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Thread: Harmonic Balancer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Nashville, NC
    Posts
    43

    Question Harmonic Balancer

    Assuming I have all the necessary tools, how much time and difficulty can I expect when pulling and replacing the harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley on a 94? Anything else I should be looking at/for while doing the job? Asking this in the first person but will be having a local shop do the work. I realize they can probably quote me a price but having a little insight of what some of the members have run into will give me some idea of potential cost overall.

    Thanks
    94 K2500, Ram Air, Banks 3" Exhaust, Soot Trap Delete, 3.73 Gears, OPS Bypass, Carter LP, Tank Sock Delete, Lift Pump Pre-filter, Billet Crank Shaft Pulley, Fluidmpr, 91 Gallon RDS Auxiliary Fuel Tank, Dual Relocated Oil Filters

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,382

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Feeniks, Aridzona
    Posts
    1,114

    Default

    With all the proper tools, well under an hour. Change the belt. Inspect the rubber in the lower pulley - if the damper is shot, it is likely the rubber in the lower pulley isn't too far behind.
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Tools at the ready, the service manual shows 1.0 hrs. It also shows .75 hrs if it's warranty (apparently, the warranty tech's aren't afforded the requisite union break). This is for R/R of the starter (installation of the flywheel lock), belt, dampener, pulley, and front main seal (highly recommended, if original or 10+ yrs). I've done a few, and that sounds about right. Much easier on a lift, but it doesn't affect the time much, if at all, compared to a creeper. A new crank bolt is recommended, probably rightfully, but I've reused many without issue. Use blue Loc-Tite on a clean bolt (a new OEM bolt should have the thread locker already applied). Torque is ~200 ft/lb.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Kokomo, Indiana
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Is there anybody near Kokomo with the tools and know how to do my damper and pulley on my '94? While it looks fine right now, she is due and I would feel better if both were brand new AC Delco parts. I think she is also getting due for a fresh starter. Cranking RPM isnt where I like it as it gets colder and yes all the grounds have been cleaned and so forth(batteries are both just over 1 year old). Thanks Mike and Michele T
    Silly NT's....I have Asperger's!
    1994 Chevy C2500 6.5td
    SSDiesel Heatsync
    4L80e built
    150K miles and counting

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Nashville, NC
    Posts
    43

    Default Update

    FYI, took shop a bit longer than an hour to change out harmonic balancer. Everything came off OK but when it came time to put the Fluidampr on it would not go. Multiple attempts to ensure it started straight and it would go on a bit and stop. Even hammering on the darn thing wouldn't move it. (LOL, jk to see if you are actually reading this) Ended up having to call the company to find out the ID of the harmonic balancer to make sure we had the right part. ID was 1.5995 with a 10k +-. Crank was supposed to be 1.0602. Mic'ed ok but ended up using a barrel sander to take a little off the Fluidampr. Once that was done it slipped on easily. Don't know if there was some kind of coating on the balancer and it was on the small end of their tolerance to begin with or perhaps a slight taper. I am never surprised when stuff like this comes up when working on this truck. It's always something. Anyway, a heads up just in case anyone has the same issue.

    On a side note, the OEM balancer and pulley were still good to go, IMO, but I felt justified, all the same, to replace with more durable parts. Age had me more concerned as my mileage is only 87k miles.
    94 K2500, Ram Air, Banks 3" Exhaust, Soot Trap Delete, 3.73 Gears, OPS Bypass, Carter LP, Tank Sock Delete, Lift Pump Pre-filter, Billet Crank Shaft Pulley, Fluidmpr, 91 Gallon RDS Auxiliary Fuel Tank, Dual Relocated Oil Filters

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Howdy
    FYI- I had the same issue with both the fluidampers I installed. They both had to be debured and polished a bit. I think they make them a tight fit and expect 50% of us to have to polish them up to get a good fit. on my second one I considered warming up the damper in my rod oven and the cooling the crank nose...but I could feel machine marks in the damper so I just cleaned it up and it went on.
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

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