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Thread: 6.2 to a 6.5TD swap

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Yessss
    The mechanical IP uses the cold advance and fast idle.

    Simply reconnect the wires that came off the switch on the RH rear of the head by the glow plug.

    The wires at the IP split and connect to the cold advance solenoid and to the fast idle solenoid.

    A manual momentary switch is the best for the glow system.

    A Ford starter relay and a momentary button to activate it.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    The sensor in the radiator is the coolant level sender. Keep it clean. There is no temp sender in the radiator, ever, unless you put one there.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #43

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    I got another one... My Chiltons book says to torque the glow plugs to 156 inch pounds or something like that. When I was installing them it seemed like I could screw them all the way through the head, they did not want to bottom out. I kinda backed out of it once the shoulder of the glow plug was recessed into the head. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again, you've been a huge help to me.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    12,282

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    Make sure the plugs you are using are the same design/size as the originals.

    AC Delco 60G plugs are the real deal and will fit correctly.


    The factory plugs that have been used over the years all look the same physically, but have different internals.


    Please post a piccy of the plugs you are using for us to see.
    (Lay a used plug with it)

    The hex portion of the plug should stay outside the head casting.

    The proper plugs will have a tapered seat that seals against the head.

    Place one of your new plugs alongside an old one and note the difference (if any)
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #45

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    I'll do that. They are glow plugs that came with the long block, I guess I was just assuming he sent me ones appropriate for the engine he sold me.

    I got the engine in the truck yesterday! I am still waiting on my injection pump though. Apparently Peninsular is having troubles getting it from standadyne at the moment, It was ordered back in April.

    Thanks and have a great 4th!
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  6. #46

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    Figured out the glow plugs, they are not AC delco but visually I see no difference. I pulled an AC Delco out of the 6.2 and put it in the new engine and it went in past the threads before bottoming out, putting a new glow plug in the 6.2 bottomed out with 2ish threads still showing. The new glow plugs in the new engine bottomed out past the threads. Seems like a minor variation in the heads.
    I plumbed in the new oil cooler today. The 6.2 had plumbing that routed oil through the radiator as well as an oil cooler. The supplier of the new oil cooler, (I ordered one for a 6.5) said the 6.5 only used the oil cooler and that I shouldn't need to run it through the radiator as well. So I plan on using the oil cooler only. Does it matter the direction the oil goes through the oil cooler? It seems to me that as long as it passes through the fins it will cool down. I don't know what the official "in" and "out" of the block or the oil cooler is; and does it matter? Thanks again for all your help. Wish I had an injection pump...
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

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    Watch eBay
    I bought 2 DB2931 new military pumps,each one was less than $200 delivered to my post office.
    The military pumps have ceramic pistons and plungers.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  8. #48

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    I got one ordered, just waiting on it to arrive.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Sounds like things are progressing well now.

    Unless the cooler is marked with IN/OUT specific ports then it will make no difference.


    Keeping the oil out of the radiator is a better way to go as the hot oil just adds more heat to the stack is all.

    The later 6.5 rigs have the oil cooler ahead of the AC condenser behind the grill.

    The cooler is approximately a foot square is all.

    I would use the stainless braided oil lines with the JIC fittings as the stock lines are crap and will leak in due time.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #50

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    That is what I've got going on, Braided line and all! I'm having my power steering hoses made up in braided line as well. Turns out it wasn't that much more expensive than buying stock ones, who doesn't love braided line? I'm back out to work on Tuesday, hopefully I'll have an injection pump when I get back and can finally finish this project up. Here's a few pictures.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Looking great

    Gotta love the Square body trucks.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Feeniks, Aridzona
    Posts
    1,114

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    Make sure you secure those braided lines so they do not rub. One of my power steering pressure lines was rubbing on my inner fender and it actually rubbed through the braid and exposed the inner teflon liner which then burst and I lost power steering and power brakes at the same time.
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  13. #53

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    Thanks for the warning!
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  14. #54

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    Hello all,

    Just got back home from work and heard that my IP will be shipping today. Which leads to the next question...What is the process for correctly installing this thing? Specifically the timing of the engine to the IP?
    Thanks.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Hey...Sounds good

    To get the IP on the engine and timed.


    Make sure the timing gears on the cam and crank are set correctly.

    Align the dot on the IP gear with the cam gears dot.

    Insert the IP into the timing cover and over the studs.

    The drive flange on the IP has a bolt pattern that will only align one way with the gears bolt holes.

    Some IP'S have a pilot stud that indexes the flange and the gear.

    Be sure to use BLUE loctite on the bolts that hold the gear to the IP.

    If a bolt drops out it gets UGLY.

    Your fresh IP should have an indexing mark on the top of the flange that bolts to the timing cover.

    Align the mark on the pump with the mark that should be on the cover.

    If no marks present then set the pump as close to straight up as possible.

    Getting the timing tweaked will be a bit of guess work after you light the beast off.

    ***** Don't forget the gasket between the IP and the timing cover *****

    Use a little high temp silicone between the gasket and the cover ONLY so the pump can be moved later.

    Use a bit of light grease or vaseline on the pump flange so it will move to adjust timing LITTLE BITTY SMEAR ONLY.
    You just want to be sure the gasket stays stuck to the case and the pump will move easily when needed.

    Don't tighten the retaining nuts real tight until the engine is running and the timing is set.

    SNUG will do for now, but DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS FULLY LATER

    Once the timing is where you want it place a chisel across the pump flange and cover and strike to make a clean sharp witness mark for future reference.

    If the cover and the IP have marks USE THEM AS A REFERENCE TO START FROM.

    For initial start up

    With glow plugs OUT and fuel to the IP spin the engine with the starter until fuel blows out the glow plug holes big time.

    Install plugs and go for a start.

    This is a fast and easy way to get a fresh engine up and going without frying the starter, batteries and your patience.

    Once running smooth, if there is white smoke it means you need to advance the IP some.


    Good luck
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  16. #56

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    Thank you,
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  17. #57

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    My IP and misc. parts arrived a few days ago so I'm back at it. And of course it has created some more questions.

    The injectors a bit shorter than the ones out of the 6.2 I assume this is a 6.2 to 6.5 difference and I shouldn't be alarmed. This all came from Peninsular, and I get the impression they are pretty legit. In my box of goodies there was a little bag of 16 copper or brass rings that would appear to go on the base of the injectors. Is this so? why are there 16?

    I got the IP mounted, it seemed a little to easy...that always worries me. I am attaching some pictures.

    I got a new vacuum pump today, I went with the gear driven style from a 6.2. There is one stub to attach a hose coming off the diaphragm housing thing thing. It is labeled inlet...? I guess that is because that is where a vacuum is getting pulled into? It is huge compared to the little tiny vacuum hose coming out of the fire wall. And I, with my incredible foresight, got rid of all my 6.2 leftovers last week to make room in the garage...besides the visual reference angle, there was a $15 core charge for said vacuum pump. Oh well.

    Anyway, thanks for all your help so far. I would have been having a real hard time without all your help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

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    Somewhere around 1988, the long body injectors were changed over to the short body injectors. The long and short body injectors will interchange. It is the vans (all years) and turbocharged trucks that need the short injector for clearance.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Pix look spot on.

    The injectors are different between the early 6.2 and the 6.5 (Short/long thing)

    Which injector lines do you have ???

    The line sets are also different as well.

    If your lines are for the long injectors (taller) they may not reach the shorter injectors.

    There were some changes in the injectors when GM introduced the turbo in 1992.

    They needed room for the exhaust manifold to clear the injectors on the RH side and shorter injectors were used along with the matching line set.

    If you have to changes the lines you must keep them as matched sets (All 8)

    Every line is exactly the same length ( This is why the goofy bends and coils in the lines)

    The reason is ignition timing, and the length of the line changes(can change) the time it takes the pressure pulse to reach the injector.

    So if you run into issues and need to swap lines, just be sure you get a complete set.

    If scavenging off a used engine be sure to remove in the pairs they are in and label the sets (2-4....6-8....1-3... 5-7)

    The lines were ORIGINALLY clamped in pairs.

    There are a couple lines that can be mixed up, but most really only fit in one spot, or at least properly fit.


    Using the rubber isolators and the sheet metal U clamps to retain the lines is a good idea as this stops the lines from vibrating and possibly cracking.

    THE VACUUM HOSE.
    Originally there was a rubber adapter that connected the tiny plastic line that feeds the HVAC system to the pump.

    Depending on the particular truck and which tranny it has there can be a vacuum line that goes to A CONTROL VALVE on the IP to run the vacuum modulator on the Auto trans (TH-400)

    You can fabricate what you need to get your lines connected using off the shelf rubber vacuum hose fittings.

    A little imagineering will suffice

    Not sure why you received 16 copper rings.
    A ring goes between the injector and the head.

    Using the proper socket for installing the injectors is preferred, but you can do it with a wrench on the bottom of the injector body.

    Good luck
    Keep us in the loop.

    Robyn
    Last edited by Robyn; 08-14-2017 at 06:34.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  20. #60

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    Sounds like things are right for now. The injection lines, injectors, IP gear, IP and hold down clips all came together from Peninsular.
    I'll be out with the family for the next week.
    Thanks again.
    85 crew cab one ton, 4x4. 6.2 diesel w/ 4 speed manual. Ranger overdrive/gear splitter installed. 2" rough country lift kit.

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