Throttle shaft reseal

[spiff]

I've tracked down a hard start problem to an injector pump leak at the throttle rod on the drivers side. It leaks quite a bit and I understand that there are "O" rings inside on the shaft that can be replaced. In a thread I found on the pages, It says that this can be repaired by removing the intake manifold to provide enough room to slide the shaft out. Are there any guides available here or other sources that would guide me in disassembly/reassembly of this section of the pump? Are Victor/Reinz gaskets satisfactory for the intake manifold R&R? Any other gotcha's that I should watch out for?

The local Standyne repair shop suggests that the "O"ring failure is the result of ULSD, and that other seals in the pump are likely to fail. They recommend a pump rebuild. How likely is this? The pump has a max of 100,000 mi on it, but it may have been replaced sometime previously. The engine runs smoothly and has no driveability problems once started.

Another question, the engine has the original 9G glows in it, and one is bad, I've seen suggestions to replace them now before they swell. Is there a consensus on that?

Thanks

[Robyn]

I have done the shaft reseal on these years ago (mid 80's) and the failure was definately not ULSD related.

The victor gaskets are fine.

The proceedure is fairly simply. Remove the manifold and then plug all the intake ports with paper towels. Be sure to blow off the top of the engine with a stong stream of air first to get rid of any junk that may be lurking around the manifold.

Once you have access to the IP rmove the crews and take the top off.
Once inside take a goooooooooooooood look at what is in there and how it all fits.

The procedure will present itself easily once you get a look at it.

The shaft has a little link on it that controls the fuel valve and it has to be disconnected.
The shaft will then slide out the side of the case.

I believe you have to remove the shutoff solenoid to get at the throttle shaft.

Now a word of caution. ***** You must replace the shaft, links and the solenoid exactly as it was installed or you can get a runaway condition with no means to shut it off.

I hasve done several of these but it has been a while.

The word of caution is once you are done, be sure the throttle moves as it did before and that everything inside is free to do what it did before and that when the key is turned on you can hear the solenoid click.

NO CLICK< DONT START IT

There should be some good pix here at the page showing the inside of the IP.

Be careful and good luck

Robyn