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So what does it take besides removing the steering box to remove the pitman arm? Is there a tool that will fit between the bottom of the steering box and the cross member on a 4 X 4?
I called the dealer and they told me they don't sell any tools and for some reason my neighborhood Napa was closed today.
I just changed mine about 2 weeks ago, and it wasn't fun :mad: My dealer said to use a pickle fork and an air hammer :confused: .........yeah right!
First loosen the box and large nut on the pitman arm, (don't remove the steering shaft) and point the pitman arm shaft towards the engine. Then buy a pitman arm puller from a parts store (its easy to identify the one that works the best. Their relatively short and have 2 ears with a large center bolt) Now for the fun part..... using a grinder or die grinder cut into the pitman arm towards the center splined shaft, but of course don't cut too far. Then when you have cut as much as you dare put the puller on it and it should come off. If yours has been changed recently then skip the grinder part, but if it was like mine you will just brake the puller (I broke 2 :mad: ) if you don't cut into the pitman arm. Good Luck! also look for the thread I posted about 2 weeks ago I't might help you some more ;)
P.S. if you plan on keeping your truck then Anti-Sieze will be your best friend for re-assembly so it's not such a pain next time.
You need a better puller...
I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.
The first puller i broke was made in Taiwan so that probably had something to do with it, but the second one was good USA steel. I also had a large C-clamp wrapped around it to keep it from bending outwards. The threads started to strip right before the ear snapped off. I couldn't believe how much pressure was on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ronniejoe
I agree that I shouldn't have suggested grinding on it.. that was a big mistake. I personally found that to be twenty times easier than putting a puller under that much stress not to mention the other tools involved. I will stand by this when I say that some are worse than others in my case it was OEM equiptment from 95 and I live in the rust belt. I figured the grinder idea was a lot better than some of the Ideas a couple "profesional alignment shops" suggested to me: Like torching it off, or the pickle fork air hammer idea or my favorite: "just use a punch and sledge hammer" :confused:
Bottom line: Use your best judgement and don't compromise safety.
I had allready tried a pickle fork just to have the houseing give before the pitman arm. Thought about heat, but then there is a seal all too close. I just hoped there was an easyer method...........short of removing the box! Now where did I leave the Dynamite and blasting caps............? I know they are arround here somewhere.
Thats how i did mine.Take your time, when you get near the end mine made a pop and the last 1/8th of an inch just cracked.If you cut the pitman twice you don't even have to loosen the steering box.No torches, no sledgehammers, just patience! Good luck and keep us posted!
Snap on has a nice puller. I just did mine as well and was not that bad. Remove the bolts holding the box on then twist it a little bit and put the puller in place then crank it off.
If you pitman arm is bad check your idler arm as it easy to do at the same time.
Hmm, how strange and scary!
I was expecting a major battle with the pitman arm. Instead it popped out of the relay arm without issue, then I carefully undid the steering box and rotated it to get access to the pitman arm, undid the bolt with little more than finger pressure, and then the pitman arm just kind of fell off while I was adjusting the gear puller.
Should I be worried about the steering box?
I guess I'll not look a gift horse in the mouth and will just replace the pitman and idler and torque them down to spec.
Wow.
If you are trying to get the arm off the steering box??
*** Be sure to remove the bolt from the thing and not just loosen it as the bolt goes through a groove in the shaft to keep it from falling off****
Dont be pounding on things or using heat!!
You can if you are careful TAP (LIGHTLY) a wedge into the split to relieve the tension on the splines and it should come off fairly easy.
A pickle fork can be used on the end oposite the gear box but again be careful not to slam the box.
These boxes are fairly tough but dont like being pounded on and do have some delicate parts inside that can be fouled up if you wail on them with a hammer.
The best puller is in order, as was mentioned thew Tiawan stuff will probably fold on you.
If this does not work for you and the arm is toast anyway the use of a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to relieve things at the back away from the split line is not a bad deal.
Better to do that than get rough with the box.
And for Gawds sake dont get a torch in there !!!!! bad news all the way around.
**OH BTW ** when you install the new one use never seaze on the splines after you clean them well with a wire brush to get all the crud and rust out.
Hope this helps
I've always known well in advance when I had to change one, and what worked well for me was to spray Aero-Kroil onto the arm & shaft every day before doing the job. Other good penetrating oils are Loosey-Goosey and PB B'laster. You know it's good, it says "As Seen On TV!" on the can! :D
The heavy-duty OTC Pitman arm puller works great. If it comes off very hard try tightening the heck out of the forcing screw then, using a small hammer (16oz), tap the side of the Pitman arm. Tighten the forcing screw some more and tap it again. Don't be afraid to pour the penetrating oil on, either!
Guess I've been lucky as my pitman arms have always slid right off with just a little bit of pry bar help. Like Robyn said, remove the bolt. I spent a good amount of time trying to remove an arm while the bolt was still in place only to realize that the bolt goes through an indent on the pitman shaft. Once I discovered my stupidity, I pulled the bolt out and the arm practically fell off. Keep trying, you'll get it.
Ok, changing out tie rod ends, pitman arm, and idler arm. Going somewhat smoothly so far. Having the proper tools always helps. But to remove either the steering box or the idler box, the top bolts are hidden behind the fender panel?!? Is that right? Pulling the glow plugs on the passenger side awhile back I also seemed to be having access problems compared to other people's descriptions. I can't imagine that the body was lowered over the frame by a previous owner, but something just seems screwy here...
Down to just removing the pitman arm. Man is that thing a bugger! Cannot get a puller in because of the brace below the steering box. Unbolted the steering box, but cannot figure out how to turn it because of the diagonal brace from the lower brace to the frame... Soaked the pitman arm down with penetrating oil last night and am going to give it another try this morning, but I think the next step is pulling the steering box completely out so that I can pull the pitman arm on the bench...
Thats what I ened up doing. I was a lot easyer on the tail gate than under the truck. Almost fell of once out. Must have been one of those little gremlins hiding in there just to T me off! :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by trbankii
Snap on pitman arm puller. Mine has done about 20 so far and never had a problem. No cutting, heating required. Just pop off the pitman to steering rod end, unbolt box from the frame, shove it up forwards, then put the puller on and hit it with a 1/2 inch impact.
Haven't been able to get back to this. Last week the job hit me with working seven days a week for the next month or more... Which is a whole 'nuther hassle...
Might have to look at the SnapOn puller, though. I have the Kent Moore puller and there is no way to get the steering box to move far enough to get the puller on. Although, the other item added to the mix is the snow plow mount. Maybe that is interfering with things if I'd try to pull the box forward... I've tried turning the box clockwise, so the shaft points towards the engine but that doesn't give enough clearance.
I just used a standard puller and almost didn't need it AFTER getting the steering box out on the tail gate (work bench). I thought it was going to be a chore to get the box out of the frame, but it's not all that bad. You can probably have it all done in an hour or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by trbankii
I am going to try to get out there tonight and give it another go. Just too many things going on and all hitting at once lately...
I started to remove the lines to the power steering box, but was ending up twisting the line itself - there is some rust and I guess it is getting stuck in the ferrule. If I can get the pitman arm off without removing the steering box it would help. May end up replacing the lines too if I have to take the box out...
I always turn the pitman away from the engine when doing mine.
Finally got back around to working on this. Put in over 100 hours of overtime in June and was working seven days a week... Sort of sucked... And on salary, so not even any extra $$$ for truck parts or anything... :(
But finally managed to get the pitman arm off. I'm not sure if some of the people are talking 2WD as far as turning the steering box. With 4WD I just didn't seem to have that option. The cross braces from the frame to the cross piece under the engine just wouldn't allow much movement. I finally disconnected the one line from the steering box to the brake booster and that allowed me to pull the box far enough forward to clear the cross piece under the engine and just barely get the pitman arm puller on. Cranked it down and it sounded like a gunshot when it broke loose. After that, putting it all back together went pretty quickly. Took Robyn's advice of coating the splines with anti-sieze before reassembling it in case it has to come off again in the future.
I just did a Pittman Arm on a one ton 4WD. I had to remove the steering gear as the major lower frame is right in the way. I used a cut off wheel to make reference marks on the old arm and casting so I could reference the new arm.
The steering shaft telescopes and I needed assistance in re-assembly.
It took about 2 hours to do the whole job. I have the luxury of a lift and a full compliment of air tools. I would guess it would take at least 4 hours without those tools.
The hydraulic lines have 18mm flare nuts and you may want to loosen them with a crow foot wrench as getting a good purchase with a flare wrench is difficult, I used the flare wrench after I broke the seal as it is faster than the crow foot.
A pickle fork air hammer was used to break the Pittman ball joint and a Pittman puller was used to pull the arm off the gear case after it was removed from the truck. I used anti-seize on the shaft just in case.