"Rust" in fuel filter.

I Just changed my fuel filter. Old filter had 9665 miles on it. Truck now has 38,879 miles.
I took the old filter apart by notching the outer edged with a pair of tin snips. Pulled outer edge away from plastic housing and removed filter element from housing shell. I noticed RUST colored granular particles in the bottom of the filter housing. What is this? Filter paper was black on the lower half and sides where it flows down from above.
I counted number of pumps on the primer with new filter. It took fourty pumps until a small amount of fuel came from bleed screw. Started and ran fine the first time. (No need to pre-fill the new filter) I'll attempt to ad photos once I figure it out. (any suggestions would be great) :confused:

I did not have to pump that many times to get fuel to come out of the set screw. Maybe 15-20 at most. Sounds like you got some bad fuel somewhere, hate to think it is coming from your fuel lines. At least you know the filter is stopping the big stuff.

A 'black' fuel filter element can be indicative of having had microbial contamination or a significant amount of dead bodies from a contamination.. As for the rust colored; it is very likely corrosion. Welcome to our "separated water in diesel fuel club". All diesel fuel has some level of entrained water. Which is why John Kennedy and I use agressive emulsifying fuel additive, all the time. If not, one *will* experience exactly what you have: free water, rust/corrosion and a wonderful petri dish for microbes to flourish in. Some microbes can double in size in 20 minutes, given the right conditions: darkness, warmth, water and diesel fuel....
George Morrison, STLE CLS

I had that orange gunk in my fuel filter the first time I changed it at 21,000 miles. I changed it for the second time last Saturday at 41,000 miles and there was no orange gunk. There was also no water, and the filter element appeared to be about 75% used.

How does this "water in fuel" relate to us northerners. It was -28C last night and is going to stay that way until spring. Is all this talk of microbes/algea/water a warm weather issue only? At what temp/conditions does it become an issue?

I too have been struggling with fuel filters. (see "apetite for fuel filters")
I just this morning cut open my last filter which had only 2900mi. on it and found it to be 100% black with a black tar "mud" on it. I think I have joined the "alge in the fuel tank club" :( I live in the Northeast and we have been in the artic cold front for two weeks. I guess the microb's die off with the cold and plug things. :rolleyes: ( Help George ? )

Regards,
Chris

George could tell you more, but I don't think these organisms can survive below freezing, and definitely cannot exist in diesel fuel itself. There has to be free water present...

John, could you help me ? :D

I am trying to clear my fuel system.
I have used Power Service on all my heavy & light duty diesel's for 18+ years with good results. I would guess that after a period of running that the frozen water could thaw and become mobile in system. Is there a product that you sell to eliminate microb's, and if not is there one that one could use to emulsify the water so it can be eliminated?
Thanks,
Chris

I live in NH also and believe I have the same problem. I just started (after symptoms started) using the additive combo that JK uses/sells.
My questions are
#1 is the fuel heater enough to create the warmth the microbes need even when it is cold??
#2 can I add the "Bug Killer" while I am running the other additives in there??

Thanks
SledZep

technician,

I hate to make an assumption, but one would think that sub freezing temps should croak off anything in your tank, but probably not in a below ground storage tank.

Aside from that, Killem should nuke anything living. Seems to have done it for Johhny C.

I replied to your email as well.

Thanks for all the help and information! (I did not mention, no signs of water from the filter when I dumped the contents into a clean can) I will look for the biocide at my local dealers. If they don't have it I will order it on-line from JK. It's cold here now so I guess this should help clear up any problems in there(?)(yes/no any thoughts or do I need to do anything else?). Thanks again everyone.....Luis

Unfortunately, even prolonged sub-zero weather (which we are currently experiencing in Ohio) will not "kill" most microbe/algae infestations. They may slow down, they may go dormant, but as soon as the infected fuel gets into our Duramax and its good warm fuel return line, bingo, back in action once again to grow and propigate as only microbes can do! I have had 15 fuel analysis results reporting badly contaminated fuel in the past 2 weeks in vehicles. These trucks sit out in sub-zero at night and were going through a fuel filter every other day in some cases; thinking it was fuel clouding. Instead it was the old black curse: microbes.. And yet the tank from which several of the infected vehicles were serviced checked OK for microbes!
In a word, no, we are not safe from microbial contamination even in sub-zero weather...Primrose 409 or FPPF all the time to prevent free water buildup and a home for microbes to grow.
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Tips

"Diesel fuel can fall victim to several contaminants, which may clog the fuel filter and in time harm the engine. The most common of these impurities are known as tar and asphaltines, as well as the by-product of algae and bacteria colonies. Tar and asphaltines occur naturally in diesel fuel. Algae thrive in the murky area between water and diesel fuel. Condensation in the fuel tank can come on gradually during temperature changes, as well as fuel level changes. By-products of these algae will travel into the fuel filters. The tank should be filled with fuel before a period of inactivity or off-season storage to reduce the condensation in the fuel tank.

When left out of service for more than a few weeks diesel fuel becomes stagnant and begins to deteriorate. When storing the vehicle for more than six weeks the fuel should be treated with fuel conditioners. Contact the engine manufacturer for recommendations. If the coach is not going to be driven for more than 30 days, use a fuel stabilizer. Fill the fuel tank to half, pour in the additive, and finish filling the tank. The engine and any other diesel powered system, such as the generator and heating system, should be operated long enough for the treated fuel to run through all the components. Avoid alcohol-based additives. Alcohol may dissolve the filter elements. While more than one additive can be put into the fuel tank, keep in mind that only the problem needs to be treated."