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Thread: water in the cab

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    72

    Default water in the cab

    Fracking POS. The black hole continues to suck. Some days it's hard to love the dark star slurping up my financial universe and this is one of them.

    So I'm getting water intrusion into the cab, particularly when parked downhill and much more noticeable when it rains like hell. I could say what it's screwing up, but we all know water inside = bad.

    So in a heavy rain I was able to find the path. At least in the driver's side, its dripping off the inside of the dashboard sheet metal underneath the steering wheel. Passenger footwell is also wet. I'm thinking windshield seal is failing. Your thoughts? Other possibilities?

    Is the fix just "replace"? The glass is uncracked and in...decent...shape.
    Rojo Grande
    1991 GMC Suburban V2500ish
    every option included, every option broken
    265K on the 3rd, yes 3rd motor
    6.5 block/heads, 6.2 plumbing
    Banks Turbo, 4" exhaust
    33" BFG-MT on black wheels
    3/4 ton axle swap

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Ive had this happen b4 on a different car ... I have to replace the windshield seal on my 94 burb it has a drip down it once in while so its on the way out ...i think most windshield guys and reseal it and it itsnt too bad on the wallet
    1994 GMC 2500 6.5LTD 4wd
    Marine injectors and built 4911 pump to run veggie oil

    1981 Toyota 22L Diesel Pickup

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,058

    Default

    Probably not your problem, but on my '93 there were two holes in the cowl under the grate where the wipers are, one on each side. They had a raised lip around them. The cowl has a drain in each (left and right ) corner. When the drains plug up the water rises above the lips and flows in under the upholstery behind the dash.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Sheridan, Oregon
    Posts
    189

    Default

    I had an 82 that leaked real bad in the rain. I cleaned the drains and it still leaked. The seal was good on the windsheild. So while looking around I found that the leak was in the sheet metal around the fire wall. The leak was on both sides of the cab. So with a little hillbilly/redneck thinking, I was able to wrap some cardboard in poly sheeting. Put that under the dash over the tranny hump to a plastic pan on the pass floorboards. Then put some of that same sheeting under the dash on the drivers side so the water would drain down the floor pan and out the rotted seal at the bottom of the door. For a few months, it would rain harder under the dash than out side. I had no luck doing anything else with goops and the likes. Drove it that way for a few months till I got it out of the drive for scrap.

    John
    2004 Chevy K3500 CCLB DRW Duramax. Stock.

    1992 Sea Ray 300DA. 30 plus foot Express Cruiser on a trailer. 13,500# boat and trailer and 69' of combined length rolling. Over length/width permitted load.

    SOLD-95 GMC K2500 SLE 6.5L TD, Relocated PMD to bumper #9 res., Custom Lowes special induction tube, Triple gauges on the pillar EGT, Trans, Boost, High Idle Mod, TCC-Lock up Mod, Custom Back up camera, DIY Manual Wastegate Controller, 4" from down tube to 5" stacks, Vac Pump Removed,2007 wheels, WMI by Cooling Mist 8gph @3psi 11gph on demand

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,294

    Default

    I have owned several of the Square body trucks and had leaks at one time or another.

    My first inclination would be the rubber winshield strap is leaking at the Pinch weld where the strap sits.

    The metal corodes over time in the lower corners and then the water can seep past the strap and drizzle down inside.

    Get through the rainy season and into the warm weather.

    If the strap is good and still supple you can likely save it, if not get a fresh one.

    Remove the lock strip from the center of the strap and then carefull work a narrow tool like and old butter knife between the glass and the strap all the way around, inside and out.

    Now with a blanket laid on the hood, work the rubber strap open and work the windshield out.

    Once the glass is out and placed out of harms way, remove the strap from the pinch weld area.

    You will probably find a rusty spot low in the corners.

    Use some rust mort on these areas and then remove all the loose crusty stuff.

    Once the area has been treated and dried well, paint the area just to the point that the rubber will cover the paint.

    Use a product like rustoleum and brus it on well.
    Allow to dry good, and then install the strap.

    Use windshield Urethane (normally used for bonded winshields)
    Squirt this nasty stuff in the groove of the strap and install it back on the pinch weld.

    Mask the areas well so the urethane does not get out on the paint.

    Once the strap is securely gooped into the pinch weld, re set the glass and install the lock strip.

    This should do the trick.

    There are two drain holes in the corners right at the bottom and you really need to try and keep these open.
    This drains excess water into the air plenum area, and this drains out and onto the ground at the lower body area right at the base of the "A" Pillar.

    Good luck

    I nned to do this on my 89 K5 Blazer as it has a drip on the RH side.


    Missy
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Thanks all. I'll check the drip holes first to see if I have two problems or just one. Robyn is this a problem I can just throw my hard won dollars at and expect it to be fixed by simply taking it to a windshield place or are they liable to miss/overcharge the crap out of the rusty corner problem and I'm better off doing it myself? Because it sounds time consuming and difficult enough for me to want to just leave this one to a "professional", but only for a reasonable fee and with excellent results.

    I feel like I already know the answer.....
    Rojo Grande
    1991 GMC Suburban V2500ish
    every option included, every option broken
    265K on the 3rd, yes 3rd motor
    6.5 block/heads, 6.2 plumbing
    Banks Turbo, 4" exhaust
    33" BFG-MT on black wheels
    3/4 ton axle swap

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