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Thread: Pitman arm removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
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    Knoxville,Tennessee
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    Default Pitman arm removal

    So what does it take besides removing the steering box to remove the pitman arm? Is there a tool that will fit between the bottom of the steering box and the cross member on a 4 X 4?
    I called the dealer and they told me they don't sell any tools and for some reason my neighborhood Napa was closed today.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  2. #2
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    Jun 2006
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    Richmond UT
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    Default

    I just changed mine about 2 weeks ago, and it wasn't fun My dealer said to use a pickle fork and an air hammer .........yeah right!

    First loosen the box and large nut on the pitman arm, (don't remove the steering shaft) and point the pitman arm shaft towards the engine. Then buy a pitman arm puller from a parts store (its easy to identify the one that works the best. Their relatively short and have 2 ears with a large center bolt) Now for the fun part..... using a grinder or die grinder cut into the pitman arm towards the center splined shaft, but of course don't cut too far. Then when you have cut as much as you dare put the puller on it and it should come off. If yours has been changed recently then skip the grinder part, but if it was like mine you will just brake the puller (I broke 2 ) if you don't cut into the pitman arm. Good Luck! also look for the thread I posted about 2 weeks ago I't might help you some more
    P.S. if you plan on keeping your truck then Anti-Sieze will be your best friend for re-assembly so it's not such a pain next time.
    95 K2500 Silverado regcab, 6.5L F-vin, 4l80E, HD alloys 3" turbo back, Air intake, custom machined FSD isolator & I just turned over 50,000 original miles SOLD!!!
    79 Toyota Hilux 20R, G52 5-speed swap, 4.7:1 t-case gear reduction, 4.37:1 R&P's, and 35" X-terrains. Too bad the poor thing is about to die from skin cancer
    86 F250 Lariat 4x4 6.9 diesel, 4 speed, 3.55 gears, and lovin it

  3. #3
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    Nov 2002
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    Default

    You need a better puller...

    I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Richmond UT
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ronniejoe
    You need a better puller...

    I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.
    The first puller i broke was made in Taiwan so that probably had something to do with it, but the second one was good USA steel. I also had a large C-clamp wrapped around it to keep it from bending outwards. The threads started to strip right before the ear snapped off. I couldn't believe how much pressure was on it.
    I agree that I shouldn't have suggested grinding on it.. that was a big mistake. I personally found that to be twenty times easier than putting a puller under that much stress not to mention the other tools involved. I will stand by this when I say that some are worse than others in my case it was OEM equiptment from 95 and I live in the rust belt. I figured the grinder idea was a lot better than some of the Ideas a couple "profesional alignment shops" suggested to me: Like torching it off, or the pickle fork air hammer idea or my favorite: "just use a punch and sledge hammer"
    Bottom line: Use your best judgement and don't compromise safety.
    95 K2500 Silverado regcab, 6.5L F-vin, 4l80E, HD alloys 3" turbo back, Air intake, custom machined FSD isolator & I just turned over 50,000 original miles SOLD!!!
    79 Toyota Hilux 20R, G52 5-speed swap, 4.7:1 t-case gear reduction, 4.37:1 R&P's, and 35" X-terrains. Too bad the poor thing is about to die from skin cancer
    86 F250 Lariat 4x4 6.9 diesel, 4 speed, 3.55 gears, and lovin it

  5. #5
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    Smile

    I had allready tried a pickle fork just to have the houseing give before the pitman arm. Thought about heat, but then there is a seal all too close. I just hoped there was an easyer method...........short of removing the box! Now where did I leave the Dynamite and blasting caps............? I know they are arround here somewhere.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  6. #6
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    Jan 2005
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    Denville,New Jersey
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    Default Grind it off....

    Thats how i did mine.Take your time, when you get near the end mine made a pop and the last 1/8th of an inch just cracked.If you cut the pitman twice you don't even have to loosen the steering box.No torches, no sledgehammers, just patience! Good luck and keep us posted!
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Snap on has a nice puller. I just did mine as well and was not that bad. Remove the bolts holding the box on then twist it a little bit and put the puller in place then crank it off.
    If you pitman arm is bad check your idler arm as it easy to do at the same time.
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Victoria, BC, Canada
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    Hmm, how strange and scary!

    I was expecting a major battle with the pitman arm. Instead it popped out of the relay arm without issue, then I carefully undid the steering box and rotated it to get access to the pitman arm, undid the bolt with little more than finger pressure, and then the pitman arm just kind of fell off while I was adjusting the gear puller.

    Should I be worried about the steering box?

    I guess I'll not look a gift horse in the mouth and will just replace the pitman and idler and torque them down to spec.

    Wow.
    ---------------------
    1998 Chevy silverado 3500 4x4, 6.5TD, 215000 miles, 4L80-E, 4.10 ratio, 6" lift, gauges and intercooler... and a newly rebuilt engine on new block and heads!

  9. #9
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    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    If you are trying to get the arm off the steering box??
    *** Be sure to remove the bolt from the thing and not just loosen it as the bolt goes through a groove in the shaft to keep it from falling off****

    Dont be pounding on things or using heat!!
    You can if you are careful TAP (LIGHTLY) a wedge into the split to relieve the tension on the splines and it should come off fairly easy.

    A pickle fork can be used on the end oposite the gear box but again be careful not to slam the box.
    These boxes are fairly tough but dont like being pounded on and do have some delicate parts inside that can be fouled up if you wail on them with a hammer.

    The best puller is in order, as was mentioned thew Tiawan stuff will probably fold on you.

    If this does not work for you and the arm is toast anyway the use of a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to relieve things at the back away from the split line is not a bad deal.
    Better to do that than get rough with the box.

    And for Gawds sake dont get a torch in there !!!!! bad news all the way around.


    **OH BTW ** when you install the new one use never seaze on the splines after you clean them well with a wire brush to get all the crud and rust out.
    Hope this helps
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #10
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    Mar 2000
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    Default

    I've always known well in advance when I had to change one, and what worked well for me was to spray Aero-Kroil onto the arm & shaft every day before doing the job. Other good penetrating oils are Loosey-Goosey and PB B'laster. You know it's good, it says "As Seen On TV!" on the can!

    The heavy-duty OTC Pitman arm puller works great. If it comes off very hard try tightening the heck out of the forcing screw then, using a small hammer (16oz), tap the side of the Pitman arm. Tighten the forcing screw some more and tap it again. Don't be afraid to pour the penetrating oil on, either!
    Phil

    '90 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2l, AX15, Dana 30 & 35 with 3.07s (for now!) 4" Rough Country lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s

    '91 F350 XLT Lariat crew cab, 2WD SRW, 7.3l IDI, ZF S5-42, 3.55 LSD.

  11. #11
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    Sep 2001
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    Concord, NC, USA
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    Guess I've been lucky as my pitman arms have always slid right off with just a little bit of pry bar help. Like Robyn said, remove the bolt. I spent a good amount of time trying to remove an arm while the bolt was still in place only to realize that the bolt goes through an indent on the pitman shaft. Once I discovered my stupidity, I pulled the bolt out and the arm practically fell off. Keep trying, you'll get it.
    Mark Chapman DP member #653;
    1983 K2500 6.2 Suburban, 4" lift, 35" tires, ATS turbo, Banks exhaust/intake, pyrometer, tachometer;
    1986 K5 6.2 Blazer, 2" lift, 33" tires, Banks intake, pyrometer, tachometer
    1963 wife, one owner, average mileage for the age but in excellent shape, a keeper
    1992 daughter, low mileage, pretty, limited edition, but requires some money to maintain
    1995 son, sports model, very fast & peppy, time will tell on durability and maintenance costs

    "Grease is good"

  12. #12
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    Mar 2000
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    Default

    Ok, changing out tie rod ends, pitman arm, and idler arm. Going somewhat smoothly so far. Having the proper tools always helps. But to remove either the steering box or the idler box, the top bolts are hidden behind the fender panel?!? Is that right? Pulling the glow plugs on the passenger side awhile back I also seemed to be having access problems compared to other people's descriptions. I can't imagine that the body was lowered over the frame by a previous owner, but something just seems screwy here...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  13. #13
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    Down to just removing the pitman arm. Man is that thing a bugger! Cannot get a puller in because of the brace below the steering box. Unbolted the steering box, but cannot figure out how to turn it because of the diagonal brace from the lower brace to the frame... Soaked the pitman arm down with penetrating oil last night and am going to give it another try this morning, but I think the next step is pulling the steering box completely out so that I can pull the pitman arm on the bench...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbankii
    Soaked the pitman arm down with penetrating oil last night and am going to give it another try this morning, but I think the next step is pulling the steering box completely out so that I can pull the pitman arm on the bench...
    Thats what I ened up doing. I was a lot easyer on the tail gate than under the truck. Almost fell of once out. Must have been one of those little gremlins hiding in there just to T me off!
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  15. #15
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    Jul 2006
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    Fort McMurray, AB,CA
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    Snap on pitman arm puller. Mine has done about 20 so far and never had a problem. No cutting, heating required. Just pop off the pitman to steering rod end, unbolt box from the frame, shove it up forwards, then put the puller on and hit it with a 1/2 inch impact.

  16. #16
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    Haven't been able to get back to this. Last week the job hit me with working seven days a week for the next month or more... Which is a whole 'nuther hassle...

    Might have to look at the SnapOn puller, though. I have the Kent Moore puller and there is no way to get the steering box to move far enough to get the puller on. Although, the other item added to the mix is the snow plow mount. Maybe that is interfering with things if I'd try to pull the box forward... I've tried turning the box clockwise, so the shaft points towards the engine but that doesn't give enough clearance.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbankii
    Haven't been able to get back to this. Last week the job hit me with working seven days a week for the next month or more... Which is a whole 'nuther hassle...

    Might have to look at the SnapOn puller, though. I have the Kent Moore puller and there is no way to get the steering box to move far enough to get the puller on. Although, the other item added to the mix is the snow plow mount. Maybe that is interfering with things if I'd try to pull the box forward... I've tried turning the box clockwise, so the shaft points towards the engine but that doesn't give enough clearance.
    I just used a standard puller and almost didn't need it AFTER getting the steering box out on the tail gate (work bench). I thought it was going to be a chore to get the box out of the frame, but it's not all that bad. You can probably have it all done in an hour or so.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  18. #18
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    I am going to try to get out there tonight and give it another go. Just too many things going on and all hitting at once lately...

    I started to remove the lines to the power steering box, but was ending up twisting the line itself - there is some rust and I guess it is getting stuck in the ferrule. If I can get the pitman arm off without removing the steering box it would help. May end up replacing the lines too if I have to take the box out...
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  19. #19
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    I always turn the pitman away from the engine when doing mine.

  20. #20
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    Finally got back around to working on this. Put in over 100 hours of overtime in June and was working seven days a week... Sort of sucked... And on salary, so not even any extra $$$ for truck parts or anything...

    But finally managed to get the pitman arm off. I'm not sure if some of the people are talking 2WD as far as turning the steering box. With 4WD I just didn't seem to have that option. The cross braces from the frame to the cross piece under the engine just wouldn't allow much movement. I finally disconnected the one line from the steering box to the brake booster and that allowed me to pull the box far enough forward to clear the cross piece under the engine and just barely get the pitman arm puller on. Cranked it down and it sounded like a gunshot when it broke loose. After that, putting it all back together went pretty quickly. Took Robyn's advice of coating the splines with anti-sieze before reassembling it in case it has to come off again in the future.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

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