need axle advice

[AJMBLAZER]

What he said, get the conversion U joint.

Barring that, I believe I have read on CK5 that the yoke off of a 10bolt will bolt onto the 14SF.

[flomulgator]

Got the conversion U-joint, then went back and got the conversion straps. Everything worked and ran fine. Then proceeded to do the front axle. That axle either isn't in as good of shape or I did something wrong. Makes a building stuttering noise then bangs like something is breaking loose. Not good. Something binding?

I know the axle had at least seen some abuse because when I grease-gunned the steering arm muddy water came out

Anyways, if you got ideas holler them out, otherwise I'm off to research.

[DmaxMaverick]

First, make sure the gear ratios are the same. If it has auto locking hubs, and the ratios are different, it will force engagement, which could sound like you describe. The front diff should not be engaging unless the transfer case is engaged in 4x4. If one (or both) of the auto locking hubs is damaged or frozen (engaged), it will cause the other to engage.

Otherwise, look for something broken. Anything making a loud noise should show some indication of something wrong. Start with a full service. Remove and repack bearings, pull the cover and inspect the R/P and carrier bearings, etc. If it continues, remove the shafts and check the floater bearings and U-Joints (knuckles). In any case, a disengaged front diff should only be turning on the wheel bearings, with idle shafts.

[87max]

What was said by mav is spot on. is the sound front axle or t-case? I had a guy sell me (my former mechanic!) a 3.73 (it was 4.10) rear. It made a similar sound to what your describing.

[flomulgator]

As best I can tell it is coming from the axle, left front. It is in 2wd so it shouldn't matter if the ratio was wrong. Hell I drove it mid project with the mismatch (3.42 vs. 4.11) and it didn't care since I was in 2wd.

I'm starting to think brakes? When I was bleeding the brakes (my first bleed job) the literature kept talking about bleeding the porportioning valve, which I swear my truck doesn't have. That or it's aftermarket and looks completely different. I really don't want to pull the axle

[AJMBLAZER]

Are the hubs in working order?

Manual or auto?

Auto hubs do odd things when they are broken.

[DmaxMaverick]

As best I can tell it is coming from the axle, left front. It is in 2wd so it shouldn't matter if the ratio was wrong. Hell I drove it mid project with the mismatch (3.42 vs. 4.11) and it didn't care since I was in 2wd.

Correct, assuming the lockers, auto or manual, are in good condition and operating correctly, they should not engage with the TC out of 4x4. They must be cleaned and lubed each time you repack the wheel bearings. If they are auto and one hangs up, it can cause the other to try to lock, or hang up between lock/unlock. Old or water contaminated grease is usually the problem, if they aren't broken.

I'm starting to think brakes? When I was bleeding the brakes (my first bleed job) the literature kept talking about bleeding the porportioning valve, which I swear my truck doesn't have. That or it's aftermarket and looks completely different. I really don't want to pull the axle

It has one, at each axle. Follow the brake line from one end or the other. The Tee (block) is the valve. When they fail, they will create a bias in the braking fluid pressure (left/right, on that axle). Flushing (bleeding) fresh fluid through them helps keep them working properly, and can help get them corrected if shuttled. If you are bleeding the brakes correctly, you shouldn't have to do anything special (such as "bleeding") to them. In any case, they won't cause the noise/condition you described.

[flomulgator]

Awesome, thanks guys!
I know the T-block you are talking about..., and I definitely have a bias problem! When the truck is just warming up it locks the front left brake with the slightest pedal pressure. This went away after a service last year but as of this project is back with a vengence. I will look into replacing the valve. The thing I can't find is any sort of front/rear proportioning valve.

The steering arm had massive water contamination in the "grease" (I don't think there was much left) Water-contamination could easily be the problem. I'm now short on time (need a working truck next weekend) and doing wheel bearings/hubs is yet another new road for me. I may just throw in the towel and take it to my local shop. If I drive real slow for 8 miles do you think I could make it or am I risking serious further damage to the hubs by moving it much?

[AJMBLAZER]

So ahem, uhm, manual or auto hubs?

[flomulgator]

Auto

Apparently I need to write this sentence because there is a minimum post length.

[AJMBLAZER]

Try removing those. Take it for a short drive.

Worth a shot.

[DmaxMaverick]

There is no front-rear proportioning valve. When they act up, or fail, just replace them. Also check the adjusters at the calipers. If they are sticky/rusty, they can cause brake locking or bias. Worn out calipers will do the same thing. (as well as worn out rotors/drums, rusty or oil soaked pads/shoes, etc.)

Good suggestion, disassembling/removing the hub lockers for a test drive. It won't hurt anything, any more than it may be. DO NOT engage 4x4 (the bearing/bushing that floats the spline is in the locker. If this turns out to be the problem, manual locker sets are not too costly (less than trying to repair the auto-lockers). I like the Spicer/Perfect-Circle lockers (all metal, no plastic, like Warn), for about the same price.

Don't be afraid to service the axle yourself. Start by installing new bearings and seals. Be sure the axle nut lock is complete, and serviceable. If questionable, these are inexpensive to replace.

[87max]

If your using the same prop valve as before and are just now having issues it seems doubtful that is it. a simple drive and put your hand on the hub, compare each side they should be the same temp. caliper could be hanging up slightly. also it's easy to get the truck up on a lift or solid jackstands and run it in the air, observe what goes on when the person inside runs it & brakes it. I always use a vacuum gauge to bleed so I can see the air in the clear line. if you don't have that a clear line makes it easier to see plus you can catch it in a can, that stuff is horrible on paint!

[flomulgator]

Everything works! I replaced the front brake pads with new ceramic pads (those were shot, not even, and had differing amounts of wear) and did what I could to clean and grease everything I could while in there. There may still be a bit of brake bias but it is way less. One of the caliper boots was a bit messed up, so that may be a lingering problem. I cleaned and greased what I could.

Also the axle. Pulled the auto hubs (those are tricky), inspected them, and completely cleaned and re-grease packed them (as best I could without disassembling them, they are like a high-tension puzzle!). While that was definitely a good idea, I think in the end it was just that I had moved the axle around too much when installing and it was just "caught between" in and out; I think cycling the transfer case would have stopped all the binding and stuff. Still, very glad I cleaned it up because the right hub was pretty low on grease, and neither were pretty. Everything runs as smooth as butter now.

Results: I've had an opportunity to take this on everything from freeways to a forest service road since I wrote last and, WOW, the truck is completely transformed. I think ideally if I was living in a state with 75 mph freeways and was doing a lot of high speed driving there I would want 3.73's and a turbo with a wastegate that kicks on low. But for everything else this setup is simply superior. At 60mph I am at 1810 rpms which is EXACTLY the sweet spot for economy for this engine (TDP 6.2 Volume...II?), and acceleration, drivability, and transmission shift points are all vastly improved. Turbo engagement is better to boot too. It changed this from a finicky, slow, tricky to drive old truck to something that feels modern, fast, and mechanically sound to which I could safely throw the keys to someone who only drives leased cars and not worry about.

I could probably have achieved the same results by reverting to the 235/75 series whitewalls the truck shipped with but those are just lame and now I have a big truck on big tires with a stronger rear axle that gets comparable fuel economy. I'd like to extend a huge thanks to everyone who helped me (who has never taken a class and does not live in a mechanical culture/environment) get through this project on my own. I'll try and post a picture of the beast later.

[AJMBLAZER]

Pictures are good.





Random but I'd ditch the auto hubs. Famous for dieing when you actually need them and also infamous for quirky odd habits like you found. I put a used but solid set of Warn Premiums on mine and have never looked back.

[flomulgator]

Don't have the axles in this shot but at least you can see what 255/85/16 BFG KM2s look like on 8 lugs, all shiny and new. Skinny mudders!

[87max]

congrats on a job well done!