Shuts off while driving - Stalling

[Lug]

Fuel filter seems to have cured the stumble for right now. Filter didn't seem that bad, but the bottom of the bowl was full of heavy sediment.
Justin

[Steve_M]

'95 Suburban 2500 4x4. 104K miles, mostly towing. Intermittent stalls, both at speed and while coasting to a stop. Usually restarts easily, though on recent event it had a hard time restarting and when it did start it would go a couple hundred yards and stall again. Had it towed to the dealer that time and they replaced the lift pump. Ran fine for a month and then started stalling on my wife who promptly called me while I was on a business trip seeking ways to fix it?

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

I've gone through most of the "No Start, Stall, DTC 35 or P1216" tips, with the exception of the clear tube test for air in the injection system and the Circuit 439 test. I'm pretty confident that I'm not getting air in the injection as it shuts off abrubtly, whereas air in the injection system causes the engine to run rough or shudder. How the heck do you access the plug on the FSD to test for voltage on circuit 439 without removing the intake stuff above the injection pump?

Finally, there is an extended warranty coverage on the injection pump covering 11 years from the date of original sale or 120K miles. I'm the second owner so I might be past the 11 years, but definitely not 120K miles. I'm going to take it into the dealer first to see if they will just replace the injection pump. If not, I'm pretty sure it's the FSD and I will look into a new one mounted off the injection pump.

Comments/answers are appreciated.

[JohnC]

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

Yes, the same.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

The connector can be removed by using a long, thin screw driver to release the clip-lock on the side of the connector and levering the plug off the PMD. Be aware, the chances of getting it back on again successfully are somewhere between slim and none!

Good luck with the warranty. My guess is you are at or over the 11 year limit, but, the dealer has some lattitude to press for warranty coverage. If you have a relationship wit a dealer, that's the one you want to go to.

Sometimes the dealer wants to see stored fault codes, so, whatever you do, don't pull the fuel solenoid fuse and crank the engine, as it will set codes....

[BILLYDIESEL]

The 1994 Fuel Lift Pump System Operates On An Initial Fuel Prime When Starting And Then Is Controlled By The Engine Oil Pressure
Sensor When The Oil Pressure Has Reached About 40 To 60 Psi.
Check That First,if O.k Pump Is Going Down.
You Could Probably Put A New Driver On It.but Thats Just A Band Aid.

[ccraft12]

I have a 1997 2500 xcab, 65,000 miles, with the 190 hp version of the engine. I had the same intermittent stalling problems and it would start back up fine. I took it to the dealer and they checked the fuel flow and it was only the fuel filter. It has been three weeks since any stalling issues. Good luck.

[coastlogger]

I went through quite a performance with this problem and I really hate walking. To go along with this my tach started to act up although all the scantools said the senders were giving the right signal. The dealer mechanic said I needed a new instrument cluster. As it turned out we noticed that the charging rate seemed low so changed the alt. This cured the tach problem . Not sure why but one should not look a gift horse in the mouth.Didn't cure the no start/stall. I changed the ignition switch and have not had a problem since.I remote mounted the fuel driver several years ago but changed it and the pump at this time. The pump was getting close to expected life anyway.

[beh612]

I had trouble with my diesel shutting down. Changed the Oil sending unit and it has been 3 yrs with no other problems...... Also along the same subject I also had to run a new ground wire from near the Passenger side battery to the engine the braided ground had burnt all the fastening clips off. This new ground was done with a 12/2 romex house wire .... This also solved a shut down problem..... With the 6.5 TB diesel it doesnt hurt to pull the starter every year or slow or hard to start engine and have it redone this usually helps spin the engine a lot quicker....

[chitop1]

Hi, I need help. My truck is a 95 3500, it stalls only when its cold.
Most of the time it will start right up but will stall again. It will only run for about 30 to 40 seconds, then stall again. It will do this till I get the engine temp to 180 degrees, then it will run ok for the whole day. Sometimes it takes me 30 minutes to warm it up. Changed the feed pump and fuel filter already, still same problem.

[SteveJan]

Does outside ambient temperature have any bearing on stalling? It seems to act up when the temp. drops. It has been in the mid to upper 90's and it seem to run fine. Then when the temp drops to around 65-70 range, as it did last night the stalling starts. Or is this a coincidence? Sometimes it will restart right a way, other times it has to sit for a while a few minutes to 15 or 20 minutes.
I have a 1997 Chevy G2500 Van 6.5 Diesel. Replaced (under warranty) the injector pump in 05/01 at 48000 miles, Fuel lift pump 12/05 at 92000. Recently (last month) I replaced the oil pressure/lift pump switch at 107,000 miles (the black plastic covering was cracked/broken, don't know how, this was found out as I tried to remove the electrical connection). And last I replaced the fuel filter last week. The stalling continues. I'm guessing the FSD/PMD is the culprit, but the temperature thing is baffling me.

Thanks, Steve

[ronale]

Find fuel solenoid fuse 20A blown. Replaced fuse and tried to start engine.
Engine runs for a couple of seconds with rpm rising to 3000 (or more) and then shuts off again.Heavy grey smoke. No codes read in PCM. I am not able to read IP codes. Could this be a faulty FSD?


Ronale

[DmaxMaverick]

Not the FSD/PMD. Sounds like a bunch of air is getting in. Check your lift pump and its relay for proper operation.

[Robyn]

Definately be sure you are not getting air in the system.

The Blown fuse has me worried that there is something more serious going on here.
The fuse you replaced, was this for the fuel shutoff solenoid?
If the shut off solenoid goes down when the power is still on to the contols on the IP you can suck all the fuel from within the IP which would leave a void (air) the restart would be a bit bumpy but no biggy.

The solenoid is installed as a safety protocol in case there is another failure within the system. Without this device, a control failure could lead to a non controlable runaway.

The fuel shutoff solenoid may have a short in the coil. (little round unit on the front of the IP about 1" in diameter and 3 inches tall with wires coming out the upper side)

These can easily be replaced. Some times the air hat has to come off to get to the electrical plug though. Simply use a wrench or an allen key depending on the type yours has and unscrew the unit. (Wipe or blow off the area to get all dirt away) Make sure the large spring stays in the IP. Screw in the new solenoid, plug in and poof, all done.

I have had a go round with a PMD that did the scream and die thing.

I was testing some used PMD's that I got from a local shop that just replaces every one when they do a rebuild on a pump.

I was using my dually for the test and it runs great. I swapped in one PMD and the engine started, stubbled and then screamed with loads of smoke and then died.

I am not sure of exactly what goes on in the PMD to cause this but I have seen it first hand so I know it can happen.

Its an easy trick to swap in a fresh PMD and see what happens.

The New DTECH units are starting to get a good reputation.


I would definately sort out why the fuse was blown.

Possibly replace solenoid just because

Try a restart and go from there.

No codes on an OBD II system is fairly well indicative of an issue that the PCM is not actually controlling "Shut off solenoid"

The PMD can still cause issues and not trip a code even on an OBD II.

My bet is that your shut off solenoid has a short and caused the issue and the resulting "dry IP" resulted in the no fuel and subsequent wierd running and dieing.

Keep us posted

Best

Robyn

[ronale]

Thanks for reply.

The fuse replaced is in fuse-relay center underhood named 20A FUEL SOL.
According to electrical drawings the fuse is in same circuit as engine shut off solenoid (same as fuel shut off solenoid?) and FSD/PMD.
I measure the fuel shut off solenoid coil to be about 19 ohms, no short to chassis. I also applied 12V direct and I can hear it works.
This is leading me to the FSD/PMD in the same circuit. I will swap a known working PMD tomorrow.
Why do the engine speed up when starting without touching the accelerator and then shut off after 2 seconds with heavy grey smoke? Is there no control these 2 seconds of how much fuel is going to the cylinders?

I have not checked the fuel for air yet, I believe the fault is electrical.

Best

Ronale

[DmaxMaverick]

Thanks for reply.

The fuse replaced is in fuse-relay center underhood named 20A FUEL SOL.
According to electrical drawings the fuse is in same circuit as engine shut off solenoid (same as fuel shut off solenoid?) and FSD/PMD.
I measure the fuel shut off solenoid coil to be about 19 ohms, no short to chassis. I also applied 12V direct and I can hear it works.
This is leading me to the FSD/PMD in the same circuit. I will swap a known working PMD tomorrow.
Why do the engine speed up when starting without touching the accelerator and then shut off after 2 seconds with heavy grey smoke? Is there no control these 2 seconds of how much fuel is going to the cylinders?

I have not checked the fuel for air yet, I believe the fault is electrical.

Best

Ronale

This will rule out the PMD/FSD as the cause. Not to say the PMD isn't bad, but I see no indication of it yet, and it won't cause what you are seeing. The high RPM, gray smoke, then dying is a dead ringer for air. Electronics won't cause this.

[More Power]

Stanadyne Corp.
SERVICE LETTER 328R2 dated February 20, 2014

Stanadyne is changing the warranty coverage on DS Pump Mounted Drivers effective with PMD kits sold from March 1, 2014 forward. From that date forward, PMD kits 35976 and 40736 sold over the counter or not installed on the pump per the specification will be covered for a period of 30 days, unlimited miles. In addition, the warranty for PMD’s sold over the counter and/or improperly installed is limited to 1 free replacement PMD during the 30 day warranty period. Suspect PMD’s do not have to be returned to Stanadyne (unless we specifically request them for analysis) but as before, the proof of warranty documents must be emailed to warranty@stanadyne.com

The 2 years, unlimited miles coverage will continue to apply to complete new DS pumps with the PMD installed at the factory (and installed on the engine that way), and to replacement PMD’s that are installed on the pump to specification by the Authorized Dealer (and installed on the engine that way).

[Chevy4x494]

Can some one help me please im new to this truck i feel so stressed out im only 22 and stuck its my only truck and cant go no were when the temp hits normal from cold you put it in drive and theres not power just wants to bog out and stall with blue smoke but put it in park and minkey with the gas pedal and it will miss like mad but still the turbo is running but it will smoke black when doing this and it will go away and run fine but as soon as you try to drive it goes back to the boggy nes idk what to do