Battery Replacement Options

I've been having some hard starting issues again lately - even with the warmer weather. This past winter was the coldest we've had in years and I had the truck on the battery charger a number of times to keep it ready to go. I'm sure nothing compared to what some of you face, but we had weeks below 10℉ when we're typically used to daytime temps of upper 20's to low 30's with only nights and a few days dropping much lower than that.

So I checked the batteries out this weekend and the one on the driver's side is toast - won't hold a charge. Both batteries were replaced last in the fall of 2010 and I swap them side to side a couple times a year to try to "wear" them evenly. But this seems to be about how things go - three to four years and I'm replacing the batteries.

Personally, I feel that the dual batteries and the OEM cabling is not an optimal situation. I did put in new OEM cables the last time the batteries were replaced and that seemed to help a bit - for awhile. Several have recommended upgrading the cables with welding cable and the Ford Starter Relay. At the very least, I think I have to do that.

But I also got to thinking about other options. Looking through documentation, the OEM battery spec for a '93 6.5TD is a 75 series 570 CCA battery (correct me if I'm wrong, there were some differing opinions).

I've got two 78 series 770 CCA in there - which is a bit bigger (about 10 1/4 x 7 x 8 1/4") but fits. Looking at Heavy Duty Commercial batteries, a 4D is 1300 CCA about 20 5/8 x 8 5/8 x 10" and an 8D 1400 CCA is 20 5/8 x 11 x 10". Another option is a 31 series with 1100 CCA and about 13 x 6 3/4 x 9 1/2".

A single one of the 4D/8D batteries would be over the specs of the OEM battery (1140 CCA for the two) - but obviously much bigger. I'd likely be looking at mounting it under the bed to get it to fit. The 31 series is just under the CCA spec, but the size is a lot more manageable. With some massaging and fabricating a battery tray, I could probably fit one under the hood in place of one of the existing batteries.

Any thoughts? Do you think that a single 1100 CCA battery would be enough - particularly by eliminating the "crossover" cable, connections, and such of a second battery? I'd put it on the passenger side so that I had the shortest distance to the starter and then rewire things to eliminate the driver's side battery. Or, maybe, put a second "accessory" battery over there with an isolator.

Howdy
What type/brand of batteries are using?

DEFFINENTLY replace all your cables with either welding cable or high quality LARGE battery cable. Use industrial crimp connectors and lugs. They require a special tool, but most electrical shops have one and if you get all your cables cut and ready they can crimp on the connectors. Make sure you can seal the connectors as well.

In the USMC we found that the life of the batteries was increased by using a de-sulfication battery charger about every 4-6 months. Just hook it up and let it run the cycle for 24hr. It really seemed to help. Especially with the standard lead acid plate type of battery.

Depending on the environment that your batteries see, 4-5 years might be all you get. I typically replace mine at 5 years and move the old batteries to a less demanding job.

I have been using carquest AGM type in all my rigs for about 5 years and been very happy. I have also been very happy with Optima Red Top.
IMHO- stay with the two battery system. If you have good cables/connections, it will work fine.

Hope this helps....

My 05 Duramax has 2 5 year old Red Tops, and fires up great even at -60. Granted the motor has a block heater, oil pan heater, transmission pan heater and I do plug in a trickle charger when it gets cold. I have never had a starting issue with it.

My 99 Burb (now with a new owner) had a set of Yellow Wal-Mart 1000CA batteries last 6 years in the same conditions the D-max goes through without a trickle charger, and just battery warming pads under the batteries when cold. Funny thing, only one of the batteries died, the other still works great two years after being replaced.

The K-5 has a mix and match. Yes I know it's not optimal, but it's an off road rig that I don't depend on for driving every day. For the last two years it's had a Yellow top on the passenger side that was new in 2005 and the functional Wal-Mart Yellow 1000CA battery from the Burb. I just fired it up yesterday after it sat for the last nine months. Both batteries were low, but not dead. A few hours on the charger, and it fired right up (less than 1 second of cranking) and the batteries held charge fine overnight. I will run them till they quit.

My wife's 06 Envoy has a 1 yr old Red Top, and it's winterized like the other vehicles, but typically spends the night in a garage where temps rarely drop below 20F. We have left it outside for extended periods and it fires up great even at -45F.

I like Optima AGM batteries, but I know folks that have had a bad one or two and unfortunately some of the local stores have boned them when it came to getting them exchanged.

My vote goes to the Optima batteries

If you go with all soldered eyes on the cables the system will work far better.

Even the best factory cables will corrode inside the cables core and leave the cables less than optimal, and it happens in short order.

The fine stranded copper welding cable is the best.

Even the ground eyes on the engine end will corrode inside.

With the Optima batteries, use the top post connectors and the post clamps that have the stud and wing nut.
These are great and allow for easy connection without having to undo the main clamp on the post.

This makes doing A JUMP far easier too, as the large post terminals are easy to get the jump cable onto.


Missy

I'm slowly leaning towards upgrading the cables, using a Ford solenoid, and sticking with conventional batteries. For the trouble to find a location and mount one of the commercial batteries, I think my time is better spent upgrading the cables and such.

Howdy
As Missy said...the solder is a good idea. The crimp connectors that I mentioned can be soldered after they are crimped. This is actually what I have on my truck. They are then sealed with heatshrink w/ sealant inside. The welding cable is easy to find, I think I used 2/0 size, just make sure you have the correct size connectors. I used industrial top battery post crimp on type connectors as they have the most surface area contact with the battery post. STAY AWAY From side post stuff. Include a couple extra grounds and a new heavy charge wire to go to your alternator.
Hope this helps!