tires

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07-14-2006, 15:50
ISEEDIT

Advice: leveling trk with 285/60-18 wheels/tires

I'd like to level out my new truck (some rubbing on mud flaps when turning hard and think cranking up the front end could solve the problem) and have read here about you guys doing this. Could you explain (again) what it is and how to do it? Do the head lights need realineing? Also, these tires are about the same size (diameter) as 265x16's, can a tech ll (or what ever a dealer would have) recalibate to that size? What will that do as far as the calulating the MPG's and spedo' on the trk computer.
This is on a new "06 LZB DMax crew cab 4X4 short box with 285/60-18 nitto rubber.
Thanks for your help.
07-17-2006, 06:48
ISEEDIT

No help ?

Wow . . where is everyone? please some help or advise . . . .
thanks
07-26-2006, 00:58
Buck

WOW! I can't beleve they rub. What kind of rims have you got? You must be running 9" wide rims?

You can just crank up the torsion bars a bit. Keep track of the number of turns you go up and do the same number of turns on the other side.
07-26-2006, 06:24
Heartbeat Hauler

Well the tires may be the same diameter, but they are about 4 sizes wider which is probably where the rubbing is coming from. When turning your torsion bars up I would go in increments, i.e. 2 turns each, drive it for awhile, then if you like it cool, if not two more turns. This allows you to keep the truck geometry as close to stock as possible and still run those size tires. If you crank'em all the way the truck will be level, but you put some strain on the components and your ride will deteriorate. I believe Cognito offers a leveling kit for the Silverado, but it ain't cheap or easy to install.
JP
08-03-2006, 21:59
Duramax D

Leveling Kit From Total Performance

Hello, I'm new to this site but have performed many upgrades to my Chevy trucks. To address your question, I installed a 2" lift kit from totalperformanceonline.com This kit took about 4 hours to install and usually requires a wheel alignment when completed. This should give you enough lift to enjoy rub free riding in your truck. The ride does get a bit stiffer but it is recommended that you do not turn the torsion adjusters above the stock adjustment. Hope this helps.
08-04-2006, 08:28
kburati

A lift is unnecessary but I agree not turning torsion bars up. Rather replace the keys, fairly cheap. Not sure how to do it but here's a link to some:

http://levelingkits.generalspringkc.com/gm.html

Others on this board have taken this approach, not me so I don't have first hand experience.
08-04-2006, 10:55
DmaxMaverick

Quote:

Originally Posted by kburati

A lift is unnecessary but I agree not turning torsion bars up. Rather replace the keys, fairly cheap. Not sure how to do it but here's a link to some:

http://levelingkits.generalspringkc.com/gm.html

Others on this board have taken this approach, not me so I don't have first hand experience.

If all you do is replace the keys, you only gain more adjustment. Replacement keys are only necessary if you run out of adjustment on the OEM's. They are identicle, except for the index of the hex. The ONLY thing that happens by adjusting the keys, whether OEM or aftermarket, is provide more or less preset twist on the torsion bars.
08-05-2006, 07:25
Kennedy

Quote:

Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick

If all you do is replace the keys, you only gain more adjustment. Replacement keys are only necessary if you run out of adjustment on the OEM's. They are identicle, except for the index of the hex. The ONLY thing that happens by adjusting the keys, whether OEM or aftermarket, is provide more or less preset twist on the torsion bars.

EXACTLY!

So many buy keys or the fancy indexable keys that they do not need. A key is nothing more than a lever used to preload the torsion bar. Different degrees apply more or less preload which affects ride height...
08-17-2006, 19:27
FBJR

I just cranked mine up last night for 295/70-17 on 17-8 rims with 4.5 (standard) backspacing.

Went 5 turns and still have at least an inch of down travel.

I had to trim the lower front bumper valance on both sides about 1.5 inches. Knocked the well area back about 1/4 inch at the center plastic rivet which contours the whole area.

The hardest part was the inner front wheel wells that I had to heat up and bend forward then allow to cool.

Works great with no rubbing at all.

I have the Contigo kit but won't be needing it now :D

FB