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I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500 HD with a Duramax. It is just about time for me to change my fuel filter and unlike the oil filter, this one looks like it will be a bear to get to and remove. Any advice on the easiest way to (a) get to the filter and (b) to remove it?
Thanks
It's easiest to pull the wheel, remove half the inner fender retainers and roll the liner back. Fuel filter sits right behind it. It's a piece of cake to change. Be careful when you remove the water in fuel senser on the bottom that you don't break it. Kennedy sells a great tool for this. Also be gentle with the bleeder screw on the top.
I find it easier to remove the right side battery rather than a wheel. Two electric leads (make sure you tape up the positive one while it is loose), one hold down bolt and lift it out. The filter is easy to get to then.
Ed
...regardless of how you get it out, if you hand tighten the new one with mechanics gloves, it will be much easier to remove next time. I have done this since countless times and never had a fuel leak, but I always check and get one more 1/8 turn on the filter, once my hands are flexed and back to normal strenght after the initial installation.
After a couple times, you'll have it down to a five-ten minute task, tops.
Looking at my truck, the remove wheel method looks easier. I looked at removing the battery, but there is still a few items in the way that make it hard to get to. Why did they have to make this a pain to get to?????
Do a few and you'll be dropping them in and out over the fender, without removing anything - except your gloves when you are done.
- Maybe so people would spend $150 at the dealership to have one installed?
- Not much spare real estate under the hood?
- Engineer assigned to the original design had an evil sense of humor?
Cars whizzing by, pouring rain, and mosquitoes all serve as incentives to reducing exchange time...
I'm with Mark on this one. DmaxMaverick helped me with my first ever DIY filter change and we didn't pull anything except the filter.
After changing my fuel filter a number of times, (always trying to go through the fender wheel) I took a good look at things and the there is a easier way to do it. Remove the battery. Everything is right there, can change now in less than 10 minutes. The warranty booklet gives a very good of how to, to change out the filter. Good luck
I agree that the removal of the battery method gives the needed access but I find that I have a very diffucult time getting the filter started - getting enough upward pressure to compress the center gasket and Oring. I had the filter replaced one time by the stealer they did not install the center moulded rubber piece! I'm sure that getting it started was the issue. Do you guys have any tricks to make this easier?? Can you get better upward pressure from the fender liner install?
no need to remove anything, just stand on a milk crate and you will have enough upward pressure. like mark said side of the road in under 10 minutes.
I've changed the last seven on mine and found I can do it from the top without undoing anything.
I carry a collapsible kitchen stand - adds 12 inches to my 5'10" to give my arms access angle and leverage.
I use a nylon web strap wrench - much easier to get on and apply turning pressure with ratchet wrench from the top than 'oil filter wrench' from the bottom. (remember to undo the electric plug for the water sensor before putting strap wrench on)
I find there's enough 'flex' in the air intake pipe to allow the filter to pass between air conditioning pipe and intake pipe to bring used filter up and new filter down between the two. (Works on my 04 LB7 - may or may not be the case for newer engine configuration.)
I coat the big 'O' ring for top seal with a very SMALL amount of grease so it sticks in the top O ring groove of the filter. Without that it has a tendency to 'pop out' of groove. I cover the top of the new filter with Saran or cling wrap as I manoever it into position. When in position I pull off the cling wrap - check that O ring is still in right place - lift it onto the filter housing and start turning it.
The key for me is to get both hands down to the filter, and that allows one hand to provide the upward pressure required to get the filter neoprene centre 'doughnut' seal onto the nub of the filter housing and the threads in position to start turning with the other hand.
Don't overtighten the new filter.
Works for me. Never had a problem yet.
Tor
Changing the filter by removing the inner fender panel allows me to wash out all the accumulated trash behind the panel before it rusts through.
That is the way I do it, without the Saran Wrap though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoolmak