Newbie With a 1983 G Series Van & 6.2

[Dvldog8793]

If no fuel spray on 4 cylinders, you are not getting fuel to the injectors.
I would expect it is the ESS or the wire to it. Both of those can be verified without taking the pump out. It could just be a pinched wire. I have never had to replace the ESS but it shouldn't be to hard, I know all the pumps in my local salvage yard have the top cover gone and ESS missing. So it would seem that a shade tree can do it.
If you had the truck running and then it failed due to nasty fuel it might be possible that the fuel did something to the ESS.
In any case, I would verify the ESS and research replacing it before you pull the pump.
Good Luck!

[Bigshankhank]

If no fuel spray on 4 cylinders, you are not getting fuel to the injectors.
I would expect it is the ESS or the wire to it. Both of those can be verified without taking the pump out. It could just be a pinched wire. I have never had to replace the ESS but it shouldn't be to hard, I know all the pumps in my local salvage yard have the top cover gone and ESS missing. So it would seem that a shade tree can do it.
If you had the truck running and then it failed due to nasty fuel it might be possible that the fuel did something to the ESS.
In any case, I would verify the ESS and research replacing it before you pull the pump.
Good Luck!

I am getting voltage to the ESS, and the solenoid clicks (faintly but I can hear it and feel a bump with my finger on it) when I remove and replace the pink wire.

Sadly yesterday I received the dreaded "Get your RV out of your driveway" notice from my HOA, so now I am in crisis mode. I am going double check the tightness of both of my new fuel filters and bleed air out of the injectors one more time then pull the GPs and check for fuel mist with a clean paper towel before I commit to removing the IP. I just need to limp it over to the storage lot two miles away.

[Dvldog8793]

If you are getting air in the system, it is BEFORE the lift pump. Sometimes you can identify this by a line that get wet when not cranking but not actively leaking. Cant remember if you replaced any in tank parts. Are you using an outside fuel source(the boat tank)? It could be possible that you are sucking air from inside the tank.
MOST of the time, you will be safe checking for fuel at 3-4 cylinders, the odds of more than a couple injectors NOT working at all is pretty slim, especially since you did have it running at some point.
Sounds like your ESS is working. Like DMAX said, the injector pump needs to be pushing fuel at a very high pressure. So even if you have fuel at the injector line fittings, it may not be popping the injectors. Especially if the injectors are a little tight and sticky.
If you pull the pump this weekend, follow the instructions in the book step by step. In a van it will be a pain because access to the front and the pump lines is tight.
Again....Good luck!

[Bigshankhank]

If you are getting air in the system, it is BEFORE the lift pump. Sometimes you can identify this by a line that get wet when not cranking but not actively leaking. Cant remember if you replaced any in tank parts. Are you using an outside fuel source(the boat tank)? It could be possible that you are sucking air from inside the tank.
MOST of the time, you will be safe checking for fuel at 3-4 cylinders, the odds of more than a couple injectors NOT working at all is pretty slim, especially since you did have it running at some point.
Sounds like your ESS is working. Like DMAX said, the injector pump needs to be pushing fuel at a very high pressure. So even if you have fuel at the injector line fittings, it may not be popping the injectors. Especially if the injectors are a little tight and sticky.

I am still using the van's tank, so if its leaking between there and the primary filter up to the lift pump at least I know where all the fittings are.
I have not dropped the main tank to get to any of it's parts as it is full of fuel. I have been hoping to just run the fuel level down and drop it once it is near to empty so I can fix the sending unit and replace the sock, but you know it has to actually run in order to do that. I do not have enough containers to siphon nearly 40 gallons out of it.
I did check the fuel lines and filters after I replaced them and had the engine running and did not notice any weeping or wet spots, but I will roll up underneath again this evening and see if I can spot anything. There are no drops on the driveway, FWIW.

If you pull the pump this weekend, follow the instructions in the book step by step. In a van it will be a pain because access to the front and the pump lines is tight.
Again....Good luck!

Man you don't even know. I have read the steps in the book a couple of times through and really want to try and get it out tonight so I can get it to the shop in the morning and maybe get it back and reinstalled this weekend. if I had a helper who could do the work from inside while I work from outside it would be nice, but noone I know knows a darn thing about wrenching. It being Mother's day means I don't even have Sunday to work on it which sucks.

[Bigshankhank]

Only confusing part of removing the IP, how do I place a timing mark on the pump prior to removal? Assuming I do not need to replace it with new, is there a pulley on the face of it with a timing mark somewhere? I can just mark the body to match that so when I get it back it should align close enough to get down the road, correct? Once I pull it off, I won't rotate the engine any further so I am not too terribly concerned with lining up the engine timing marks in any orientation, just resetting the IP position to match it when it was removed.

Thanks again for the help.

[DmaxMaverick]

The pump timing, initially, should be a walk in the park. It should already have timing marks on the pump mounting flange top, and on the timing cover top. The marks should line up, or be close (if timing has been adjusted, which is normal for higher mileage engines to compensate for timing parts wear). If you don't find timing marks on both, scribe a mark on the pump flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you find marks and they are more than 1/8" apart, make a scribe mark on the IP flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you install a different pump, it should have a timing mark you can line up with the mark on the timing cover (line it up approximate to the current pump timing marks). Timing may not be ideal, but it's close enough for a start and run. Correct on not turning the engine with the IP removed. It won't mess with the pump timing, but the pump drive gear can become off-timed with the cam gear (it just sits on top of the cam gear with no pump installed). When installing, the indexing pin on the pump drive flange will reset the correct timing (it will only install correctly one way. so make SURE the pin lines up with the hole in the gear). If for any reason the gear timing seem off, confirm it by lining up the gear timing marks. It's a good idea to rotate the engine so the marks can be seen (through the oil fill hole) lined up, before removing the pump. I've never had one move on me, but it can happen.

If you make timing adjustments, remember, the pump rotates opposite the crank, and at 1/2 speed of the crank (IP timing degrees will be exaggerated at 2X that of the crank, so it doesn't take much movement to mean a lot).

[Bigshankhank]

The pump timing, initially, should be a walk in the park. It should already have timing marks on the pump mounting flange top, and on the timing cover top. The marks should line up, or be close (if timing has been adjusted, which is normal for higher mileage engines to compensate for timing parts wear). If you don't find timing marks on both, scribe a mark on the pump flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you find marks and they are more than 1/8" apart, make a scribe mark on the IP flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you install a different pump, it should have a timing mark you can line up with the mark on the timing cover (line it up approximate to the current pump timing marks). Timing may not be ideal, but it's close enough for a start and run. Correct on not turning the engine with the IP removed. It won't mess with the pump timing, but the pump drive gear can become off-timed with the cam gear (it just sits on top of the cam gear with no pump installed). When installing, the indexing pin on the pump drive flange will reset the correct timing (it will only install correctly one way. so make SURE the pin lines up with the hole in the gear). If for any reason the gear timing seem off, confirm it by lining up the gear timing marks. It's a good idea to rotate the engine so the marks can be seen (through the oil fill hole) lined up, before removing the pump. I've never had one move on me, but it can happen.

If you make timing adjustments, remember, the pump rotates opposite the crank, and at 1/2 speed of the crank (IP timing degrees will be exaggerated at 2X that of the crank, so it doesn't take much movement to mean a lot).

Got it, I am not intending to change or adjust timing at this point, I would hope with only 62K miles this engine isn't "worn" enough to necessitate adjustment yet.

From reading the book, isn't it necessary to rotate the crank in order to access the mounting bolts for the pump? I don't have the book in front of me right now, but I understand removing the oil fill tube from the plate is necessary to access those bolts, and rotating the crank allows access to all three of them.