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Thread: Torque of Hub Nut

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    131

    Question Torque of Hub Nut

    Hi
    I would like to thank Robyn for the great brake post. I would like to know how to torque the hub nut how do I keep the hub from turning put on the wheel and lower the truck just enough to keep the hub from spinning or use a wooden dowel in the lug nuts to keep it from spinning those are my thoughts what does anyone else do?
    Thanks
    Mike
    America Love it or Leave!
    1999 Cheverolet K2500 Suburban 4X4 LT
    Hybrid Diesel/Vegetable Oil conversion by me
    In Memory of My Fallen FDNY Brothers
    Never forget Never Forgive

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,294

    Default

    I just rattle them down good with my 1/2" impact wrench.

    Never had one come loose. The nuts are a locking nut and all it does is maintain the axle shaft spline contact into the hub.

    If you use a rattle gun, the thing can be in the air and the wheel off.

    No biggy, just get it tight and it will be happy.


    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NH & Eastern NY
    Posts
    205

    Default

    I don't have the specs, but the question has been answered here before by MorePower and DmaxMaverick. Do a search for "wheel bearing" and I'll bet you find it in the first couple posts.

    Dmax mentioned that the weight of the truck should not be on the wheel until that axle nut is tightened. The weight of the truck (vertical force) is really supported by the bearing only, but I believe he has a valid point, as the only thing resisting any horizontal forces when the axle nut is not tightened is the press fit of the bearing hub and internal snap ring. As you lower the truck to the ground, most times you will notice the tire pushing outward as the weight of the truck is taken up by the suspension. this could put undue horizontal stress on the wheel bearing

    My method for this is to have a helper step on the brakes, as the hub and brake assembly should be fully re-assembled by that time. I've gotten over 100K miles out of my last set of replacement Timkens on my 04 (135K miles on the truck, OEM units failed at 30K) and just replaced the passenger side again. So far so good.

    Best of luck,
    Leo
    2012 Chevy 2500HD ECSB, 6.0L gas, auto, 4x4, LT
    2003 F450, 7.3L PSD, 6 spd stick, 2wd, dump truck
    1983 GMC K2500 pickup - working on a Cummins 5.9L swap
    1987 GMC K3500 Dump, 6.2L diesel, TH400 auto - project plow truck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    131

    Talking

    Thanks
    That was my concern that the weight of the truck would hamper the tightening of the Nut to proper torque. No helper so I will have to use the electric impact gun.
    According to my GM dealer you can reuse the nut unless its a corvette any thoughts on that any locktight?
    Thanks Again
    Mike
    America Love it or Leave!
    1999 Cheverolet K2500 Suburban 4X4 LT
    Hybrid Diesel/Vegetable Oil conversion by me
    In Memory of My Fallen FDNY Brothers
    Never forget Never Forgive

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Exclamation

    The torque for the axle shaft to hub nut has been revised several times over the years. For an 8 lug 4x4, it's 177 lb/ft. About double that of the average 1/2" impact wrench. The nut, according to the manual, should NOT be reused (although I have on several necessary occasions). The hub on a 4x4 MUST be torqued before bearing the full vehicle weight. The nut supports the bearing. A 2wd can be torqued after the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing, as it is fully supported with or without the nut.

    I use the 1/2" impact wrench to sock it down, install the wheel/tire, then lower the tire to the ground enough to prevent turning. Then, put the full torque on it.

    If you replaced the hub, the hub to knuckle bolts are torqued to 133 lb/ft, the sensor mounting bolt is 13 ft/lb, and the caliper mounting bracket to knuckle is 221 ft/lb.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    131

    Unhappy

    Thanks DmaxMaverick I went to a dealer to buy the Nuts and he did not have them but asked the floor Mec do you need to install new ones and the mec. said they always reuse them only if its a Corvette does it need to be replaced go figure? I have the manual too and it said get new ones. so whats the real story no part store has them seems to be a dealer Item.
    when you reused them did you put any locktight on ?

    "The nut, according to the manual, should NOT be reused (although I have on several necessary occasions)."
    Thanks
    Mike
    America Love it or Leave!
    1999 Cheverolet K2500 Suburban 4X4 LT
    Hybrid Diesel/Vegetable Oil conversion by me
    In Memory of My Fallen FDNY Brothers
    Never forget Never Forgive

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    No Loc-Tite. It's a crimp-type locker, so it should still lock. That, and the Loc-Tite may effect the torque value. It should be clean and dry.

    If not for the manual "requiring" replacement, I'd reuse every one that isn't damaged. I've had to order every one I needed, except once. Only one dealer had them in stock, and it's 200 miles from my home. Fortunately, at the time, I was going there anyway. The dealer was 5 miles from Pismo Beach, where we were going for a holiday.

    In the future, I'll probably reuse them if not damaged. That's what I'd do, but I have to recommend replacement because that's what the manual says. I don't need the liability of poor advice when it can be avoided (CYA).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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