I've become somewhat of a reluctant "expert" in bleeding Hydroboost, as I've had the system apart several times in the past year: Replaced 3 pumps (2 Saginaw/Nexteer defective with broken shafts), the HB unit itself, and the HB-operated shaft brake. With the engine in the rear, my lines are about 25' from the pump to the HB, so bleeding is no fun.
I agree with dMax except for one part of the procedure: Don't wait for the pump to complain; if it gets that far, air can be reintroduced into the system.
Use a clear or translucent container and a clear hose. Do the procedure dMax recommends, but stop the engine after a couple of cycles. Top off the reservoir, wait 10 minutes, and repeat until no more bubbles can be seen. Waiting is an important part, so the entrained air can migrate to HB unit where the return line can purge it.
The system does self-bleed, but it's best to start as air-free as possible; because the HB is the system high point, using dMax's technique works very well.
'94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).
Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.