Learning the new 2017....

Finally got it- 2017 DMax in a 2500HD, DBL cab & long box. Now it's time to familiarize myself with it. Looks like the fuel filter is below, and between the frame rails (according to the owner's manual)? And uses an element only (not a spin-on filter like the LB7s)? Huh? I thought it was just above the passenger wheel well (at least that's what my dealer's service writer told me, as he has the 2016 with the filter in that location). If an element only, it's reminiscent of the 6.5 GM diesels of the 90s.

Also, I see a radiator element that resides just under the grill, center of the bumper (opening near the center of the bumper). This thing is exposed- no protection from road debris. Is this correct and what cooler is this for? I'm uncomfortable with the exposed radiator fins- I hope there's an aftermarket screen/shield for it.

I've got a couple of free oil changes coming, but thereafter I'm on my own dollar. Naturally, GM recommends their own brand of oil but still specifies the CJ-4 standard and now, the dexos2 designation. What about the Delvac or Rotella synthetics? I'll have to look further.

Not excited about the DEF tank hanging down so low. Also looking to put a hood protector on the front edge, but wondering if it will negatively impact the air induction at the intake built into the hood?

MyLink electronics seems like something that will easily distract your attention from where it should be: on the road! Transfer case skid plate seems cheap and flimsy compared to my '01. I'm sure I'll find something more to gripe about. Now the comes the "personalizing" (i.e., more $$$).

Any input will be appreciated.

I've been researching and dealing with the dexos2 oil thing for a few years, and have found that there's not much in the way of compatibility alternatives. That is, if you stick to the strict recommendation. dexos2 is primarily 5W-30, full-synthetic (not to be confused with "fully" synthetic, such as Penzoil, Castrol, etc.), special packaged (additive package), engine oil. Other viscosities are "compatible", but are recommended only for specific climates and use. There are very few brands that actually state they are "dexos2 compatible". Mobil Super 3000 XE 5W-30 being the only one I could source economically (others available, primarily European, but at higher cost to get than what the dealer sells). I don't know that I would venture outside the recommendation, at least during the warranty period, including the emission system warranties. Start looking now, if you intend to source it yourself. Prior to the 2017 full-size light truck introduction, the only requirement for the oil was for the small Diesel applications (Cruze, Colorado/Canyon), so I suspect the oil suppliers will respond to the market, hopefully sooner than later. The dealer price for their labeled dexos2 was about $9/qt, with the Mobil in case volume a bit less ($7-8). Local parts chains were no help, and still don't list any. At least you have a couple changes before you have to worry about it. Good luck!

BTW....
Congrat's on the new ride!

Congratulations, nothing like getting a new toy.
If you could please Post some pics of it and the fuel filter location and also the DEF tank if you get the time.
Thanks and Enjoy !

Looking forward to seeing some pics!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chessy56

Also, I see a radiator element that resides just under the grill, center of the bumper (opening near the center of the bumper). This thing is exposed- no protection from road debris. Is this correct and what cooler is this for? I'm uncomfortable with the exposed radiator fins- I hope there's an aftermarket screen/shield for it.

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Thats the trans cooler. No need for a shield or screen.

I want to know how that beast pulls hills with a heavy trailer hooked up to it.
And what kind of fuel mileage it gets.
I needs to gets me one, but I just can't's afford it right now.

just got done looking over the owners manual, maybe I'm missing something but it looks like the Dexos 2 oil is for the 4 cylinder. under "choosing the right engine oil" for the 6.6 it says to use CJ-4. 15-40 just like before. this was on page 95 of the owners manual I downloaded.

Still learning more about this thing. SDakDmax: I noted the same thing when looking further at the Diesel supplement which essentially only calls out the CJ-4 spec, which leads me to think that the Delvac or Rotella synthetics should be OK for use. I've used them exclusively on my '01 LB7 which now has 437K+ and there appears to be no internal issues reported by the tech who's had that engine apart twice (ouch:$$$)! This is a runner from Wisconsin to Indiana on a weekly basis, so I doubt that it will be towing heavy loads in the immediate future- however, retirement looms and you never know. 2 weeks in and it's at just over 1500 miles.

I'm attempting to attach some pics. It appears that the fuel filter resides inside the frame rails, driver's side, just in front of the fuel tank. The fuel cooler is also on the same side, about even with the front U-joint of the rear prop shaft. By the posts I've seen on similar sites, it appears as if the DEF tank hasn't changed in its position or size- it may be OK but I'm still uneasy with it. And I'm still uneasy with the exposed trans cooler at the front bumper. Speaking of that, I envision the plastic skirt at the bottom of the front bumper being the first thing to be damaged when I venture off the paved roads.

Update: I believe I've posted the photos successfully under my handle chessy56. Hope you can view them. A couple of additional things I've noted is that the coolant overflow cap is left hand thread- counter clockwise to tighten (opposite that of my '01 LB7). A rubber close quarters funnel will help with refilling the DEF fluid (not a good design there). Trans and oil dippers are on driver's side. Oil fill cap is located above the rocker cover on the driver's side- not as convenient as my '01 LB7 (potential for a mess). Rear prop shaft does not appear to have spring retainers on the U-joints (plastic pins only- wondering how these caps are held in place?). I also question if the fuel pump has any pressure behind it and if there is a fuel test port somewhere (like there was on the front of my LB7)? I raise this question to see if I still need a lift pump.....

The Ujoints that you describe sound like the "glued" type where a plastic material is injected to retain them.

There is said to be an in tank supply pump producing 60 psi to feed the injection pump which does not have a low pressure component any longer.

All new Denso fuel system. First year so I'll wait and see what happens before trading my '12 on a future model year.

"In tank pump" supplying 60 psi? Pretty cool; sure hope it's reliable.

I'm still new to the who idea of urea injection, DPFs and the like, so I was taken aback when I saw temps north of 1000 deg after the DPF (my old Edge reports 4 temp zones on the exhaust). The engine ramps upwards of 750 rpm on occasion and you can smell the exhaust baking- even after being on the road for 4+ hours @ highway speeds (65-70). I thought regens didn't have to happen regularly if you're running above 30 mph for 30 minutes or longer at a time. My Edge shows a blank field under "regens completed". Looks like I still have more to experience. I also wonder about the accuracy of the urea tank level as it seemingly didn't show any increase after adding 2.5 gal. If this is really a (5.3 gal) tank, adding nearly half that volume should've shown some increase in tank level.

As to the exposed trans cooler, I've already got a couple of fins bent over by road debris and it clogs up with snow/ice. It may not be a big deal, but I'd rather see some protection up front.

Just ordered some nice RuffTuff seat covers and after the winter crap subsides, maybe some fender flairs and window vents. I'll add more pics later. Hopefully, my current pics are available for viewing. Just past 1 month of ownership and I've logged ~4800 miles thus far. Best fuel mileage within a 50 mile window was ~25.6 (pure freeway driving, empty bed).

Well, after reading your post and looking at the new trucks I bought one.. 3500 SRW CC SB and so far I'm happy with it. Mileage seems to be about like yours, which I think is pretty good. I've had a 2001 and a 2009 Duramax and both treated me well. My daughter and son-in-law love their new 2009 I just sold them! I really like the power over the 09. I haven't pulled with her yet but I have a 36 ft. fifth wheel that will test it. Have you notice the oil pressure when you first start it up? about 100! So far I thank you for getting me going on my new truck! Craig.

After reading some on the regen cycles, I was under the impression that this engine would go into a regen mode after "X" number of (around town) miles. When it happens, it was supposed to regen for some 20 miles at 30 mph or more (which would include highway trips). I've noted the thing going into regen shortly after crusing @ 60-70 mph for 4.5 hours!

So just how is this regeneration thing supposed to happen? After driving my LB7 for 16 years, I'm still getting the feel of when this anti-pollution crap is supposed to occur. I'm burning fuel from WI, IN and IL (some of which has that bio-crap blend) and I'm routinely adding FPPF.

Not a bad ride though- after ~5 months of ownership I think I'm upwards of 17K+ miles on it. Fuel economy isn't bad; everything from low 20s (fighting a head wind on the highway) to greater than 26 with a slight tail wind. "Best 50 mile" interval according to the information display is just north of 28.

Is it me or did Chevy put thinner sheet steel on these trucks? Sure seems as if the door and rear quarter panels flex easily if I lean on them (a lot lighter than my '01 Silverado).

It's goes into regen at a certain amount of soot (calculated in the ECM) or some amount of miles since last regen. I don't know what the numbers are for the 2017 but the time in regen is shorter than my 2013 LML.
I have an Edge CTS2 so I can see miles between and when it's in regen mode. It does not display soot level like it did in my 2013 and 2010.
Mine goes into regen between 700 and a little over 800 miles between regens.

Interesting- My regen cycles must come a little more frequently. I've noted that my Edge monitor does pull in the "number of regens" PID and they always read "0".