Loss of power and runs rough

[dmax_lineman]

I appreciate all your help,

The oil on the dipstick is not milky nor does it look to me like the is any foreign liquid present, but the dipstick is stainless and for some reason (it's probably been reading this way sense I acquired the truck) I just noticed the oil doesn't want to really adhere to end of the stick except for where the reading marks are.(the end is round and forms an point)

Anyways, the level of the coolant was about an inch under the "FULL COLD" mark but not as low as where it drops down to go into the radiator. As for the hose, it still had plenty of room for me to squeeze it and make the water go back into the fill tank.

To better explain, the truck was my daily driver. It went back and forth to work (about 8 miles a day) and to pick up the kids 3 to 4 times a week (round trip approximately 110 miles 3 to4 times a week). When I noticed a drastic decrease in performance I parked and have driven it maybe twice in a months time, for no more than a mile or two either time.

Now I have cleaned the MAF sensor, just to rule it out as a suspect, it seems to have developed a slight tick but it doesn't go in rhythm with the motor. It sounds like its coming from the a/c compressor. Any other ideas or suggestions before I begin dismantling things to replace the gaskets?, which is the culprit in my personal opinion.

[dmax_lineman]

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this what I'm working with. sorry they aren't that clear its dark and the battery on my phone is dieing so the flash doesn't work.

[DmaxMaverick]

Your oil checking sounds normal. Mine has always been that way. As long as you can check the level by the notches, it's normal. I've never noticed oil adhering to the "bulb" or cable part of the dipstick. As long as the oil you are seeing is normal, nothing to worry about there.

Your coolant level may or may not be normal. It will decrease over time, normally. The description of the hose sounds normal, as well. If it isn't sucking down flat, it isn't significant. A little is normal, after a cool-down. Not a reason to suspect head gaskets.

If the DTC's are persistent, you really need to read/report them better. The actual code numbers would be much more helpful.

I'm not sure what you are trying to show/say with the pics. In any case, any time you have a running issue, and you are using a power module, the first thing you should do is remove/disconnect the module. Get it out of the loop so the system can be properly diagnosed. Often, the problem is the module, or as a direct result of using it (such as a fouled EGR). Now, in CA, if you have emission system codes, you can't pass the smog inspection. You have to get it clear, one way or another.

[EdHale]

One more reason I have no desire to ever go back to California and definitely will never live there.

[Kennedy]

When in doubt, disconnect aftermarket boxes (not a fan of hardware type mods anyhow) and drive stock. As Mav stated we need DTC numbers rather than vague descriptions.

Check teh MAF sensor for oil and dirt. Better yet if you have the stock intake reinstall.

[DmaxMaverick]

One more reason I have no desire to ever go back to California and definitely will never live there.

It isn't all that bad. This applies to all vehicles, Diesel or gas. If the check engine light is on, they don't pass. Diesels are easy, otherwise. If they don't smoke excessively, and have the OEM emission equipment installed (visual inspection), they pass. CA just started inspecting Diesels a couple years ago. Many other states have been doing it for many years/decades, with much more strict requirements. I don't like messing with it every 2 years, but I'm surprised it's taken them this long to start inspecting.

[dmax_lineman]

Thanks you guys, I really appreciate the advice.

I think I have plugged that stupid ODB2 code reader into the truck about 6 or 7 times and it doesn't seem to through out any #'s just words. I don't know how else to describe the readings, and as for the pictures; they were just to show the aftermarket components that have been install. I was hoping that they would make diagnosing the problem a little easier.

[dmax_lineman]

I HAVE FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!

INNOVA ODB2 Code reader has that is very descriptive. Without the programmer plugged in, the trouble codes are still in the computer stored under HISTORY. But the regular $60-$80 code reader wont differentiate between new and old codes it just give out what it finds. So if all previous codes weren't properly removed the will keep showing until they are, even if you have already fixed the problem.

Anyways, the programmer's settings are not accurate and it isn't telling the fuel rail pressure to increase when it needs to. But on the other hand it was telling everything else to increase in volume, and the gear ratio is way off. So it was making the trany long before it was supposed to(the RPM's weren't high enough to make it into the next gear) so it wouldn't shift. The check engine light would appear and the trany would go into whats called SAFE MODE so to speak. It won't shift or let the engine over rev until the problem has been removed or taken care of. So basically the programmer is to blame. Does anyone know if it can be reset to work properly? If so, what do I need to do so? If not, (my whole system is Banks so I'd like to keep it that way) does anyone know which Banks programmer is going to work best with my truck and help maintain relatively fair fuel economy?

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT,
dmax_lineman
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