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Thread: New to forum, and new to diesel!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default New to forum, and new to diesel!

    Hello all!

    I am the proud new owner of a 1985 C20 Silverado with the 6.2! She's a beauty, newly rebuilt granny, and 14x.xxx miles documented. Body is in great condition, she looks to have been garaged most of her life. And the best part, I picked her up for $2,200. A steal imo.

    I live in Missouri where the weather fluctuates like a womans mood.. She's 4x4 just like I like em too.. I'm new to diesels, and have always wanted one. I have decent mechanical abilities from tinkering on gas trucks, but alot of diesel is still forign to me. At some point I would like to install a banks sidewinder when the boss, and check book allows me to do so lol..

    I would like to give her a little tune up, was wondering what good brands are, what is needed, and if there are any additives like sea foam to blow the cob webs out..

    to my knowledge, the plugs are a year old with 5k miles on them, and fuel filter and oil changed a few weeks before purchase.. I've always been a sea foam guy for gas engines to clear carbon deposites and stabilize the oil. But I'm smart enough to ask people with some know how before I start dumping things in!

    she's going to be my baby, and I'll treat her like one, so any input would be greatly appreciated!!

    thanks so much!

    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, In.
    Posts
    536

    Default

    Welcome aboard Michael,
    I'm probably not the guy to advice you here so I'm hoping Robyn or Dmax will jump in and comment. But..... Here are my thoughts as I used to have a similar rig (and wish I had it back...):
    Just change the air filter for now (since I didn't see you mention it in your post) and drive it for a month or so to find out how everything works. By then you'll know if it is using oil or coolant, how it starts, how much acceleration it has, mpgs, etc.
    In other words, just relax and enjoy it for a while!
    Again, welcome to our family!
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Welcome! In my experience the biggest factor to diesel performance is injector pump and injectors and fuel system in general. The other main issue is that compression is what makes the engine work and if you low compression then you will have problems. My experience with my trucks and in the military is that as long you get fuel and allow the engine to breath(air filter and exhuast) then for the most part the world will be a happy place! As far as fuel additives...I think everyone has their own secret juice. For over the shelf stuff I would say the Stanedyne blue label might be your best bet until you get a little more history behind you and the truck. The older engines are better served with fuel that has more lubricants than the current unltra low sulfer pump stuff. So you might want to research that as well.
    Personally, I would steer clear of dumping anything but oil in the crank case.
    The 6.2 is great motor, and there are ALLOT of things that can be done to it CHEAPLY to improve performance.
    This site is a fantastic resource!
    HAVE FUN!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Thanks guys!

    well, I busted a starter mounting bolt yesterday in my drive, and now trying to get the threaded piece out to install a new bolt.. Pain in the butt, but my friend miller light has been helping me out! Lol. I got some Power Services Diesel Kleen + cetane boost grey bottle.. Still working on that bolt lol! got a starter mounting bracket on order from the dealer, so the truck is gonna sit for a few more days, dont wanna crack the block.. any advice would be greatly apreciated!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Hawaii/Arizona
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Brenm1,
    Make sure you replace the broken starter bolt with the correct replacement starter bolt not a standard bolt. Also, be sure that you install a rear starter support bracket if it is missing. These are two things that often cause the starter bolts to break. It sounds like you got a nice truck at a great price. It is 101 in Az right now and you just talked me into taking a break with Miller Light too.
    Good luck
    John
    *2006 Chevy, 3500, 4X4, DRW, (LBZ) D/A, CC, LT, 252K Miles, 19.5" Wheels, Mag Hytec Transmission Pan and Differential Cover, SS Grill Guard, Racor 2 micron aux fuel filter, 100 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank, using Edge Evolution, Predator Diablosport, Kennedy ECM tune, Fitch Fuel Catalyst.

    *2006 Four Winds, Dutchman, 36', RV, D/A, 5500 Kodiak.
    *1993 Harley Davidson, Turbo charged, Springer Softail.
    *2007 Pontiac Solstice.
    *2005 Jeep, Liberty, CRD (diesel).
    *Full-timing in USA, see America first.

    BUY AMERICAN or CANADIAN, NOTHING from CHINA .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    thanks so much for the info guys!

    I have an OEM bolt for the HD starter, still working on getting the broken threads out.. Have a starter bracket on order from a GM dealership. Gonna work to make this beauty my daily driver.. I only put maybe 20 miles a day on my vehicle now. I'm a paramedic at the local hospital. Trying to figure out how to post a few pics lol..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Good idea to replace both starter bolts with new. I only use GM bolts...there is a difference. We had all kinds of problems with broken Starter bolt the MArines due to NOT torqueing the bolts bolts and periodically checking them. I cant remember the torque value. As stated earlier make sure you get the support bracket on tight. Make sure you check everything again after you drive and start it for awhile. If you have the time and the wires are easy to get to...good idea to replace the factory main supply wire with a bigger one and then also make sure all the electrical conections are good.
    Hope this helps...
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,621

    Default

    Hi brenm1
    If you are still working on that bolt......
    Tomorow find your local Snapon truck and buy a couple of left hand drill bits.
    They have cobalt ones i belive.They have a kit with all the goodies for removing broken bolts,but you can buy the bits seperatly.Spray some good penetrating oil like PB blaster,Honey Goo ect.Then chuck up your left hand drill bit and start to drill in the center of the bolt.Theres a real good chance it will come out with the reverse bit.
    Good Luck
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    ahhhh... Still working on that bolt.. Sprayed the crap out of it with penetrating lube, its too tight with the 4wd to get a drill up in there to get a drill bit in there. I kind of rigged up an extention to get a screw removal bit in there, but can't seem to get it to bite.

    getting a little frustrated to say the least, lol.. Might see if I can find someone with a smaller profile drill I guess.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,621

    Default

    Drop the drive shaft,simple removal will give you more room.
    Take your time,you don't want to drill crooked,and you definatly don't want to break the drill or bolt extractor.
    Is there any of the bolt sticking out?If there is a welder with a mig can weld a nut or something to the broken bolt to remove it.
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Remove whatever is needed to gain access and then use the left hand drill. Like you said..maybe find a smaller drill. Just make SURE you don't get off center or angled. Use a set punch to start your drill.
    KROIL is about the only penitrant that I have found that will wick it's way up reliably. Most starter bolts are not corroded.
    DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE HEAT AND ANY TYPE OF EASY-OUT OR EXTRACTOR OR DRILL AT THE SAME TIME. You will end up breaking whatever tool you are using and then you have a problem....;-(
    Have fun....hope this helps!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    thanks guys!

    I think I'll try and drop the shaft tonight, I've had some luck lately lol.. my wife absolutely loves the truck, and she is part of my motivation. Once I get the starter back on, and get it turned over I'll be such a happy camper. I really am greatful for all of the advice. I'll keep everyone updated on my simple 5 minute fix that turned into a headache!!

    thnks again!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northern Ct
    Posts
    224

    Default

    I can't agree more with the above recommendations. Not only using the correct starter bolt, but also using the nose housing bracket. In the infancy of my truck ownership, I busted a few starter bolts. It wasn't until I installed an old Pontiac starter bracket, the correct bolts, and safety wired them, that all starter problems magically disappeared.It's amazing what 415LBs static compression will do to a starter.
    Good luck with your new acquisition.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Union, Mo, USA
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I got the starter fixed yayyyy!!!

    now. there is a loud knock and hideous squeel coming from the driver side of the engine. The squeek is definitely not from the belts, and the truck now has a real rough bouncy idle..

    any suggestions?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Rapids MN 55744
    Posts
    1,648

    Default

    Howdy
    I would suggest starting a new thread to get some attention for the new problem. Use a title that will draw attention like...."hideouse engine knock"....;-)
    Good luck!
    1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
    1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
    2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
    1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
    1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
    1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
    2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
    1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
    1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

    1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
    3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
    Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!

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