What tools do I need to remove the rear disk brakes?

[chessy56]

I did mine on an '01 K2500HD; no, to replace the rotors you don't have to pull the hub from the spindle. However, if you intend on replacing the parking brake shoes it may help. There is a special spanner socket used for adjusting the tension on the outer hub bearing however.

Does your hub seal leak (either side)? My left side req'd replacement; I understand this was a common problem.

[Lonesome7.3]

I went out yesterday and tried to pull the whole assembly. I was unable to because my forklift broke. So I had the operator take it to the shop and I pulled the hydroboost instead. From what I saw, the hub does have to be removed. If so, I may has well hang it up. I was thinking about pulling the whole rear end and taking it some where I can work on it over time. But with out that tool, it will be a wast of time. Does any one have the part number or manufacturer of that tool?

I was going to post photographs, but the site will not allow me to.

[DmaxMaverick]

The socket is needed for assembly torque. [I don't recommend this] It can be disassembled with a punch and hammer, if the need arises. A piece of 3/8-1/2" round stock can be substituted for the punch. It'll need to be 8" or longer. Both sides are RH threads.

[Lonesome7.3]

So after I pull the axles, all I need to do is pull that hub nut and I am done? If that is the case, I can still pull this off. I did not realize the rear hubs came off that easily.

[DmaxMaverick]

It isn't "that easy", so to speak. The punch can be used to loosen the lock nut (chisel it around, not cut it). If all you are doing is robbing parts, and don't need to salvage the nuts, you can do it w/o a socket. That's all. It's a matter of convenience, and will usually damage/destroy the nut (or the hub/bearing if you miss).

Once you remove the hub nut, the hub and bearings will come off. The E-brake may hang up if it's adjusted tight or rusty, but it will come off with enough "persuasion".

Just curios, but why are you pulling a "few" rear disk brakes?

Also, if you can salvage the E-brake shoes and hardware (if they're in good shape), you may want to collect those, as well. They are very pricey (3X more than the service brake pads).

[Lonesome7.3]

I got a good look at it the other day. The only things I am not taking is the rotors becuase they are damged. It looks as though the truck was pulled with no rear tires or rims. I want to perform some rear disc conversions when I get home. So if I can pull these parts that have few miles on them all it will cost me is the shipping back to the states. And if I spread it out for a while (becuase I will not be going home any time soon) the boxes will not be that heavy.

I am pretty sure I know what you are saying about the hub nut. I have had to use a hammer and puch to take apart fron hubs before. I prefer a hub nut socket. But sometime you have to work with what you have on hand.

[DmaxMaverick]

Yep!

"One piece at a time...and it didn't cost me a dime..." (Johnny Cash)

Got a big lunch box?