Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: New Guy With a New Plan

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    17

    Default New Guy With a New Plan

    Ok I just wanted to take the time to introduce myself here as well as ask for some advice. I am new to diesels though I am well versed in their operation. I am currently putting a 82 6.2 into a 1958 Chevy Del Rey. I would like to run the motor as stripped down and manual as possible. I would like to ask what systems can be taken off of the motor ie can the motor be run w/ out sensors and all that. I am a pretty good fabricator and would like to design a custom intake as well. Any input from the knowledge here would be much appreciated. Thanks a lot.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Other than the necessities (gages), the engine will run fine with only an ignition source (fuel stop solenoid) and glow plugs (for cold starting). No "sensors" required nor desired. The HPCA circuit is also a good idea during cold starts (reduces smoke and speeds up smooth running), but not required at moderate temps. The HPCA should be coolant temp sensor controlled, or manual if you are so inclined. No logic or ECM/PCM is necessary to run a 6.2L or 6.5L (mechanical injection). All the electronics on any 6.2L, or mechanical 6.5L, is to satisfy the EPA (ptooey).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,294

    Default

    OOOOOOOOOH I like this PLAN

    I would recommend the HPCA system.
    This is a simple N.C. 120F temp switch that scews into the RH head near the rear above the exhaust manifold.

    12v is routed from the same circuit that turns the IP on through the switch and then to the cold advance terminal on the IP and also the fast idle solenoid.

    The cold start will be far cleaner and reliable with this system up and running.
    It adds little in the way of wiring to the top of the engine and can be done so it runs right along with the feed to activate the IP

    The switch closes at temps below about 100F and opens at 120F when the advance and fast idle are not needed.


    The glow system is an absolute neccesity to get these little beast started even in warm temps.

    You can wire up a "Ford" Starter relay to handle the duty with a discreet push button in the cab.

    Use 60G plugs and glow for about 10 seconds before you twist its tail.

    Many folks have done the glow system this way and it works fine.

    The issue is not to get over zellous with the glow time.

    As far as the intake goes, the stock "J" series single plane manifold are great for an NA engine. The manifolds are aluminum and could be pollished up to look very "trick"

    Chroming the Valve covers has been done too and sure adds some pizzazz.

    If you want to step on the wild side, a Banks turbo setup added to this would be way kewl.
    The same sidewinder system that was built for the C-K pickups would work sweet.

    This adds a buttload of power to the little diesel rat motor.

    Best of luck with the project, it should be a very unique car when finished.

    Keep us posted. Pix are always a welcome addition.

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    17

    Default Thanks for the reply

    Thanks for the info.
    I had seen the ford glow plug manual system and it seams the way I want to go.
    I like the idea of the HPCA too.
    What about the vacuum pump, is this just for accessories and TH transmissions?
    Also on transmissions I have a 700R4 out of a 1500 4x4. Will the gearing on this be right or do you have to get one that was attached to the diesel originally?
    Thanks again for the help. I'll try and get pictures up this weekend.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Vacuum is only needed for TH350/400 trannies, EGR, OEM 6.5TD wastegate control, or older (pre-88) HVAC control. If you have none of this, no need for a vacuum pump. If you only have vacuum HVAC, an electric vacuum pump can be used, rather than the engine driven pump. The GM Diesel brake booster is hydraulic (Hydroboost), so no vacuum for that.

    The TH700R4 trannies are geared the same, gas or Diesel. The governor and torque converter is Diesel specific. If your 1500 4x4 was a gas V8, the tranny will be fine with the Diesel governor and TC. I recommend a heavy duty sprag/roller and shift kit installed, while you have it out. Robyn can better advise you on the slushbox questions.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,084

    Default

    If you remove the vacuum pump, make sure you just don't pull it out and throw it away! The vacuum pump is driven by the camshaft, and the vacuum pump then drives the oil pump. In order to delete the vacuum pump, you need a block-off plate with the built-in oil pump drive mechanism. Most vans with the 6.2L used these.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    17

    Default

    That is good to know about the vacuum delete plate. I would have just pulled it out and made a block off plate. I will search the boneyard for one, but if not is there an easy way to fab one. or does anyone have the PN. I'll look around for some info on the subject. Thanks though that is a really good thing to know.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Lubbock TX, USA
    Posts
    4,194

    Default

    Most 6.5TD's had the oil pump drive installed in place of the vacuum pump, so that may help at the dealer. Just ask for one of those off a 6.5.

    Ain't something you're gonna be able to make easily.
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.5TD, mods too extensive to list. (13.69 1/4 mile @94.6 MPH) RACE TRUCK
    1982 C10 SCSWB 6.2NA, 2.73 700
    1986 C10 SCLWB 6.2TD 3.73 700
    1989 V20 SUB 6.2NA, 3.73 400
    1994 G20 VAN 6.5NA, 3.42 60E
    1994 K20LD ECSWB 6.5TD, 3.42 80E
    1995 K20 SUB 6.5TD, Wrecked, ran into by stupid teen.
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 12' Flatbed 5.13 80E
    1995 C3500HD DRW 6.5TD, 18' Rollback Wrecker 4.63 80E
    1994 C20HD ECLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E Wifes Truck.
    1995 C20LD ECSWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1995 K20LD SCLWB 6.5TD 3.73 80E
    1996 K30 DRW 6.5TD 4.10 80E
    1997 C10 Tahoe 2Door 2WD 5.7L to 6.5 Conversion Underway

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •