Smaller diesel engine, that would replace a gas inline four?

[76m880]

hmm. I'm not really sure if I'd be able to buy the stuff from you gopher.
Don't take it off the market.. if it sells and I don't buy it, Oh well.

I've got another 6.2 question.
If I get a 6.2, could I use a small block chevrolet transmission, that would have been bolted to a gas engine?

yes it can, what transmission are you looking at?

[Gearstix]

yes it can, what transmission are you looking at?

Not really sure, was wondering what manual transmissions would fit, and what automatics.

What is required to make a longblock 6.2 a complete turnkey engine?

[Gearstix]

I asked another member of a forum I'm on about a diesel S series conversion, he has a older style s10 with a 6.5 TD.

message one
"
Quote: Originally Posted by Gearstix Hello.
I'm interested in swapping a 6.2L mechanical GM diesel into my 1994 Sonoma. Its 2WD, and I won't be off-roading with it.
I see that you have a 6.5.
I've been told that I can use small block chevy engine mounts and stuff, is this true?
Is there any difficulty fitting the diesel into the truck?
What do you use for cooling?
What suspension/frame mods would I have to do to make the front end support all that weight? I know my application is a bit different than yours, since yours is 4wd and you use it for off-roading.
anything else that would help me?
Thanks alot.


Have you read through my "It's Alive" thread? If not, read through the last post on this page http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f134/i...11/index3.html, it covers what I did to mine to get it in there, but your's will have a few tweaks.

If the 6.2 has the same starter as mine, the drivers side mount you mentioned will work, but the passenger side motor mount has to be moved forward to clear the starter.
That post in my thread should cover the next two questions.

As far as the frame and suspension mods, I think the S10 frame and suspension is up to it if you add stronger coils and shocks to the front end.

The biggest issue that I see you having is fitting it in under the hood. Mine has a body lift and no cross member underneath the engine and it's tight. If you measure how much room you have between that cross member and the bottom of your hood, I can measure the hiegth of my engine and it will give you a good idea.

If you have any other questions or if I missed anything, don't hesitate to ask, I'll help you any way that I can."

message two
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gearstix Do you know how much bigger it is than a 350?


When I pulled the 350 out of mine, I sat it beside the 6.5 and was shocked and nervous about how much bigger it was. I didn't measure either, but I would say that the diesel is as big as a big block. Probably not what you wanted to hear."

I've sent him another message...

[trbankii]

Seems to be a few people swapping 6.5s into S10s. Here is a post in the photo forum of another one: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=32502

Curiously, neither one really shows any detail of the engine swap. The S10 forum link you posted has quite a few pictures of the rear suspension but just a couple gratuitous shots of the engine compartment from the top. I'd think that shoehorning a 6.5 into something that small would be worth a few photos of how it was done...

[Gearstix]

I was looking at some of the military 6.2s on ebay, and I'm thinking the exhaust manifolds that they use might work for my application, or just use oem ones.

I'm not sure if theres more clearance with these or the originals.

[convert2diesel]

I was looking at some of the military 6.2s on ebay, and I'm thinking the exhaust manifolds that they use might work for my application, or just use oem ones.

I'm not sure if theres more clearance with these or the originals.

Thats a yes. If you go for the H1 or center mount van turbo exhaust they tuck into the block even tighter. The stock manifolds on the passenger side had some real clearance issues with the frame of the Buick, due to the dog leg into the rest of the exhaust. Ended up with a turbo H1 on the right and a center dump from a NA van on the drivers side. If you go duals, use an X pipe after the tranny tail or rear cross member (less boom). If you go single, it is easier if you use the same place to cross over to your collector. If you go turbo...your on your own.

Bill

[Gearstix]

Thats a yes. If you go for the H1 or center mount van turbo exhaust they tuck into the block even tighter. The stock manifolds on the passenger side had some real clearance issues with the frame of the Buick, due to the dog leg into the rest of the exhaust. Ended up with a turbo H1 on the right and a center dump from a NA van on the drivers side. If you go duals, use an X pipe after the tranny tail or rear cross member (less boom). If you go single, it is easier if you use the same place to cross over to your collector. If you go turbo...your on your own.

Bill

I was thinking of doing a remote mount turbo after I got it all stuffed in and running.
But I still cannot find out what I'll need to take the longblock 6.2 im getting, and make it into a drop in turn key engine.
Its really bugging me... I don't want to get the engine shipped up here, make the guy go out of his way, offload it, and trailer it home and be like where do I go from here?

[thumpertrev]

Curiously, neither one really shows any detail of the engine swap.

I did not have any photos of the engine compartment because I made the foolish mistake of bolting in the motor with the 350 conversion mounts before I got the starter. If the frame is modified to use the mount location on the motor before install then starter fitment is a non issue. Also, the lift pump on the older motors is mechanical and did not clear on my frame. I used an electric lift pump. You will also need to remove the factory FI pump in the tank and modify the sender to make up the length of the pump. Heater box mods for clearance are necessary and a/c might be out of the question. Allin all the work involved was not that much more than most 350 conversions. Good luck.
pics of 6.2 on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...ayphotohosting

[Gearstix]

I did not have any photos of the engine compartment because I made the foolish mistake of bolting in the motor with the 350 conversion mounts before I got the starter. If the frame is modified to use the mount location on the motor before install then starter fitment is a non issue. Also, the lift pump on the older motors is mechanical and did not clear on my frame. I used an electric lift pump. You will also need to remove the factory FI pump in the tank and modify the sender to make up the length of the pump. Heater box mods for clearance are necessary and a/c might be out of the question. Allin all the work involved was not that much more than most 350 conversions. Good luck.
pics of 6.2 on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...ayphotohosting

I was told you have to move the passenger side engine mount ahead, 4 inches if I remeber right.
would I have to mess with the fuel tank, if I run a fuel cell or something?
My truck has no A/C, has heat and P/S. thats it. Its a pretty base model.
Did you use the 2.8 V6 mounts, and then the 350 plates or whatever that allow you to bolt a v8 to the 2.8 mounts?
I'm probably going to use a cowl hood, if it would help clearance.

[convert2diesel]

would I have to mess with the fuel tank, if I run a fuel cell or something?

If the original truck was carburated or used throttle body injection, then you won't have to change out the in-tank pump. Pressure is fine for the IP. It's only the newer multi-port injection systems that use the high pressure pumps. Ran the Buick on the in-tank for about 2 years until it went to greener pastures. Replaced it with an in-line pump from NAPA for about 50 bucks. The new pump draws through the old pump fine. No need to even drop the tank. Kept the chassis fuel filter in place as added insurance, though it is a pain to replace, and used the older style box type diesel filter used in the earlier models of 6.2 trucks.

Bill