On the 99 Burb the AC seems to take forever to get cold comming out or under the dash. The rear seems to be real cool real quick. The kids are freezing and we are sweating for a while. Eventually it will cool down some but never as cool as the rear.
On the 99 Burb the AC seems to take forever to get cold comming out or under the dash. The rear seems to be real cool real quick. The kids are freezing and we are sweating for a while. Eventually it will cool down some but never as cool as the rear.
1999 K1500 Sub, Wont tow but what a family car
1999 Dodge 3500 4x4 6sp Cummins, with the needed goodies
2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto Cummins, Will make even a Cummins engineer smile
2001 Silverado 2500HD D/A CC 4x4 shortbed, Finally able to test the JK reprogram.......
System is a little low on refrigerant.
The back one is hogging all the flow and leaving the front one without enough flow.
The rear AC uses an expansion valve while the front uses an orfice tube.
The tube must see liquid passing through or you get little to no cooling. Use a parts store add a can unit and bleed in a little at a time though the low side fitting. (Cold) until the unit up front blows cold. You should hook up a set of gauges but you can w.a.g it and get close enough. (A/C must be running to add 134a)
When the refrigerant fill is correct both should blow ice cold.
Good luck
Robyn
Last edited by Robyn; 09-25-2007 at 19:48. Reason: addition/spelling
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Shows how much I know about AC. I would assume that if it was low both would have diminished the same amount. I guess I will put a can in it and see what happens. The hose kit I have is one of those cheapies with a guage so I will be able to watch the pressure. THANKS!!
1999 K1500 Sub, Wont tow but what a family car
1999 Dodge 3500 4x4 6sp Cummins, with the needed goodies
2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto Cummins, Will make even a Cummins engineer smile
2001 Silverado 2500HD D/A CC 4x4 shortbed, Finally able to test the JK reprogram.......
The rear one has the expansion valve and when the rear fan is activated the valve will allow flow and this deprives the front unit of liquid.
My Burb was the same way after I recharged the system and I had to go back and add a bit more.
I dont have a scale to weigh the 134 into the sytem so I just watch the pressures and when its good and cold and the clutch is cycling about right I call it good.
I KNOW its not the best way but I have done these this way for years and never had one lick of trouble. Just dont over charge the beast. That can stall the compressor and cause hate and discontent as your serp belt fries to a cinder.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Mark,
An observation from my 99 Suburban. We had to replace the compressor last year. So, we think the charge is close to correct.
Here is what we have seen both prior to and after the compressor changeout.
Even on hot days around where we live, >100F, if the trip is reasonably long, the kids complain that they are getting cold. Like you, we're still sweating. The windows in the rear doors and back are tinted very dark. the front windows are quite clear, as per CHP requirements. We think that the dark tinting is preventing most of the heat from penetrating the cab in the back, and the rear evap unit is doing a very good job. The front allows the infrared to come in and keep us warm. With out the infrared to keep warming up the inside, the kids get cold. During this summer, while on vacation, I had to turn up the heat to keep the kids from going into suspended animation.
We also were able to ice over the evaporators regularly during the trip.
HammerWerf
1999 k2500 Suburban Pyro, Tranny Temp, Boost, K&N Air Filter, +3.5 qt tranny pan. 190000 miles
1984 C20 249k miles DSG gear, SM-465, 3.73
1983 C30 CC dualie. 308K miles on Chassis, TH400, 4-45 A/C Looking for a TurboCharger
The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!
If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?
Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510
The difference in the air temp exiting the front vents is much warmer than the air coming out of the upper rear vents. I am going to check the charge when I get a chance.
1999 K1500 Sub, Wont tow but what a family car
1999 Dodge 3500 4x4 6sp Cummins, with the needed goodies
2000 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto Cummins, Will make even a Cummins engineer smile
2001 Silverado 2500HD D/A CC 4x4 shortbed, Finally able to test the JK reprogram.......
On a 90 F day my DaHooooley will blow air out the front vents at between 37-41 degrees depending on how I am traveling. slow slogging in traffic and it will warm some, say maybe to 45.
Long periods of idleing will cause it to warm more due to a lack of airflow over the coils out front.
Hope this helps
Robyn
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Some time ago I had an AC problem, turns out the AC required much more of a R-134a charge after filter/dryer change out and both ac's must be set to high. Note:filter dryer was same size as one replaced. However, stickers for filter/dryer have correct updated charge data.
Over charge units & the ac will be real cold when first used but excessive pressure will shut system down.
99 GMC SUB, 2500, 4x4, 6.5 TD (F) #H32 enhanced blk, Phaser timing set, B&D IC, 3" ATS exh, K&N w/prefilter, 4WD NVG 246, 4L80E kevlar Transgo off road/tow mods/B&M supercooler, 14 FF MagTec w/locker 3.42:1, 9.25" IFS frt/diff 3.42:1 w/ARB locker, AutoMeter Boost & pre-turbo pyro meter, 12,000 lb hydro winch, Warn classic bumper w/brushguard & diesel scoop, Max E-torq Stage 3, hi pop inj, oil bypass sys, on board air comp for front ARB locker & tire inflation, DynaView driving/auto-cornering lts, DZ nerfs, A/T 285/75/16 SilentArmor 3750 lb rated on 3750 lb rated Alcoa, 3 IP drivers 2 r spares.
Oh yeah
Been there done that.
Sometimes compressor will even stall out if you get too much charge in the thing.
The best way is to weigh the charge going in on a dry system.
Unfortunately this is not possible when you are doing a partial charge.
Once you start seeing good gauge readings things should pop right into good order.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
I had the same problem with a cold cold rear a/c and a barely below ambient front. A re-chage helped a touch, but a new compressor was ultimately the answer. It's amazing what several hundred bucks can do for a car...
--Charles
www.youtube.com/dieselsailor
94 Sub 2500 4X4, 130k 3.73,19.5mpg hwy 12.5mpg tow,oil/diesel leaks fixed,(3-07),ES9000 Pro Comp Shocks!(4-07),amplifier on order!(4-07),New Lift Pump!(5-07),Ram-air/cold air intake!(5-07),Optima Red tops! (5-07),0 gauge battery/alternator custom lines! (6-07),New condenser & harmonic balancer (7/07),New rims and tires-265/75/r16! (7/07),Sound system done! (8/07),Alternator blown from sound system (8/07),160 amp alternator on order!
Planning: cooling upgrade, 4" exhaust, injectors, tow chip, triple gauge pillar, and gps in-dash.