6.2/6.5 assembly tips

[Robyn]

Please, lets keep this thread clear of discussions and save for build tips, part numbers etc. It will be easier to navigate that way. If you have some good numbers or info, please post them for all to use.

Missy

Hello fellow GM diesel lovers

Well I am taking this time during my DaHooooley rebuild to capture some tech tips and get them in pix and make comment.

The pix will follow but are pretty self explanatory and have notes where needed.

One of the biggies is to be sure the rear cam plug is sealed well.
Apply permatex to the plug and drive in with a suitable driver and a hammer. (large socket that just fits inside the lip on the plug)

Be sure the lip is just flush with the back of the block.

Now for anyone who has ever had one leak or worse yet COME OUT
I prefer to do two things.
I drill and tap two 6/32 holes in the plug boss and insert two little button head allen screw with a washer to catch the edge of the plug.

I also do a covering of the joint with JB weld

Having seen what happens when they leak or come out I will always do this.

A large oil leak from the bellhousing leaves a huge sick HOLE in the pit of your gut

This procedure takes little time and make it bullet proof.

The holes only need to be driiled about 1/4 inch into the boss and just close enough to the plug that the washer fully catches the rim of the plug.

Next is the Plasti gauge procedure.

With the upper bearing shells in place, lay the crank carefully into the block and position so the counter weights are as far out of the way as possible.

NOW resist all temptation to turn the crank as there is NO LUBE ON IT.

Next apply a very light smear of oil to the main journals (just enought to make a smudge)

Take a small piece of the Plasti Gauge material and lay on the main journal.

Set the caps on and tap into place. Torque the bolts down to at least 75% of the value.

Remove the caps

Now have a look at the smashed plasti gauge.

We can see using the little paper sleave graphics that the bearing clearance is right about .002" possibly a couple tenths more.

This is not rocket science and works easy and fast.

Be sure to check all the mains

We will do the rods later on as we get that far.

Never assume that all is well, Check all the bearings ALWAYS

Now scrape the plasti gauge off using your fingernail. Wipe the journal clean and take the crank out.

Lubriplate 105 is the real deal for a build and is the choice of campions.
It stays where you put it and does not run out but washes out with the oil when the engine is fired off.

Lube the upper inserts and set the crank back into the block.

Lube and insert the rear main seal into the crank with the seal lip facing the inside of the engine.

Align the back edge of the seal with the inner edge of the little chamfer on the block and cap.

You can lift the crank slightly to do this. Be sure the seal is square and straight all around.

Apply High tack as shown in the pix (Lightly) this will assure an oil tight seal between the cap and the block.

Apply 105 to the inserts in the caps. (Be sure to remove any left over plasti gauge first)


Set the main caps on one at a time and snug the bolts.
Be sure the rear seal is even all around. DO NOT LUBE THE OUTER RIM OF THE SEAL. This will assure a good fit between the ribs of the seal and the block and cap.

Leave the bolts on number 3 (Thrust main) just barely snug

Once all the rest of the mains are snug use a large rubber dead blow hammer or a wood mallet to smack the crank for and aft to seat the thrust main cap and even it up.

Now start the tightening procedure.

I like to do the center main first and do the inside bolts to 50# and the outer to about 35#

Do all the mains and check to be sure at every change in torque that the crank will turn by hand.

Next bring all the bolts up to about 75# inner and 50# outer
Then do the final torque to 110# inner and 100# outer (12MM bolt blocks new blocks use lighter torque on the 10mm outers)

HINT that will SAVIOR A$$

After each main is brought to final torque, mark the cap with a sharpy pen.

Now this may seem stupid !! but believe me, when the phone rings and you come back later, DUHHHHHHHHH where was I ?????????????

The ones with the marks you know are good to go.

This is also to be done as each rod cap is brought to torque.
Mark it on the pad on the bottom.

Here is a shot of the nice finish of the crank.

This is the crank that came from the engine that cracked the block.
I hand pollished it with some 600 grit emery that I ran over a sharp piece of steel to knock the sharp off the paper

Very nice finish with only smudges from handling. Crank may have 75K miles not sure.

You can look at the pix and pretty well see whats what here.

The cam was installed prior to the procedures above and the clearance checked for and aft with the cam plug

(make sure you have about 1/32" of back clearance so you dont chew the cam plug)

Use blue locktite on the cam plate retaining bolts.
Bolt comes out its game over.

More later as the build progresses.

I hope to document the whole build this way so it will provide reference for others.
I will make this thread a "sticky" to keep it handy.

Just a note here. You can see the inserted center main bolt holes well in the one pix

Best

Robyn