Camaro 6.5L TD project

[Rafedial1]

Wow, these conversions are more popular than i thought!

That 6.5L Nova is interesting! thanks for the videos. it has motivated me to work even harder on the project.

One day I hope to spread the conversion bug to anyone I can, but it looks like it has already spread across the world. The Netherlands, right? the locals must go crazy over that 6.5L Nova. Looks great!

Couple questions for my project.

Can the CDR valve be vented to atmosphere?
I am going to wire manual momentary glow plug switch. I am using a snow plow solenoid (high current) with a push button switch. Sound right?



Here are some pictures of the motor mount mockup/fab progress. Unfortunately the engine sits too low, to forward, to close to many parts of the car, the steering rack wont work, etc. Looks like i have to fabricate a second set. But it fits!!!!

Ohh, I am attempting to build the complete car by myself. I love a challenge but I am beginning to understand just how difficult this project will be. I have had experience with gassers, mostly LSX based vehicles, some carb'ed applications, and computer tuning (HpTuners) gassers and diesels. I know the 4th gen Camaro/Firebirds like the back of my hand; the weaknesses and strengths. I just want the durability/torque/mileage of a diesel combined with the agility/handling of a Camaro.

The Camaro will be used in road racing, drag racing, but be able to DD just as well. Is that too far-fetched to accomplish?

[convert2diesel]

If you figure out how to shoe horn a turbo into that space, please let me know. Been the major roadblock I have had since starting with the Buick. Now that I am starting on the Cadillac, a turbo is now manditory as it will be used to haul the new RV.

Bill

[DmaxMaverick]

There's no rule that says it has to go under the hood. Stick it in the glove box, if you have to.

[Rafedial1]

convert2diesel, a turbo is a nice addition for towing.

I agree with Dmaxmaverick. A turbo can be placed anywhere. A company called Squires Turbo Systems builds some wild setups. Even a twin kit for the Y-body's. They locate them in the rear of the vehicle for less under hood heat and especially space. Turbo lag and lack of dependability are the downsides to remote mount turbochargers. I will be doing some version of this...

Progress:
Motor mounts were redesigned and I am happy with the placement so far. I am going to throw the 80E up there and see where I am at for driveline angle(s) and clearances. Front suspension is getting an overhaul with joints, ends, and poly bushings. Rear axle is a whole different story. A couple companies sell bolt in 9 inchers and 12 bolts but they are $$$$. Believe it or not this is a budget build. I wish I had a sponsor.

Car will get a fuel cell and some batteries relocated.

[convert2diesel]

There's no rule that says it has to go under the hood. Stick it in the glove box, if you have to.

Wouldn't need the heater then, just place the hot side in the core box and route some of the puffer side through the vents .

I agree with Dmaxmaverick. A turbo can be placed anywhere. A company called Squires Turbo Systems builds some wild setups. Even a twin kit for the Y-body's. They locate them in the rear of the vehicle for less under hood heat and especially space. Turbo lag and lack of dependability are the downsides to remote mount turbochargers. I will be doing some version of this...

Originally looked at these systems four years ago, even had an exhaust guy design the pipes, but as this is my daily driver, plus the environment I live in, we estimated the life expectency to be around a month and a half. Salt, and road crap coupled with periodic shock cooling of the hot side (salt plus ice=water) would make short work of any turbo. Not only that, we couldn't find a logical location for the intake side that wasn't exposed to the same things.

Have a little more room under the hood on the Caddy and am looking at locating the turbo in the same location as the H1 and van (center mount) but will fab up my own mounts. The vans especially are prone to heat problems at the rear of the engine so will try to alieviate some of the problems using ceramics and heat shielding. The stock side mount passenger side manifold hits the upper control arm dead on. Would have to cut out the front runner all together to get it to fit.

I am still entertaining the idea of using a blower but have yet to find one with enough volume that is low enough to fit under the hood. Puttting a power bulge on a Caddy just doesn't seem right. Can fab up a custom water cross over/thermost housing but still need enough air to give me about 375 to 400 ft/lbs. of torgue at 2,000 RPM to do the job. Looking at the Eaton blowers but the M90 is the only one that will fit. Would have to spin it at max just to get 10PSI. At that speed, noise would be an issue and I doubt it would flow enough air. Any of the axial ones (mechanical turbo) have reliability problems and need much higher compressor speeds to do the same job.

Good luck on your conversion. Looks like you have your act together. Trust me, the reactions on the street when you pull up beside someone making all the wrong noises is worth all the effort. With the wieght and profile advantages of your car, if you don't get 40+ MPG, your doing something wrong.

Bill

[arveetek]

Cool project!

I've done two diesel conversions, but they were both pretty straight-forward, into trucks that could have come with the 6.2L from the factory, so there was no real fabrication required.

How come you solid-mounted the engine to the k-member? Won't that create some serious vibrations through the whole vehicle? I know that when I replaced my rubber mounts with poly mounts, the extra vibration was very evident. I can't imagine running solid mounts.

Casey

[Rafedial1]

Casey,

well I thought since the car will be used mainly for drag/roadtrack racing that the solid mounts would be the best way to put the power to the ground. I am having second thoughts though. The natural vibration of a diesel is much more considerable than a gasser. My clearances throughout the drivetrain are very close. I did not want to take the chance of any contact with the body through the torque motion of the engine. To counteract the vibration problem I used ALOT of Dynamat sound deadener throughout the car, it won't be enough though. I guess I am willing to live with the distraction, until I build the next one, which will be much more streetworthy and user-friendly.

To everybody:
Yes, if you would like a 6.5L turbo diesel 4th Gen Camaro/Firebird I will build you one. My plan is to build 10 of these, depending on demand. I am documenting every measurement and detail as I go along. There will be performance options among lots of other options for the buyer. Come by the shop if you would like.

[Rafedial1]

Merry Christmas all!!

Alright, the car is coming along nicely. Ran into a couple issues. Anyone's help is appreciated.

I am building my own COMPLETE exhaust system for the car starting with 6.2/6.5 N/A manifolds. Are the outlet sizes/flanges the same for the 6.5L Turbo and N/A manifolds?

Is it mandatory to have the exh. manifold-to-head surface machined flat for the best seal before installing?

I noticed the factory exhaust manifolds use a donut style cintered metal gasket that fits into the manifold. On the other side is a flare and a 3 hole collar/flange that keeps the whole assembly together. Well I found the gaskets for the manifold easily but I can find something to work for the other side.

I thought about using a fabricated 3/8" flat flange mated to the flat surface of the exhaust manifold and a universal style DIY gasket material. My concern is the surface area is very small and leaks/failures seem very easy. Any ideas? I checked Heath's high-flow crossover pipe kit and it looks very nice. But again, I am not sure the 6.5 turbo and N/A manifolds have the same outlet dimensions. Ohh and a little too much $$ for me to just cut up later. The reason I am using the 6.5/6.2 N/A manifolds is for the remote mount turbocharger.

Next issue. I got my hands on a ESS out of a 93 6.5 turbo truck. I am looking to somehow use it for a tach signal and as an input for the stand-alone TCI 4L80E transmission controller. I know this has been asked before, but where do I start? Does the OEM ESS output a digital or analog signal? Can it be translated for use in a tach like Autometer's Part #3788 diesel tach. I see Autometer calls for using some cheesy 2-pole magnet deal that I don't like at all. Could this tach just be hardwired to the ESS? How about some type of crank-triggered sensor mounted near the balancer? I don't want something that'll jump around or be inaccurate? Any help?

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make my situation understandable.



Cody