Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: What tools do I need to remove the rear disk brakes?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default What tools do I need to remove the rear disk brakes?

    There are several late model 2500’s in out tank salvage yard over here. Most of them are 2005 and up. I want to pull the rear disk brakes off of a few of them. What tools will I need for that? I need the specific tools and only the tools required. I will have to borrow them so I can only get the ones I absolutely need. I want to pull the bracket, caliper, and rotor. Will I have to remove the hub as well? If so, will that require a special hub socket? Also, if any of you have any photographs of what all is involved, that would be a big help. I have never messed with one of these AAM axles or a late model Chevy.


    Thank you for your help.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    This is one example of what I will be working with.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    oxford me
    Posts
    162

    Default

    no u dont have to pull the hub just the pieces u described.i believe the bracket the caliper bolts to is held on by 2 bolts which u will need a 18mm socket for. the caliper bolts or slide pins are 15mm i think but not entirely sure on that one
    #1 01 dmax xcab 251000 miles and climbing
    #2 06 dmax crew cab 66000 miles 2009 polaris dragon 800sp 89 suzuki 500 quadracer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    Thanks. Knowing I do not have to pull the hub is a big help. I am going to try and head out there this morning to get them.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    South Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    245

    Default rear disc brakes

    I did mine on an '01 K2500HD; no, to replace the rotors you don't have to pull the hub from the spindle. However, if you intend on replacing the parking brake shoes it may help. There is a special spanner socket used for adjusting the tension on the outer hub bearing however.

    Does your hub seal leak (either side)? My left side req'd replacement; I understand this was a common problem.
    "Chessy56"
    So. Milwaukee, WI
    '01 2500HD, LB7, ~440K miles
    "Stock" engine. Dual fuel filtration system with Kennedy lift pump, BF Goodrich Commercial T/A Traction tires (sold to a dude from Texas- it's living a warmer life just fine down there now!).

    '17 2500HD, L5P (Happy Birthday/Merry Christmas to me!!!) Currently bone stock, 120K miles.

    "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and
    the gospel of envy. Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
    Winston Churchill

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    I went out yesterday and tried to pull the whole assembly. I was unable to because my forklift broke. So I had the operator take it to the shop and I pulled the hydroboost instead. From what I saw, the hub does have to be removed. If so, I may has well hang it up. I was thinking about pulling the whole rear end and taking it some where I can work on it over time. But with out that tool, it will be a wast of time. Does any one have the part number or manufacturer of that tool?

    I was going to post photographs, but the site will not allow me to.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    The socket is needed for assembly torque. [I don't recommend this] It can be disassembled with a punch and hammer, if the need arises. A piece of 3/8-1/2" round stock can be substituted for the punch. It'll need to be 8" or longer. Both sides are RH threads.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    So after I pull the axles, all I need to do is pull that hub nut and I am done? If that is the case, I can still pull this off. I did not realize the rear hubs came off that easily.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    It isn't "that easy", so to speak. The punch can be used to loosen the lock nut (chisel it around, not cut it). If all you are doing is robbing parts, and don't need to salvage the nuts, you can do it w/o a socket. That's all. It's a matter of convenience, and will usually damage/destroy the nut (or the hub/bearing if you miss).

    Once you remove the hub nut, the hub and bearings will come off. The E-brake may hang up if it's adjusted tight or rusty, but it will come off with enough "persuasion".

    Just curios, but why are you pulling a "few" rear disk brakes?

    Also, if you can salvage the E-brake shoes and hardware (if they're in good shape), you may want to collect those, as well. They are very pricey (3X more than the service brake pads).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    I got a good look at it the other day. The only things I am not taking is the rotors becuase they are damged. It looks as though the truck was pulled with no rear tires or rims. I want to perform some rear disc conversions when I get home. So if I can pull these parts that have few miles on them all it will cost me is the shipping back to the states. And if I spread it out for a while (becuase I will not be going home any time soon) the boxes will not be that heavy.

    I am pretty sure I know what you are saying about the hub nut. I have had to use a hammer and puch to take apart fron hubs before. I prefer a hub nut socket. But sometime you have to work with what you have on hand.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Yep!

    "One piece at a time...and it didn't cost me a dime..." (Johnny Cash)

    Got a big lunch box?
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus GA.
    Posts
    725

    Default

    She shipping will sick, but it will still be a lot less then buying a bolt on kit.

    All I was able to get today was one rotor and one caliper. I pulled the axle and the hub nut came out with my fingers. But, I cannot get the hub off now. Plus, one 24MM nut is in such a tight place I have nothing that will work. I have to try and locate a very long box wrench.
    1995 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually with a 7.3 liter Powerstroke
    198? Chevy aircraft tugger with a 6.2 liter "Tugger"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •