Whats needed to change fuel filter

[LEE BROWN]

I have an 06 Duramax and want to change the fuel filter myself. Are there any special tools needed and can anyone tell me how to do it or direct me to a link with instructions? Thanks

[Dakster]

A six pack and patience. Band aids and towels...

In all seriousness, it does go over the process in the Owner's manual. I haven't changed mine out yet (still under 5k miles). But it looks fairly simple and straight forward. The owners manual and some mechanic friends recommend taking off the front passeneger side fenderwell. I will do that the first time out and see if I can skip that step the next time. (Some claim to change it without removing the fenderwell)


I'm sure someone here will chime in with step-by-step instructions.

[Duramaster]

Hey DAKSTER! Try just taking the air intake tube off. The one between the air filter housing and the hard plastic intake piece.. I did that on a 2007 Sierra calssic and it worked great and I only need a 5/16 nut driver to remove it. This will also work on the 2006!!!

[DmaxMaverick]

The filters can be a bit of a PITA to replace, but it's not complicated. On my 2001, it's easy to replace w/o removing anything but the filter, but the 2001's have a bit more room in the area. Mine comes out through the top. Removing the fender liner makes it accessible in later model trucks, but some folks can get it out through the wheel opening by flexing the liner. Problem is getting it back in. Careful to not knock a bunch of dirt/stuff onto the filter before getting it engaged. For your first change, I suggest removing the liner. After that, you'll have a better look at it to help with future changes. Removing the liner is no big deal, so you may decide to just keep that strategy. For removal, you will very likely need a wrench, of sorts, to loosen it. I suggest a webbing type strap wrench. Mine is about as simple as it gets. It accepts a 1/2" drive extension, and I use an 18" breaker bar on top of the 10" extension. With the extension, you don't have to worry about dinging up anything while turning it, and sometimes it takes significant force. Use it from above or below, whichever is easiest. Here's a couple pics of what I use:






Step by step? OK.

Disconnect the WIF sensor harness. Just follow it from the bottom of the filter to the connector.

Place a container below the filter to catch the fuel you will drain from it (draining is not required, but a LOT less messy). Open the plastic thumbscrew drain valve at the bottom of the filter. If you have a piece of 1/4" hose laying around, it will slip onto the valve so you can direct the drain anywhere you want. Open/remove the top bleeder screw. Careful with this, it's plastic. Use a nut driver rather than a screwdriver to help prevent damage. Let it drain. Once the fuel stops draining, close the drain valve and remove your container. Immediately water-wash down any fuel that spills on the frame. The fuel will dissolve the wax coating, exposing bare steel to rust later.

Next, remove the filter. If it loosens by hand, all the better. It probably won't, so get the strap wrench on it and loosen until you can finish by hand. Be very careful with the WIF harness. Be sure it isn't between the filter and wrench when you loosen it. Once the filter is loose and out, inventory your seals. You will have a large O-ring and a grommet type seal. If the grommet isn't still attached to the center hole in the filter, fish it off the filter assembly nipple.

Replace the WIF sensor O-ring. Be careful with the fitting at the bottom of the filter, it's plastic. You can use a box wrench (don't know what size, but it's huge), water pump pliers (I don't recommend it, but I use it), or the best is a special wrench manufactured/sold by JK at www.kennedydiesel.com. Install the WIF fitting with the new supplied O-ring and some lube or grease. Don't overtighten, it's plastic and O-ring sealed.

Use some lube in the filter top groove to accept the large O-ring, and press the new O-ring into the groove. W/o lube or grease, the O-ring won't stay in place (holds a suction to keep it in). I use gear lube, but you can use axle grease, dielectric grease or motor oil. Thicker the better. Be sure the new rubber grommet is in the center hole of the filter top and smear some oil/lube on the inside.

Line up and thread the new filter onto the assy. Get it as tight as you can by hand. Some folks, like JK, stop there and say it works w/o leaking. I've never been so lucky. You can try it, but if you have "stalls after start", it's leaking and will either need the O-ring checked for proper install, or tighten it with the wrench. Again, be careful to not get the WIF sensor harness between the filter and wrench. Once it's tight, plug in the WIF harness and check the drain to be sure it's closed.

Open the top bleeder about 2-3 turns. Pump the primer until you see fuel (any squirt). Close the bleeder and pump again until it's hard (necessary to prime the HP pump). A LOT of pumping is not uncommon, like 100+ strokes.

Check for tools and start. A little RPM surging for about 30 seconds after start is normal while the system purges air. If it stays running and you don't have leaks, you're done. If you park it overnight (after being warmed up) and it starts then dies, you have an air leak. Loosen the filter and check the large O-ring. Make sure it stayed in the groove and retighten. Pump up the primer until hard and repeat starting.

That's it....I think. If I've left anything out, I'm sure someone will speak up.

[Mark Rinker]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...spagenameZWDVW

I keep one of these and a spare filter in each truck, after nearly being stranded last winter when severe cold and poor quality fuel conspired to plug my filter. There are cheaper versions of this wrench around, this one also has a wide flat screwriver like tool machined into the opposite end for opening the bleeder valve easily.

At first I kept a filter wrench around, but have learned that if you simply tighten by hand, they don't leak and are easier to get on and off quickly that way. A pair of mechanix gloves added to your 'emergency kit' really helps as well for getting a better grip.

I have done two replacements while on the road, and its great peace of mind to have your kit bagged up and ready to go under the back seat, especially on I-90 in South Dakota 100 miles from nowhere, blowing snow and -20 temps...

[NutNbutGMC]

The filters can be a bit of a PITA to replace, but..................That's it....I think. If I've left anything out, I'm sure someone will speak up.

http://h++p://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...spagenameZWDVW

Thanks for the info from the bote of yEE...


:tiphat:

[DarylB]

Much too long, here's the simplified version:

1. Drop the Passenger Inner fender
2. Unlpug the WIF sensor
3. Twist off the Old filter
4. Install new fuel filter & O-rings if applicable. Reconnect WIF sensor.
5. Open Bleed Screw and Prime w/ the Pump, close bleed screw
6. Crank engine, check for leaks
7. Re-install inner fender & Enjoy!


** On a site note ** Thanks Duramaster, I may try the intake-removal next time around. I hate those little plastic pegs you've gotta pull on the fenders.

[Rabbler]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...spagenameZWDVW

I keep one of these and a spare filter in each truck, after nearly being stranded last winter when severe cold and poor quality fuel conspired to plug my filter. There are cheaper versions of this wrench around, this one also has a wide flat screwriver like tool machined into the opposite end for opening the bleeder valve easily.

At first I kept a filter wrench around, but have learned that if you simply tighten by hand, they don't leak and are easier to get on and off quickly that way. A pair of mechanix gloves added to your 'emergency kit' really helps as well for getting a better grip.

I have done two replacements while on the road, and its great peace of mind to have your kit bagged up and ready to go under the back seat, especially on I-90 in South Dakota 100 miles from nowhere, blowing snow and -20 temps...

Holy over priced tool Batman!

I'm sure it works well but Lisle make a comparable wrench that's commonly available for under $10 and can be bought on e-bay for around $6.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DURAM...QQcmdZViewItem

[JackRH]

I bought a 2002 2500HD and there wasn't an owner's manual with it to show me how to change out the fuel filter. The info in this thread seems fairly clear but I'm a little afraid of messing something up because it appears I have plent of room to change the filter without removing fender skirts, etc.. Is there a place I can see some pictures of the fuel filter and it's location on a 2002 model? Am I just being to caustious and making a mountain out of a mole hill?
I have never gotten a wif alarm indicating that there would be water in the fuel. I probably have close to 10K miles on this filter.
Is there a rule of thumb for how often the filter should be changed?
Thanks for any help you can give. Sorry if the questions are dumb, not many mechanical skills here.
Knapper

[DmaxMaverick]

Jack

The earlier the model, the more room there is. If you think you can do it w/o removing anything, go for it. I've replaced dozens of these on just about all models, and I can get them all from the top (some require a little assistance through the fender liner, like a 2003 CA model last week). Your 2002 should be easy to get to w/o removing anything. Do yourself a favor, though, and drain the filter before pulling it. If it's full, it'll spill fuel all over the place. Use a piece of hose that will fit over the water drain nipple and open it and the top bleeder. Drain into a suitable container. No mess! Don't forget to disconnect (then reconnect later) the WIF sensor harness. If it gets tangled in the works or your wrench, you'll be shopping for a new one.

Don't complicate it any more than you think you have to. Glean what you need from the above suggestions, and keep it simple.

[mr. monte]

I did mine from the top, did not remove anything, no help from anyone, piece of cake

[EdHale]

I always remove the right hand battery. Two cables (yep I tape up the hot lead) and one bolt and out it comes. Then I have plenty of room and I'm not trying to work through the a/c lines. Ed