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Thread: Torsion adjustment needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zionsville, IN
    Posts
    574

    Default Torsion adjustment needed

    My Sub is riding very high in the front, to the point that there is a ton of camber (both front tires lean out at the top). How do you go about adjusting the torsion bar?
    Jeffrey Todd
    _ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
    '96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy, on the cam/key bolts at the rear of the bars. It's much easier if the front end is jacked up by the chassis, with the load off the bars. Any explanation why it's so high? Did someone jack it up thinking it was cool, or what?
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zionsville, IN
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I noticed it was high, but just thought it was the rear springs sagging. Then I noticed that I am getting considerably more wear on the outer shoulders of the tires than the inner - not feathering like a toe condition. That is when I took a closer look at the camber.

    By cam key bolt, I take them to be the small bolts at the back of the torsion bar. What is the rule of thumb for turns=inches up or down?
    Jeffrey Todd
    _ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
    '96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Turns/inch is anybody's guess. Every truck is different, and other factors, like weight loading, accessories, etc, come into play. Loosen it 1 full turn each, drive it, park it, and check again. You can get your OEM Z height to set it to OEM spec, but that only applies if you have no suspension, wheel, or tire modifications, and OEM condition rear springs, and the vehicle is completely empty. The best you are going to do is trial/error on an older vehicle.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zionsville, IN
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I cranked it down a total of 4.5 turns on each side, over a couple of trials and test drives in between each turn. Dropped it about 1.5 inches, and is now just a little lower in the front than back. I don't think there is much adjustment left.

    I still have a bit of positive camber. Is that adjusted on the two arms of the upper A arm or on the wheel end?
    Jeffrey Todd
    _ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _
    '96 6.5TD GMC Suburban 2500 4x4 - 300,000 miles, JK remote FSD, Dual Thermostats

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Camber is adjusted on the upper control arm. Have this done during an alignment. Adjusting only the camber will also throw off the toe. If it was fine before, and now it's not, something came loose, broke, or wore out (or someone tried adjustment w/o an alignment). Better get it checked, in any case. When bushings wear out, the camber usually goes the other way. If the control arm cam is loose, it can "ratchet" out, but not on both sides (if they did, go to Vegas and bet the farm). Sounds like someone should have left the wrench in the box.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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