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Thread: lb7 engine not getting to operating temp

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Mass
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    the thermostats are only about 9k miles old. i thought the same about runnin hot rather than cold but i can't think of anything else it could be. dependind on who you talk to the bleeding procedures are different. in all cases it seems that there have been many probs with purging all of the air out in these motors.

  2. #2
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    Apr 2001
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    Arrow

    What bleed procedure did you use?
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    i opened the bleeder and filled the coolant until the i got no bubbles out of the bleeder and the level in the bottle was correct. i started the engine and with the cap loosely on 1 thread and when the temp read over 175f i revved the engine from idle to 3k rpm in 30 second intervals but it never warmed up over 180f. i opened the bleeder to see if any air would come out but i just got strait fluid. at this point i decided to drive the truck in order to see if i could work the air pocket out if there is one. i took the truck home with me from my shop which is about 40 miles and then back again this morning. still same thing coolant level hasn't changed at all and engine won't warm over 180f. it is cold here approx 28f but it should warm up in that time. its a mystery to me. if anybody has any ideas.

  4. #4

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    Okay dumb question...is it possible that you aren't getting a good read of your engine temp - i.e. loose/broken sender wire?

    Just a thought...
    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

  5. #5
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    i suspected that as well not a dumb question. but i have the genesys scan tool and the highest reading that i am getting from the tool is 165.

  6. #6
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    That's the correct procedure. There's only one effective way to bleed it, and you nailed it. I'd like to hear of the others. I think you can rule out air contamination at this point, due to your procedure and visible results.

    I think if you are seeing 175°, it's close enough to call it good. The senders and gages are not that accurate, and a dose of fresh coolant may have loosened things up. I'd run it as-is, and watch for changes in trends, rather than the actual number.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  7. #7
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    180 (when looking the somewhat inaccurate dash gauge) is not entirely out of the range of normal when driving in cool weather and the engine isn't loaded all that much.

    If you have the factory winter front, I'd install it for a test, or you could test the truck in some other way that loads the engine more (like towing at freeway speeds).

    Jim

  8. #8
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    Sep 2001
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    Mesa, AZ
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    Have you driven it or are you just letting it idle/reving in one place. A diesel takes forever when not put under aload to warm up. Just a thought.

    Mike
    1995 Suburban K2500 6.5TD 3.73's Innercooled, Updated cooling, Banks 3" exhaust no gizzards in the kittie. Pyro/Boost/Trans temp. Transgo HD valvebody kit.
    2002 2500HD, CC, LB, 4X4,California Truck, Federal Emissions Front pipe, Plugged recirculator, modified air box(Per Kennedy's page) 6" RCD lift, 35" tires.

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