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  1. #1

    Default Serpentine squall

    Today a new noise began emanating from under the hood. Thought maybe some grit or gravel from snowplowing had made its way under the hood, but it continually got louder and more consistantly present today. By the time I got home, it was enough to cause me to pop the hood and investigate.

    Its 100% coming from the serpentine belt, near the left (of two dual) alternators, possibly from the tensioner mounted below...but...how to tell which one???

    How about a can of WD-40 with straw engaged, starting with squirting the tensioner? Then...if not the tensioner, a small burst behind the pulley on the alternator?

    What say ye for my test methods to ISOLATE THE SQUEAKER?
    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Geneva, IL
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Hi Mark,

    I ignored a similar noise on my '01, and ended up with a fried belt when the tensioner siezed up in the middle of nowhere.

    Given that there were more than 125k miles on it at the time, I think now that I probably should have replaced the tensioner pre-emptively when I did the alternator the week before.

    FWIW.
    Rich Phillips
    Member #27
    2019 K-2500 Crew Cab Z71
    Cedar Creek Silverback 33RL Fifth Wheel
    In The Past: '82 6.2 Jimmy Blazer, '93 6.5 GMC K-2500, '01 DMAX K-2500, '09 DMAX K-2500

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    With the belt removed, you should be able to feel the bad one turning by hand. They should turn smoothly with a little resistance (the grease and seal). If it spins freely and/or makes any noise (like metal roller skates), it's bad. It is, however, good practice to replace all the idlers, tensioner (at least the bearing) and the belt as soon as one fails. Keep the serviceable (not necessarily "good") one(s) and the belt for roadside spares.

    If it's an alternator, it should be noisy as well if bad, turning by hand.

    Spraying WD40 in there is not a good idea. It'll lubricate the belt, which will cause issues for a long time coming, and probably not tell you anything. It will also sling the stuff all over.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the input. I'm on it today. Probably the tensioner - but unusual at only 85K miles?
    2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.3L daily driver
    • Previous owner of two 1994 6.5L K3500s, '01, '02, and '05 6.6L K2500s, '04 C4500, '06 K3500 dually, '06 K3500 SRW, '09 K3500HD SRW, '05 Denali
    • Total GM diesel miles to date : ~950K

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Puyallup, WA USA
    Posts
    283

    Default

    I had the same issue with mine, shortly after I picked it up (with 33k on the odo). First, I found that the alternator (single) was squeaking... pulled the plastic cover off the back of it, and a few drops of oil took care of it. Second was the belt, which was looking a little worn. I put on a Goodyear Gatorback when I added the second alternator, and it's been silent since.
    2007 GMC Sierra Classic SLT K3500 CC DRW.
    19.5" Alcoas with 245/70R19.5 Goodyear treads, AFE 5" exhaust, Edge Attitude CTS, AMP Powersteps, Bilstein 5100's

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    683

    Default

    So Mark, what did you do? I've noticed that I hear a squeek anytime I drive in rain and then park overnight. When it first starts up I hear the squeek, but after a while it goes away. I'm suspecting the bearings are going dry and there probably is a very slight overnight corrosion that gets worn away after that little while. It's been that way now for about a year. I wish there was a way to lube those bearings, but I don't know of any. The guys out here used to add grease to their sealed bearings on the John Deere combines by using a syringe and needle filling it with grease and puncturing thru the seal and injecting the grease, my nephews say they have kept old bearings running for many years by doing that, seems the rubber or neoprene seals seem to reclose after you withdraw the needle. I've never tried it, but they swear it works just fine.
    02 2500HD LT D/A SB CC 4X4 BLACK, Westin stainless nerf bars, BW GN Hitch,Racor 60S post oem fuel filter, Oil Guard bypass engine oil Filter. All synthetic fluids. Kennedy boost valve, edge, Modified air intake,EGT & Boost digital gauge,TransferFlow combo fuel & tool box, Air Lift Suspesion Bags Rear & compressor with remote, Bilsteins front & rear, Frontier front replacement bumper.

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