Pitman arm removal

[Rot Box]

I just changed mine about 2 weeks ago, and it wasn't fun My dealer said to use a pickle fork and an air hammer .........yeah right!

First loosen the box and large nut on the pitman arm, (don't remove the steering shaft) and point the pitman arm shaft towards the engine. Then buy a pitman arm puller from a parts store (its easy to identify the one that works the best. Their relatively short and have 2 ears with a large center bolt) Now for the fun part..... using a grinder or die grinder cut into the pitman arm towards the center splined shaft, but of course don't cut too far. Then when you have cut as much as you dare put the puller on it and it should come off. If yours has been changed recently then skip the grinder part, but if it was like mine you will just brake the puller (I broke 2 ) if you don't cut into the pitman arm. Good Luck! also look for the thread I posted about 2 weeks ago I't might help you some more
P.S. if you plan on keeping your truck then Anti-Sieze will be your best friend for re-assembly so it's not such a pain next time.

[ronniejoe]

You need a better puller...

I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.

[Rot Box]

You need a better puller...

I didn't need to grind on mine and do not recommend grinding on anyone else's. A good puller will bring it right off.

The first puller i broke was made in Taiwan so that probably had something to do with it, but the second one was good USA steel. I also had a large C-clamp wrapped around it to keep it from bending outwards. The threads started to strip right before the ear snapped off. I couldn't believe how much pressure was on it.
I agree that I shouldn't have suggested grinding on it.. that was a big mistake. I personally found that to be twenty times easier than putting a puller under that much stress not to mention the other tools involved. I will stand by this when I say that some are worse than others in my case it was OEM equiptment from 95 and I live in the rust belt. I figured the grinder idea was a lot better than some of the Ideas a couple "profesional alignment shops" suggested to me: Like torching it off, or the pickle fork air hammer idea or my favorite: "just use a punch and sledge hammer"
Bottom line: Use your best judgement and don't compromise safety.

[a5150nut]

I had allready tried a pickle fork just to have the houseing give before the pitman arm. Thought about heat, but then there is a seal all too close. I just hoped there was an easyer method...........short of removing the box! Now where did I leave the Dynamite and blasting caps............? I know they are arround here somewhere.

[Warren96]

Thats how i did mine.Take your time, when you get near the end mine made a pop and the last 1/8th of an inch just cracked.If you cut the pitman twice you don't even have to loosen the steering box.No torches, no sledgehammers, just patience! Good luck and keep us posted!

[JoeyD]

Snap on has a nice puller. I just did mine as well and was not that bad. Remove the bolts holding the box on then twist it a little bit and put the puller in place then crank it off.
If you pitman arm is bad check your idler arm as it easy to do at the same time.

[derekja]

Hmm, how strange and scary!

I was expecting a major battle with the pitman arm. Instead it popped out of the relay arm without issue, then I carefully undid the steering box and rotated it to get access to the pitman arm, undid the bolt with little more than finger pressure, and then the pitman arm just kind of fell off while I was adjusting the gear puller.

Should I be worried about the steering box?

I guess I'll not look a gift horse in the mouth and will just replace the pitman and idler and torque them down to spec.

Wow.