Originally Posted by
DmaxMaverick
The pump timing, initially, should be a walk in the park. It should already have timing marks on the pump mounting flange top, and on the timing cover top. The marks should line up, or be close (if timing has been adjusted, which is normal for higher mileage engines to compensate for timing parts wear). If you don't find timing marks on both, scribe a mark on the pump flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you find marks and they are more than 1/8" apart, make a scribe mark on the IP flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you install a different pump, it should have a timing mark you can line up with the mark on the timing cover (line it up approximate to the current pump timing marks). Timing may not be ideal, but it's close enough for a start and run. Correct on not turning the engine with the IP removed. It won't mess with the pump timing, but the pump drive gear can become off-timed with the cam gear (it just sits on top of the cam gear with no pump installed). When installing, the indexing pin on the pump drive flange will reset the correct timing (it will only install correctly one way. so make SURE the pin lines up with the hole in the gear). If for any reason the gear timing seem off, confirm it by lining up the gear timing marks. It's a good idea to rotate the engine so the marks can be seen (through the oil fill hole) lined up, before removing the pump. I've never had one move on me, but it can happen.
If you make timing adjustments, remember, the pump rotates opposite the crank, and at 1/2 speed of the crank (IP timing degrees will be exaggerated at 2X that of the crank, so it doesn't take much movement to mean a lot).