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Thread: 12v power in bed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kentucky and Clemson SC
    Posts
    115

    Default 12v power in bed

    Wanted to pick yall's brains a little for an idea I have. I run my truck on veg oil and when I go to collect it I use a 12v transfer pump with battery cable leads to power it. problem is, these battery cable leads are way too short to reach from the bed of my truck (where all the work is going on) and the battery. It would be really sweet to have a 12v power source, like a battery post, close to the cab in my bed. Any ideas?
    Sold: 98 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 auto 166k, Lubrication Specialties oil cooler, FSD cooler, Walking J "feed the Beast" mod, Heath HD lift pump, SSdiesel turbo back exhaust, Heath mechanical boost controller, Softtopper camper top, boost, egt, fuel pressure gauges

    1970 El Camino SS, built 355, aluminum heads, Lunati cam, intake, 800 cfm edlebrock, Tremec 5 spd, QA1 Coil over all around, Wilwood discs up front, 3.73 Posi 12 bolt, Viper Red

    2012 Audi A3 TDI- Love it! 45 mpg!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,579

    Arrow

    Install a stationary jumper cable disconnect (like most tow trucks have). Instead of having the alligator clamps on the ends, install a switch/fuse box (if necessary) and connector for your pump. The connector can be mounted anywhere. The kits are usually pretty generous with cable length. JC Whitney may still carry them, but you can get them at many auto/truck parts stores. Maybe a Harbor Freight item.

    Also, depending on the amount of current needed (effective up to about 20 amps, more if heavier wire is installed), you could plug into the trailer connector (it should already be wired for a 12V trailer charging circuit). I use this method for flying model airplanes (supplies/charges power box used for fuel pump, glow plugs and electric starter, and TX/RX battery charging). It's just an RV trailer plug wired to batt+ and ground.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,643

    Default

    If your using larger cables, you can use plug type connectors for welding leads. Would be a good idea to fuse the hot side some where ahead of the plug. Mount the female plug end some where convenient.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kentucky and Clemson SC
    Posts
    115

    Default

    THanks guys this is great, I am going to northern tool and see what I can round up.
    Sold: 98 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 auto 166k, Lubrication Specialties oil cooler, FSD cooler, Walking J "feed the Beast" mod, Heath HD lift pump, SSdiesel turbo back exhaust, Heath mechanical boost controller, Softtopper camper top, boost, egt, fuel pressure gauges

    1970 El Camino SS, built 355, aluminum heads, Lunati cam, intake, 800 cfm edlebrock, Tremec 5 spd, QA1 Coil over all around, Wilwood discs up front, 3.73 Posi 12 bolt, Viper Red

    2012 Audi A3 TDI- Love it! 45 mpg!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,058

    Default

    Put a fusible link right at the power source (battery?) Big wires make big fires...
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

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