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Thread: Drain Valve

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    171

    Default Drain Valve

    I'm having a hard time finding the part numbers for the hose that goes from the Fuel Filter Manager to the water drain valve and the hose that leaves the drain valve and hangs loose. I realize the latter is probably just a generic diesel fuel line (ID ?) but the former has some type of fitting on it. Mine is leaking due to the shop tech trying to reroute it and they stretched it so tight that is leaking at the fitting. I tried LMC, RockAuto and most of the GM sites. So far no good.
    DP member #38 1992 Chev K2500 RPO C6P 6.5TD 150K miles
    2014 John Deere 1025R

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    us, ga
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    166

    Default

    Im building an engine and literally just replaced mine last week. Fitting?? Mine had hose clamps. Just match the hose at any auto parts store 3/8" fuel line I think?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    us, ga
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    166

    Default

    Correction: 1/4" fuel hose

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    Apex, NC
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    Default Update

    Yes, hose ID is .25 inches. Measured with dial calipers. I could find no info for '92 6.5TD but the local Chevy dealer found an exploded view of a 6.2 NA that uses a different fuel filter but a similar drain valve setup. Parts # 09438257 (fuel line) and 10154675 (drain valve). Problem is the fuel line part is 13mm (.5 inch) so that's a no go. You can see in the picture the line from the FFM to the drain valve has some sort of fitting. The hose is leaking from the part where it appears to be crimped. I haven't disassembled valve yet so I might be able to just clamp line to valve. And no, I'm not the person that mounted the valve to the bottom of the thermostat housing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    DP member #38 1992 Chev K2500 RPO C6P 6.5TD 150K miles
    2014 John Deere 1025R

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    us, ga
    Posts
    166

    Default

    Take the line off, put a nipple on the valve end, 1/4" fuel hose, and hose clamp it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Under the crimped looking thingy is a regular hose barb.The crimped thingy can be cut off or ignored.Add a hose clamp to what you have or change the line and add a hose clamp and you will be good to go.
    I have reused many of those kind of fittings.Out in bush where i live you just have to get things done because the parts stores are 100 miles away if i don't have it.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    171

    Default

    I hear you Yukon. I try to replace with OE if it's not cost prohibitive first (call it anal I guess) before going to the alt method. I'm finding during this repair/restoration that the small items are a bear. You wouldn't think a 1992 vehicle would be that hard to find parts for. I've always wondered how many first year 6.5s GM sold.
    DP member #38 1992 Chev K2500 RPO C6P 6.5TD 150K miles
    2014 John Deere 1025R

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    If you wanted a nice fuel line with ends you could take the old one off and go to a shop that makes hoses.You could get a nice a stainless hose with ends.Should be the last one you ever needed.
    I hear you about parts and the OEM. I have a 98 that i need a front bearing assembly for ,i got a hold of the GM dealer to see if they had any.The truck was 12 yrs old and they said they don't really support old trucks anymore and would have to order the part.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Wanting to stick with OEM parts is mostly a good thing (cost not considered), however, it's not always the best option. Keep in mind, many components/connections are designed for expediency during assembly, but the connectors, be they fluid or electrical, may not be ideal for long term. The crossover-heater hose quick connector being a prime example. Often times, an aftermarket or non-OEM solution is an improvement on the original. Most aftermarket oil cooler lines are far better than originals or OEM replacements, as another example.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Apex, NC
    Posts
    171

    Default

    All I know is that the hose in question performed without any problem until some "mechanic" started yanking on it. If I thought there was a design problem or known issue with the OE part, then yes I would not hesitate to replace it with something with a more robust design. I.E. , I'm replacing all my original fuel hard lines while I have the fuel tank out as they were starting to show signs of corrosion. The replacements I ordered came with stainless steel flex extensions instead of the crimped rubber ones, which is where I found a lot of the corrosion. Same thing with the dreaded OE oil cooler lines. I had 150K plus miles on mine without a single leak. The same "mechanic" spliced into the oil cooler lines instead of replacing the whole line when replacing my damaged oil cooler, so now I have another job to do. So I'll probably replace the OE oil cooler lines with the Leroy or Kennedy kit. I'm taking the fuel hose fitting apart tomorrow and will post an updated picture.
    And thanks to all that have replied in this thread.
    Mick
    DP member #38 1992 Chev K2500 RPO C6P 6.5TD 150K miles
    2014 John Deere 1025R

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    Apex, NC
    Posts
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    Default Result

    Drain valve finished. No more leaks. Nothing is ever as easy as it looks . Never. Now on the the next of many problems.
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    DP member #38 1992 Chev K2500 RPO C6P 6.5TD 150K miles
    2014 John Deere 1025R

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Nashville, NC
    Posts
    43

    Default

    I feel your pain. In the process, myself, of updating my 94. Just had the fuel lines replaced, new sending unit with the sock deleted, new fuel tank, Carter lift pump, pre lift pump fuel filter, Fluidampr harmonic balancer, and billet crankshaft pulley. Fortunately, I have a local shop that does this kind of work, provided they don't have to get into the engine. Next project will be glow plugs and injectors but with only 87k miles on the clock, it will probably be awhile before it actually needs to be done. I'll drop the money into repairs rather having a monthly payment that rivals my mortgage. Hoping that fixing or replacing known issues will keep it going for another 20+ years.
    94 K2500, Ram Air, Banks 3" Exhaust, Soot Trap Delete, 3.73 Gears, OPS Bypass, Carter LP, Tank Sock Delete, Lift Pump Pre-filter, Billet Crank Shaft Pulley, Fluidmpr, 91 Gallon RDS Auxiliary Fuel Tank, Dual Relocated Oil Filters

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