6.5 to 6600 OR new & better 6.5

[TGVet]

Well its been quite a while since I was on TDP. Since my 95 K2500 Sub went kapooy at 476K back in 05, I was forced to make an immediate decision on another rig ASAP. After testing them all, I settled on a new 3500 Ram QC now with 239K on it and I became a TDR member. But I'm really missing my Sub and now getting close to giving it a new heart which brings me back to TDP for questions and answers hopefully from very reliable sources. Of course opinions are welcome, but the raw facts are what I really hope to find here from those having done what I decide to do.

I was originally going to convert to a 6600, bought Jim's book when it came out on the whole process, came very close to buying a LBZ & matching trans until the bottom fell out of the market and my industry. In hind sight, perhaps I'd been better off at just flipping for another 6.5 right away and get the rig running without a big to-doo. I investigated 6.5 perf. option engines I found via here, even contemplated a 5.9 for it, but I think the 5.9 is best kept for the Dodge frames.

So here's my questions:

Should I opt for the 6600 LBZ or yet a later LBxx ?
Should I opt for a precision built 6.5 with the max HP that is possible either something out of BC or from a local source in Washington or ??

It's been a while since I read up on the Canadian built 6.5 block and I haven't been keeping up on the 6600's of late either. Few years back I found an LBZ & matching tranny w/harness and ECM w/66K on them for $9,600.00 plus freight. Not a bad price. I don't know where the best place to start looking again if I go that route other than a local yard so, if anyone has some info on that as well, I will look forward to it.

Thanks for any feedback..

[More Power]

If "simple" and "best" are combined into one question, I would have to say the new AM General P400 6.5 would be my answer by a wide margin. It's as bullet-proof as a 6.5 can be, and offers the best platform to build an excellent power package for any factory-rated Suburban use.

There are so many questionable vendors out there offering all sorts of questionable products that it's hard to wade through them all. China has made the situation much worse than it was just a few years ago, regarding recommendations for products and vendors. Every week I hear from others how some sort of Chinese auto part has failed in a cheezy sort of way. I even have my own story about a front hub/bearing/ABS sensor replacement I installed (briefly) on my daughter's car that was purchased from a major auto parts house - but turned out to be made in China.... A total piece of crap that didn't work, but cost a lot....

Stick with vendors who we know and trust. They have a reputation to uphold and have demonstrated a commitment to the community.

Jim

[TGVet]

If "simple" and "best" are combined into one question, I would have to say the new AM General P400 6.5 would be my answer by a wide margin. It's as bullet-proof as a 6.5 can be, and offers the best platform to build an excellent power package for any factory-rated Suburban use.

There are so many questionable vendors out there offering all sorts of questionable products that it's hard to wade through them all. China has made the situation much worse than it was just a few years ago, regarding recommendations for products and vendors. Every week I hear from others how some sort of Chinese auto part has failed in a cheezy sort of way. I even have my own story about a front hub/bearing/ABS sensor replacement I installed (briefly) on my daughter's car that was purchased from a major auto parts house - but turned out to be made in China.... A total piece of crap that didn't work, but cost a lot....

Stick with vendors who we know and trust. They have a reputation to uphold and have demonstrated a commitment to the community.

Jim

I recently had all new brakes and rotors put on my Ram, parts from Auto Zone (rotors) were lifetime warranty and made in China not the pads though. I was reluctant to buy them but my mechanic said they were "OK" and of course less $$ than US made. We shall see how well they hold up. Otherwise, I do my best to avoid anything NOT US made and especially from the ChiComms.

I've been saying it for decades and stand by it "China is our worst enemy" and even though they are beating us in the trade war we in with them, we haven't seen anything that's yet to come. The "sleeping giant" I fear is in a coma and deaths door and unless WE WAKE UP to that fact, we're doomed.

That aside, thanks for the feedback Jim, I will investigate the new P400 and find out what it has to offer as compared to the old 6500 GM. I'd like to get 300HP vs the old stock 195 without having to go wild with parts, but having lost touch with that power power plant, perhaps now there are newer mods for it.

Rob

[THEFERMANATOR]

If your looking to do a 6.5 swap, here is about as good as you will find. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=34348 This my 95 BURB converted to an LB7/ALLISON combo. Keep in mind that an LBZ will most likely require a body lift or cowl hood to clear unless you build up a custom intake set-up for it. Personally if I had it to do over again, I would have done a new style 6.5 from GEP(the diamond block) with an ATT on it. I would have spent THOUSANDS less, and had a good deal of power, not as much as I have now but more than enough regardless.

[Edahall]

The 6.5L from GEP would be by far the easiest swap. The other swap that would still be easier than the 6600 Duramax would be the 88-93 6BT VE Cummins or 94-97 P-pump Cummins. All the parts needed to do the conversion such as engine mounts and pulleys to put into a Chevy are available. However, automatic transmissions don't seem to hold up too long behind a 6BT Cummins especially when power output is increased from stock or lots of money is spent to build up the automatic transmission. For this reason, I chose manuals on my Cummins conversions.

[TGVet]

If your looking to do a 6.5 swap, here is about as good as you will find. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=34348 This my 95 BURB converted to an LB7/ALLISON combo. Keep in mind that an LBZ will most likely require a body lift or cowl hood to clear unless you build up a custom intake set-up for it. Personally if I had it to do over again, I would have done a new style 6.5 from GEP(the diamond block) with an ATT on it. I would have spent THOUSANDS less, and had a good deal of power, not as much as I have now but more than enough regardless.

WOW ! I am exhausted from all that and haven't twisted wrench one. There's no way I'm going to do the Dmax now and its not that I don't enjoy a challenge as my daily work life offers that. I suppose if I were an auto mechanic instead of an electrical contractor with a nice shop to work in and all, I'd go for it, But I just want to get my Sub going again ASAP and as much as I would love to have Dmax power my stocker had enough for the ten years and 476,000 miles I put on her to get me by. I'm going to further investigate the newer 6.5 option and hopefuly get the sub in my friends shop this winter for the transfer. BTW, what is the ATT you refereed to ?

I commend you for an awesome job well done.

[THEFERMANATOR]

WOW ! I am exhausted from all that and haven't twisted wrench one. There's no way I'm going to do the Dmax now and its not that I don't enjoy a challenge as my daily work life offers that. I suppose if I were an auto mechanic instead of an electrical contractor with a nice shop to work in and all, I'd go for it, But I just want to get my Sub going again ASAP and as much as I would love to have Dmax power my stocker had enough for the ten years and 476,000 miles I put on her to get me by. I'm going to further investigate the newer 6.5 option and hopefuly get the sub in my friends shop this winter for the transfer. BTW, what is the ATT you refereed to ?

I commend you for an awesome job well done.

ATT=A team turbo. It is an aftermarket non wastegated turbo that seems to be working well for the majority of 6.5ers with a tune for it. I've ridden in a 6.5 with one, and let me just say you would not have guessed it was a 6.5 powering it. He did have alot of other supporting mods done to it as well, but it was impressive to say the least. If your after a quick swap in a hurry, then the DMAX is not for you. I'm sure even Gordon who did his 99 2WD would agree with me on this one as well. An experienced wrench should expect to spend close to 100 hours if I had to guess to do a DMAX swap and make it fully functional and not look like it was slapped in. I have close to 400 hours in mine, but I did ALOT of other things when I did the swap as well. I will say over 2 years almost 25K miles later, she still amazes me at the power she has and is going strong.

Don't count out a new style 6.5 though. AMG made ALOT of improvements when they came out with the OPTIMIZER drop in replacement, and took it even furthur when they built up the P400(it isn't a direct drop in though as it requires a custom oil pan I believe to make work).