook up the glow plugs and then go for a startup.

The engine should start fairly quick.
The initial few minutes will be a little rough as the final amounts of air are purged from the system and things settle in.

When starting with a dry IP and all the lines etc dry it can take a lot of time to get things up and flying.

Be sure to get air free fuel to the IP before cranking the engine though

Best

Robyn

I did have the lift pump jumped out on an switched acc. lead from the new wiring harness in the jimmy. I left it on and it got pretty hot until it just stopped. It was a cheapie fuel pump anyway, but it had the correct flow rate.

I will remove glowplugs next time I have a go at it!! I have a bleeder valve on the thermo cross over and I did let out a pint of fuel. I was just watching for fuel to come running down the injectors where I cracked the lines..

heres some pics, as you can see I have pretty easy access.!!

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ginebay001.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ginebay002.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ginebay003.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ginebay004.jpg

jeezus! you have acess galore!

Stay at it! Robyn has given you some good tips...looks like your starting with new lines (injection) so it could take a while.

be patient looks like its not your daily driver anyway by the look of the access ports!

Well I gave it another 2hrs worth of cranking sessions with the glow plugs removed... I got a good amount of fuel comming from injector line 7 initialy but none of the others seemed to fall in line.

I replaced the lift pump with a new carter unit and got it going, bled out about a half gallon of fuel to purge the lines..

My thoughts are maybe I'm not giving it enough power.. I'm using a single optima yellow top with a battery charger attached to keep the batt topped off..

All the ecu harness grounds go right back to the batt negative so I don't thats an issue.

I'm at a loss for now..

2 good batts will deff help to attain cranking speed to start,but for getting fuel to the inj it should not be a problem.

are you 100% sure all wires and connections are good?

Is the PMD known good?

Why was the engine put in storage? running issue ?or a cratered vehicle? What is the complete history?

A new engine dont mean a new IP as well. The IP itself could be the culprit.Maybe the Fuel solenoid is sticking (gummed up)after sitting for so long? Might be time to at least have the IP tested.

I never had a problem bleeding and starting a 6.5 engine i have rebuild or changed fuel components on within 5 min

well this is a factory brand new motor and components with very little milage, about 5000. it was used for this
http://www.millenworks.com/html/ligh...navItemIndex=4
they pulled the motor "after trials" to test an electric drivetrain..

I checked the grounds and gave it a few more tries, still no luck...

I have a mechnical 5209 pump as a back up, I just need to figure out how to run the 4l80e.

I would try using two batteries. It takes 100 rpm cranking before the computer will allow the IP to send fuel to the injectors.

yeah keep the charger on whilst you crank away also!

well I can't figure it out, so I'm changing the plan of attack!!

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...kenginebay.jpg\

could have been the pmd or an assorment of other issues as I was finding out via research. there is my back up plan. can anyone point out all the things I will need to make this work? I am finding that the throttle bracket will need to be modified, and somehow I will need to make trans work..

The new pump is a db831-5209
The trans is a 97 4wd

whooo hooo!! runs like a brand new engine!!

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...nginebay-1.jpg

very nice. sounds very healthy. that is a sweet project. :D