Starter How to

Maybe someone will Sticky this so these same old questions will not come up and folks can have far less troubles doing an R&R on the starter.

OK

The starter on a GMT 400 truck (88 and later pickups and 92 and later Burbs and 2 door Tahoe with the diesels) is not all that tough to get off.

The question on the "tail hook", rear support bracket or whatever you wish to call it, comes up all the time.

This part is an absolute must have to prevent the starter bolts and or the block or both from breaking.

The "tail hook" bolts to the side of the block and to the little stud on the starter.

TO remove the starter is an easy matter.

Jack the rig up and block securely. Next remove the RH front tire/wheel and then remove the rubber inner fender flap. (careful use with a little prong tool may save the plastic barbed button retainers but if not they are an easy score at most parts stores.

Now, you can sit right there on your tooshy and get at the starter "tail hook" as well as the wireing.

Once the tail hook is loose and removed, the wires are an easy one too.

Remove the two main bolts and off comes the starter.

If the bolts look at all messed up or if they look like they have been off a few times or the "tail hook" is missing then by all means, replace the two bolts with the factory "real deal" parts.

The factory bolts have a Knurled ring just beyond the threads and this makes the bolt SNUG in the first part of the hole.

The idea is simple, the weakest part of the bolt is at the root of the thread right near the last thread and with the torque applied to these bolts by the starter, they could break at the threads.

The holes have a "PILOT" (first 3/8") then the threads, this allows the knurl to help hold the bolt stable in the hole.

Sooooooooooo, dont use harware store bolts in these holes, not even grade 5 or 8 ones, use only the parts that were designed for the spot.

So many other bolts on these engines can have standard metric bolts used, NOT HERE.

Replace the starter as usual, leave the bolts just barely snug, then install the "tail hook" and just snug it up, now finish tightening the main starter bolts, then finish the "tail hook".

The electrical can be reconnected now followed by replacing the rubber flap, the tire/wheel and your done.

This is the easiest way to deal with the starters on these trucks. The frustration, busted knuckles and "Blue air" are eliminated :eek:

NEVER RUN A STARTER ON THESE TRUCKS WITHOUT THE "TAIL HOOK"

If your hook is missing or broken, get a new/another one and get it on there along with two (2) new main starter bolts.

Your starter and your wallet will be far happier.

Having seen the carnage that can result from broken starter bolts and broken blocks, I can't stress this enough.

The above precedure is easy so give it a try.

Missy

How timely!

I am and have been running "tailhookless" now for about 10 years(or 6 bolts if we are measuring in "Bolts / miles". Well, ya learn something every day. And learn....and learn, etc.

I did post a query the other day and I got a quick responce from DmaxMavrick who told me to post haste, get the bracket. I have the bracket and then another question.

Before I pose said question, is this the said bracket?

Bracket was purchased at a local GM dealer.

Thanks and I hope this helps the cause.

Thats the little beast.

Not much really, just a needed item though.

Be sure to use the proper bolt in the block. These should be a metric bolt.

Use a lock washer on it to keep it secure.

Missy

Just to update. Found some time today to check it out. It does not look like this bracket will work. I will try to get some pictures on Sunday.

Here are pictures of the starter. Hopefully this can help with figuring out what to do, since I have only ever observed the starter with just the two bolts.

I think I figured it out. As you look at the picture from underneath the starter, you may be able to make out the mounting tab on the front of the starter. It is on the bottom of the starter and hence, useless for the bracket. From there, the bracket cannot reach the block.

I am assuming the other half of the bracket will use one of the oilpan mounting bolts to attach it to the block. Yes? Cause I don't see anywhere else it would screw in to.

Therefore, will I need to rotate the silver cap 180 degrees so the tab is up towards the engine? Can that be done?

You sure about that bracket? I have replaced a bunch of 6.2 starters and never ever saw that bracket. May it was "grease glued" in place so I did not notice.

Also, a 4x4 truck is much easier yet more difficult to replace the starter on. You have to lift the starter higher than a 2wd, but you do not need a jack. The leaf spring is the big hurtle. But you can wedge your arm on it to hold the starter in place. Good writeup none the less.

All 6.2/6.5 starters came with the little bracket that bolts onto the starters forward facing end and then to the block.

A good many people simply remove them and never put them back on.

You are describing the procedure as used on a Pre 88 pickup or a 91 and earlier Burb/Blazer (The one oddity was the 88-91 Crewcab which is the same as the earlier trucks)

The GMT400 trucks, Burbs and 2 door Tahoes can be changed out as mentioned earlier in the thread.

Always reinstall the little bracket on the front facing end of the starter.

This bracket stops the starter from twisting and applying excessive torque to the bolts and the block area where the bolts fasten.

Failure to use the bracket can result in a failure of the starter nose housing. breakage of the bolts and in some cases breakage of the block.

Missy

Had my 6.2's for 13 years and have never suffered a broken bolt and I DO have the bracket.

Had a co-worker with a 6.2 truck for a few years. Didn't know he had it untill he gave it away. I asked him why the heck he did that (and why he didn't give it to me!). He said he got tired of replacing starter bolts. For some reason they kept shearing off, he said. I asked him about the bracket. "Uh, what bracket???"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Subzilla

Had my 6.2's for 13 years and have never suffered a broken bolt and I DO have the bracket.

Had a co-worker with a 6.2 truck for a few years. Didn't know he had it untill he gave it away. I asked him why the heck he did that (and why he didn't give it to me!). He said he got tired of replacing starter bolts. For some reason they kept shearing off, he said. I asked him about the bracket. "Uh, what bracket???"

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I had a few break on my 6.5. I stll have not figured out how to get some support for the front facing part of the starter.

What I have been doing is putting a new set of bolts in about once a month or so. Then, after about a week, I retorque. Seems to work as I have not broke a bolt in about a year. But I am going to figure something out real soon to get some extra support. Then I will run it by y'all for imput.

If you have the rear support bracket in place the bolts will be loaded in tension and there will (should) be no problems. A little blue Loctite will solve any torque issues.

Without the bracket the pressure from the starter gear tries to push the nose of the starter away from the ring gear and puts a bending moment on the bolts and the threads in the block. bolts break or blocks crack and nothing good comes of that....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnC

If you have the rear support bracket in place the bolts will be loaded in tension and there will (should) be no problems. A little blue Loctite will solve any torque issues.

Without the bracket the pressure from the starter gear tries to push the nose of the starter away from the ring gear and puts a bending moment on the bolts and the threads in the block. bolts break or blocks crack and nothing good comes of that....

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do you have a part # for that part? I have broke like 12 starter bolts

I just did this and I'll relate my experience and give some advice.
Well I don't know about "easy to get to"; it certainly was easier than doing nothing but access to the front portion was still difficult and was done lying down, not sitting. My starter is hidden perfectly by the frame rail, FWIW. One thing I learned the hard way, don't jack up the axle, jack up the frame of the truck. This way the axle descends as much as possible "out of the way" (although the front differential is still very much in the way). If you have a 2WD this job will be easy from the get go though. As for jacking, I have 33" tires on stock suspension, even with a fancy full-size floor jack it required creative jacking and supporting. I lifted off the front spring shackle.

In retrospect, the best procedure for placing the starter back in is:
1. Screw tailhook into block and heatshield, loosely (there is adjustment room)
2. Heft starter up on to front drive shaft. While resting here, attach accessible wires*
3. Slide starter up, resting holding bolt on starter into tailhook. Insert and tighten factory starter bolts.
4. screw nut onto starter/tailhook
5. Tighten tailhook to block final bit.

* DO NOT overtighten the nut on the very small ring terminal. This is a steel nut on some sort of copper alloy thin, tiny stud. I went through the trouble of refurbishing my old starter, then overtorqued the nut on the soft metal and snapped the stud right off. Non-replaceable part, had to buy a new starter :(

Overall, I agree that removing the front right tire and jacking it up is a good idea, it greatly improves access. Hopefully my experience will save someone some time and knuckle skin.

Hi
The stud you snapped of can be replaced on both types of of starters by changing the solinoid on the starter.
If you are really into fixing you can replace the stud in the soilnoid on the direct drive,havn't tried to take apart the solinoid on the reduction type yet.
Thomas

The big, heavy 27MT direct drive starter on my 1984 also has a forward support bracket that is a MUST for reliable attachment of the starter. If you monkey with the starter bolts for any reason, you should be periodically checking the torque on them - 40 ft-lbs. if I remember correctly. Every time I change oil I put the torque wrench on those bolts, until they stop moving, then I let well enough alone !!