Jeep Grand Cherokee

[HH]

The 6.2 is bolted in and ready to go......well almost. Still have to put in new trans and sort out the electrical & linkage issues. The swap has been pretty straight forward.

Still need to work on a couple items.

1. Can I put a switched 12volts to the pink wire, which goes to the 2 pin coolant sensor and then to the IP? How does this work with the cold idle? I am planning to tap into the Grand Cherokee's hot coil wire.

2. On this 1983 6.2l engine the fuel line going from the mechanical pump to the filter on the rear of the engine there is a bulge in the fuel line with a wire? I assume this may be a "water in fuel indicator", and if so how does it work and how should I run the wire? If not what is it for?

3. Can I plumb my heater return hose into the passenger side port on the waterpump or should I "T" into the one between the waterpump and thermostat? Or do I need to "T" it into the upper radiator hose?

Thanks for the help.

[HH]

Guess I have not updated this in a while. I have the engine, trans, and TC all mounted and fit pretty good. Real close on the PS pump and exhaust manifolds, about 1/2" clearance here, and 1/2" clearance there...

I am using a 700R4 trans and a 241 TC. The engine is a tight fit. I had to massage the firewall a bit to get it where I wanted. I would have liked it a bit more 1/2" or so to the passenger side, as the stock engine is offset that way. It ended up pretty close to the centerline of the vehicle. Some custom exhaust manifolds might have made this a little easier.

Interferences I had to deal with included the firewall, steering gearbox, and the control arms. The front differential moves to the passenger side as it comes up. The way I have it now the driver side control arm is very close to the exhaust manifold on full compression, I intend to either extend the bump stop or add a budget boost. It is also close to the oil pan, I think if I hit a large bump it would leave a mark.

The motor mounts were the hardest part. The 5.2l engine has mounts at the front of the engine. I made some flat plates welded to square tube which mounted to the engine and the frame mounts. The frame mounts were out of the pickup I took the engine from. I trimmed them and flipped them over to fit the Jeep.

I replaced the manual fuel pump with a GM diesel electric pump from a 1993, can always share parts with the K3500. The manual pump was in the way of the engine mounts. I could put plates on front of the engine like a drag car, but I am trying to use what I have.

The fittings from the diesel PS pump worked with the ZJ PS box, with some rebending and fitting. I used a hydro-brake booster from a diesel van, and got rid of the ZJs ABS. I had to make a mount to make the hydro-boost and master cylinder fit. Made some new brake lines and adapted them to the stock lines at the point where they came out of the ABS block.

I was able to use the TC linkage with a little modification, I had some linkages off a Cherokee that bolted to the TC and worked with the ZJs shifter, what luck! It appears to work OK.

Over the last month, I added a deep trans pan, added trans shifter linkage, ordered a shift cable, mounted the engine and trans oil coolers and ran the hoses and lines.

Had to run the engine oil cooler lines up the back of the engine and over the top around the radiator and AC condenser. Added some cooling holes to the bumper (150!) and front fascia.

Here are a couple before and after pics of the coolers. Not much longer and it should be ready to fire up.

[JeepSJ]

Packaging is always difficult! And you have less room to work with than I did. Looking good so far!

[AKMark]

Nice, almost did that to a lifted 94, but realized the straight six would cause it to roll a little to the right when you hit the throttle and wondered what would happen with more torque.

I put a 5-speed in it, but never got ambitious enough for a Diesel. Should work well though!

[HH]

Installed the trans shift cable the other night. Used a 6 foot universal cable from B&M with threaded ends. Bought a spring loaded quick disconnect end for the shifter side. I found a quick disconnect that fit the ball socket on the stock shifter at a marine supply store, had two choices, of course the first was wrong. I made a mount for the cable out of some 2" angle and secured it to the floor. The mount on the trans was from B&M. Ran the cable through the stock location and reused the firewall grommet and heat protection. I used the stock shifter lever and linkage. I had to do a little grinding to get the shifter to move far enough so I could get the transmission in first, it would have worked fine the way it was, but IF I ever need 1st it will be nice to have.

[HH]

Here is a link to a rough write up and more photos of the Diesel Jeep.

[HH]

Have not done much since August, back to work full time and working at the second job also. Been playing around with the wiring. Bought a converter from Dakota Digital to convert the signal from the flywheel to the signal the computer is expecting, 8p/rev. Bought a sensor that will count the teeth on the flywheel, send the signal to the Dakota Digital box and then to the Jeep computer. Decided to mount the batteries in the rear and run the battery cables along the frame rail up under the wheel well into the battery box.

I picked up some great used Firestone tires 215/85R16 and mounted them on Ford 16" Aluminum rims. Looks like I will have to trim the front bumper slightly. I also picked up some 3:07 gears for the rear Dana 35.

My hope is to get this fired up and running before winter, but working the two jobs and some freelance work is making it tough.