right clutch kit???

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

i know to well what it's like working on the vehicle after the work day. but you don't want to get the wrong bolts. me is thinking those will be a GR. 8 bolt.

[trbankii]

Took a look back through my e-mails to see if I still had the one from Peter with the bolt size. Definitely go Grade8 for them, but I cannot find the size and length - should have written it down somewhere. I agree - they should include those in the kit.

[94bluehd]

I called SB and explained the situation and he said they definitely should have had a bolt pack in with the kit. They are overnighting them to me. You are right, good service and very apologetic and understanding. Same with Quad 4x4, my transmission rebuild came with a 5th gear for a dodge (21 tooth) so they got right on it and I should have the 5th gear today. Great service there also.

I totally understand how those things happen but I sure don't like it when it happens to me

[94bluehd]

SB came through and the bolts were here at mid-day!!! I got the tranny rebuilt and ready to install and got the clutch in.. Now on to the Bell housing, Tranny, TC, shafts and down the road (I sure hope anyway....).

The rebuild manual available at Quad4x4 was an unbelievable asset in rebuilding the nv4500, step-by-step pics and the rebuild parts were the exact part numbers of the originals which made it very easy to learn on a first time rebuilder of that tranny.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

SB came through and the bolts were here at mid-day!!! I got the tranny rebuilt and ready to install and got the clutch in.. Now on to the Bell housing, Tranny, TC, shafts and down the road (I sure hope anyway....).

way to go on the rebuild. something i wouldn't mind checking into. Um, TC?

[94bluehd]

thankyou, of course the real test is to come. The only specialty tool I had to buy was the MS nut socket to access the nut once the damper was on and calculate the extent of the extension used on a 250lb torque wrench to reach the suggested 325lb. I got some threaded bolt stock and large washers with a piece of pipe and fitted the race out of one of the old bearings into the end of the pipe for a press. Just thread the mess into the end of the MS and start turning the bolt to press the pipe/race against bearing/gear and on it goes. Also used a small shop press where I could. I used large jaw pullers to remove the stuff from the MS since I had to replace it anyway. the ms is long and didn't have long enough pullers so I cut the MS with a chopsaw since it was junk anyway, that way I could reach what I needed with the proper grasp from the puller. Also a dial indicator is necessary. Magnetically mountable would be ideal but I made a conglomeration of adjustable extensions and bolted it into the end of the case to fit the DI against the ends of the shafts to check for play and determine the proper spacer(s) needed. I was tedious as I took it slow and hopefully did it correctly. I poured a pint or so over the gears and shifted through them last night and it works great. Sealed up the openings for install and go from there.

TC=Transfer case- I rebuilt that two years ago (NP241) using instructions/kit from drivetrain(I think that is what they are called). very helpful and a successful rebuild after the input bearing exploded.

[94bluehd]

I got the whole thing back together and took it for a test drive. Wow, now vibrations at all!!!!! With the SM FW, it is alot quieter upon starter engagement and the clutch is extremely easy to work compared to the old clutch set up. Also, with the rebuild Nv4500, it really shifts nice.

Is this common for the clutch to get so easy. It is engaging, disengaging all the way with normal pedal travel.

No more 5th gear hum/whine either (imagine that).

I put a new crossover on as well.

My issue is this, when I had the DM setup, I had a grunt/grind intermittenly in reverse and when hauling a load down a hill in 1st and relying on engine compression. It was intermitent and I assumed it was something like a warped PP or somehting? However, now anytime I downshift or left of the throttle in the lower gears, I get it constantly. Also, when I shut it down, there is a clunk when the motor stops. All of these noises sound like they are right under the center console.

Anyone else deal with these noise(s)? How about the easy pedal?

[94bluehd]

Nevermind about the noise.....I found that the 4" exhaust is very close to the bottom of the cab and when the engine torques to the driver's side, the pipe hits a rib under the passengers side cab. Funny it only did it before when I was backing up a steep hill or the engine was holding back while going down a steep hill.

I recently changed the gplugs and had to unhook the down pipe. I would think the strap would have put it right back where it was?

The only scenario I can think of is that the motor mounts may be getting worn and allowing excessive rocking of the motor. With the new clutch, it is not slipping and is quick to engage, thereby making the noise more pronounced.

The bad thing about the 4" exhaust is it is hard to find a straight shot w/o getting close to something.

[94bluehd]

Need input here guys/gals.....

I got about 35 miles on the overhaul and now the TC jumps into neutral from 2H. Put it in 4h and can feel it trying to move out of gear. Had to hold it in 2H to get it home....kept trying to jump out. From the feel of the shifter on the TC it felt like it was gradually moving it's way out of gear and then POP, it was out of gear (with a very slight grind on it's way out). Seemed to get worse as I got home and on the 1mi bumpy driveway.

I didn't do anything to the TC during my recent work, only pulled it out and put it back in. Linkage should be in the same spot....

Would worn motor mounts affect this or do I have something else going on?

I have about 20K on the rebuilt TC with no problems before I pulled the Tranny and all that??????

[DmaxMaverick]

If the shifter is properly adjusted, and is not contacting anything during torque episodes (on power or compression), the TC needs an overhaul. The in/output shaft bearings are getting sloppy, causing it to kick out of gear when they torque out of alignment. There are other possibilities of cause, but you won't know until you split the case.

If your engine mounts are very worn, the torque episodes could cause the shifter to contact the tunnel, causing it to shift out of gear. If it goes (or tries to) into neutral from 2 and 4, it's likely worn out. Overhauls are not difficult, and not expensive, if you do it yourself. The last one I did was less than $120 in parts/sealer (no gaskets used), and took less than 4 hours (at my slow speed), including R/R. Very simple gearbox.

[94bluehd]

Thanks DM...I just rebuilt it 20K ago and absolutely no problems until now????? How would my clutch kit, tranny rebuild affect this?

How much play should be in the motor mounts..I took off the shifter boot on the tranny and drove it around and noticed about 1 inch side-to-side during torque.

Thanks to everyone on this site, I would never have gotten this far in the last 6yrs w/o this site!!!

[DmaxMaverick]

I dunno. Unless something was overlooked during the rebuild, something broke (spring or shift fork?), or it is being affected externally, I don't have an answer. The TC moving won't cause it to disengage. 1" shift lever movement, from power on to compression (while in gear), does not seem excessive. If it's moving 1" just from revving the engine, it could be, depending on how/where you're measuring it. If/when you replace the engine mounts, do the tranny mount, as well, and perhaps the crossmember insulators (where the xmember mounts to the frame).

(far reaching possibility)
It could have to do with your DM to SM change. Additional/different harmonics through the tranny may be exploiting a weakness in the TC. Just a SWAG...

[94bluehd]

Thank you for the input. My guess is that I will be going into the case as it was getting worse as I went.....Damn!

[94bluehd]

switched to a SM FW but now have the DM flywheel. Face looks good, springs have a wear spot on them but work to just roll that spot to the outside but he plastic bushings at the ends of the springs are worn. Seems like a waste to throw this away. Can a person get the springs/bushings? It would be nice to have second flywheel since I had originally bought a DM clutch kit to put in until I saw the FW springs.