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Thread: Rotten Egg Smell!

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Linn, WV USa
    Posts
    14

    Default

    When my truck was new I had the problem of not being able to keep the batteries charged. GM replaced one battery as it tested DEAD, but the problem was a relay in the ac system that was stuck open and kept drawing the batteries down.
    2001 Chevy,Onyx Black Exterior/Graphite Interior,4X4, Ext.Cab, Short Bed, D/A, Weathertech Bug Shield, Ridgerunner Fiberglass Running Boards, Linex Bed Liner

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I can't for the life of me understand why this problem is so hard to track down. I'm about to sell the truck because I need a vehicle that is worth a $h!t. If I remove my alternator, can it be checked for cooking my batteries? Will it be drawing juice through the charging cable? WTF?!
    '01 Silverado Std Cab/LB D/A 4x4
    -4" Straight Exhaust
    -Homemade $48 Intake
    -07-08 Telescoping Mirrors
    -285 Nitto Terra Graplers
    -Boss 7'6" HD Plow
    '90 Jeep Wrangler YJ w/ 6.2L NA
    '00 Harley Davidson FXDWG
    '73 Firebird Formula (90% resto'd)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Morgantown, W.Va. USA
    Posts
    1,002

    Default

    Are you sure it's the batteries? My truck started smelling real bad on the interior and it turned out that there was mold accumulating on the heater core. I had it in for routine maint. and I asked the dealer about this. They said while they were replacing my cabin filters they would spray some mold killer (?) on the core. Two years later no smell. ALSO, I always turn off the A/C and let the blower run for a few minutes before I shut the truck down. Apparently moisture accumulates on the core while in the A/C mode and then gets moldy. Turning on the heat speeds up the process. I may be off target here, but that fixed my smelly problem. Good luck.
    JP
    Jeff

    "But officer, I ain't Speedin', I'm just flyin' low"

    2001 Silverado 3500 Dually LS Ext Cab, 6.6L Diesel, Banks Stinger Kit, 4" Exhaust, VR Straps, Bilstein shocks, 255/85/16 BFG KM2s
    2004 Suburban 2500 LT 6.0L 4x4, Bilstein Shocks, Federico front/rear sway bars
    1996 Caprice 5.7L LT1, B4U Suspension, KYB shocks & Hotchkis sway bars, BMR RCA - alas I miss ya.
    2013 Caprice PPV 6.0L

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    740

    Arrow

    If you have a good dealer around, you might be able to get the Service Manager to come out and take a sniff of your problem. He/ She might have a better solution or might even agree with some of the suggestions that you have been given. Where at in Ohio do you live? I will TRY to get a name of a reputable dealer for you. No promises though.
    1998 Chevy k-2500 454 147,000 miles and climbing!

    1993 Pontiac G/A Big Block 3.3 Liter 140,000 miles and still going too!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I live in Dayton. The problem with both of the main Chevy dealers here is that they charge more than a premium for anything. That includes advice. I tried that route with the service center. they said they don't discuss problems and solutions over the phone and that they didn't give free advice. I had my alternator tested last night and it was bad. It has a dead spot in it. It will charge and then stop and the diode is bad. I'm going to get a new one and see what problem crops up next. Maybe I'll get lucky and get nickle and dimed right into the poor house.
    '01 Silverado Std Cab/LB D/A 4x4
    -4" Straight Exhaust
    -Homemade $48 Intake
    -07-08 Telescoping Mirrors
    -285 Nitto Terra Graplers
    -Boss 7'6" HD Plow
    '90 Jeep Wrangler YJ w/ 6.2L NA
    '00 Harley Davidson FXDWG
    '73 Firebird Formula (90% resto'd)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Along with replacing my alternator, I am replacing the batteries, too. I don't want to take a chance with something going horribly wrong a month from now. I am upgrading to the 145 amp alternator and two red top Optima batteries with 800 cold cranking amps a piece. It may be overkill, but I hate being stranded. And if I have to get a jump start from another Ford, I'm going to light the truck on fire. That was straight out embarrassing. Any thoughts? On the fix, not the jump start.
    '01 Silverado Std Cab/LB D/A 4x4
    -4" Straight Exhaust
    -Homemade $48 Intake
    -07-08 Telescoping Mirrors
    -285 Nitto Terra Graplers
    -Boss 7'6" HD Plow
    '90 Jeep Wrangler YJ w/ 6.2L NA
    '00 Harley Davidson FXDWG
    '73 Firebird Formula (90% resto'd)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I had an '01 LB7 and I had the exact same problem as you. I asked a friend of mine who is ASE certified and the first thing he said was to check the batteries. Sure enough, one was leaking so I changed it out. The problem went away for about two years and the same side battery started smelling again. I changed it out and the smell wasn't there anymore. I then sold the truck so I didn't get a chance to check the alternator.
    2007.5 Silverado 2500 LMM LTZ C/C 4x4 Black

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