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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default Jeep Grand Cherokee

    I am going ahead with converting a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee to diesel using a 6.2. I have the engine in, it is a tight fit and took some massaging of the sheetmetal. I still need to fab some engine mounts and get everything aligned right, but it appears to fit, barely!
    Couple Questions.....for now.

    1. Can I use the in-tank fuel pump to replace the mechanical? I need to remove the mechanical pump as I believe it will interfere with the engine mount. The engine mount has to be farther forward due to the front differential trailing arm mount. Or should I just buy a lift pump from a 90s truck?

    2. To gain some hood clearance, can I use a turbo style intake? My thought is to run a tube to an air box. I have the old intake off my K3500 6.5, but I need the hat.

    3. For the cabin heater, can I run my heater hoses in and out of the left & right ports on the rear of the heads? Extra cooling when the heat is on ? Or how can I use the port on the front crossover like in the GM truck, as the Grand Cherokee radiator does not have a port for the heater return.

    4. Does anyone have a photo of the "V" belt routing on a 6.2 with AC? Photos of brackets?
    As this project progress I will post more info and pictures. It is still in a beginning stage and I am trying to get everything to fit. The PS pump is a close fit and the hose piping will need some reworking to fit. I plan to use the hydroboost and MC from the truck and eliminate the ABS on the Jeep. It should get real interesting when I get to the wiring. Hopefully I can transfer most of the Grand Cherokee wiring.

    The plan is to try and use what I have around here, 6.2, and a 700R4 from a 1983 2500. I want this to be a "budget build". I am still looking for a transfer case I can just bolt up. I am having the trans redone but I do not plan to redo the 6.2. I have an extra 6.2, 1985 military van, (it had a rod knock and then stopped running while idling one day when I went to move it, now appears to have locked), behind the barn which I can take parts from, which has already proven useful. Someone put new heads on it, but I think they did not put it back together right as almost every bolt I have taken off was partially lose or only hand tight.

    Thanks in advance for your help. Any other ideas or input is appreciated.

    Hans H.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Too bad you are so far from me. I have a 4L60 trans with a transfercase I'm trying to sell. Would work well behind a N/A 6.2.

    On to the questions.......

    I don't think your current intank pump would do well. The pressure is too high, and may not be compatible with #2. You could rig a pressure relief, but LP's are not too expensive, and the added points of failure may not be worth the headache. If you have to switch to an electric pump, be sure to incorporate a fail-safe. A late model oil pressure switch and relay will do this well, or you could get the complete package from JK, but it won't be a budget purchase. You will also have to include a return line back to the tank, if it doesn't already have one.

    I would not use the turbo intake. The cross section is too small for N/A, and would create more restriction than a larger, more open N/A intake. You'll probably have to fab your own, which isn't to hard. It isn't rocket science.

    Pulling coolant from the rear of the head(s) will starve the cylinders of coolant flow. You'll have to get the heater line off the pump, like it is already.

    No V-belt photo, but I think there are some in the Photo Album.

    There are a bunch of transer case options. Be sure to compare the driveline output sides before you commit to one. It would be pretty discouraging to find they don't match, after it's too late. Which side is the diff? It may narrow your options. I have both, but shipping would negate any advantage. The tranny adapter and spline will also have to match, and they are dependent on the tranny.

    Sounds like a fun project. Good luck!
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Feeniks, Aridzona
    Posts
    1,114

    Default

    With the 700R4, go look for a NP241 transfer case. It will be a driver's side front output which is what you need for the ZJ. They are installed in the IFS GM/Chevy 4x4 trucks and should be plentiful in wrecking yards.
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JeepSJ
    With the 700R4, go look for a NP241 transfer case. It will be a driver's side front output which is what you need for the ZJ. They are installed in the IFS GM/Chevy 4x4 trucks and should be plentiful in wrecking yards.
    Exactly what I was thinking or a NP231, but I think the NP241 is more HD.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Feeniks, Aridzona
    Posts
    1,114

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HH
    Exactly what I was thinking or a NP231, but I think the NP241 is more HD.
    Correct. 241 was used in the full sized trucks and the 231 was used in the mid-sized trucks - S10, S15, etc...
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    The 6.2 is bolted in and ready to go......well almost. Still have to put in new trans and sort out the electrical & linkage issues. The swap has been pretty straight forward.

    Still need to work on a couple items.

    1. Can I put a switched 12volts to the pink wire, which goes to the 2 pin coolant sensor and then to the IP? How does this work with the cold idle? I am planning to tap into the Grand Cherokee's hot coil wire.

    2. On this 1983 6.2l engine the fuel line going from the mechanical pump to the filter on the rear of the engine there is a bulge in the fuel line with a wire? I assume this may be a "water in fuel indicator", and if so how does it work and how should I run the wire? If not what is it for?

    3. Can I plumb my heater return hose into the passenger side port on the waterpump or should I "T" into the one between the waterpump and thermostat? Or do I need to "T" it into the upper radiator hose?

    Thanks for the help.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

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