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Thread: Got a huge estimate from a mechanic.

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  1. #1
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    I can about guarantee the pitman and idler arms are shot. Jack the truck so that the RF wheel is off the ground but not the left. Try to steer the RF tire by grabbing at 3 and 9 oclock. Watch as the drag link rises and falls and the RF tire moves without moving the LF. You can also put a big pipe wrench on the drag link and rotate it.

    We do pitman/idler supports on new OE arms typically.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
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    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
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  2. #2
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    May 2012
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    Langley
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennedy View Post
    I can about guarantee the pitman and idler arms are shot. Jack the truck so that the RF wheel is off the ground but not the left. Try to steer the RF tire by grabbing at 3 and 9 oclock. Watch as the drag link rises and falls and the RF tire moves without moving the LF. You can also put a big pipe wrench on the drag link and rotate it.

    We do pitman/idler supports on new OE arms typically.
    Thanks!, I'll check that out out in the next little while. I hadn't heard of pitman / ldler supports before. I'll check that out too.

    I'm starting to seriously consider installing a lift in my garage... I think it would pay for itself this year...
    GMC Sierra 2500hd 2004.5 now with ARP studs

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Langley
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    Checked it all out, the pitman arm has a surprisingly small amount of play. Seems ok for now.

    Idler arm was shot and is getting a replacement. I ordered a Moog idler arm + the idler arm bracket with the grease extension.

    All the ball joints were in various stages of decay.

    Driver side inner / outer tie rods were getting ready to die, passenger side tie rods were almost done.

    Shocks are still factory... Those are getting done too.

    So far I've done everything on the driver side.

    Going to start on the passenger side next weekend.

    On the bright side I discovered my next door neighbor is a retired heavy duty mechanic (spent 30 years keeping logging camps in operation) and it's been really helpful having someone who knows there stuff right next door.

    I'm going to do all but the pitman / steering gear now, I'm going to do the steering gear / pitman in the fall and will probably spring for the idler / pitman brace. I bought all moog components. I assume their fine with the brace? I see Kennedy said: "OE components" but not sure if that was a hard statement or just a suggestion. I'll probably pull the steering gear right out and check it on a bench + replace the pressure lines when I do it.
    GMC Sierra 2500hd 2004.5 now with ARP studs

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    The OE stuff tends to be as good or better and the OE idler comes as a complete assembly.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Langley
    Posts
    369

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kennedy View Post
    The OE stuff tends to be as good or better and the OE idler comes as a complete assembly.
    oops, when I do the pitman side is that an OE thing too? Moog on the idler side, OE on the pitman side + support brackets.

    Thanks!
    GMC Sierra 2500hd 2004.5 now with ARP studs

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Langley
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    369

    Talking

    Ok, all front end stuff done.

    New Idler / Idler arm bracket. I did install the Moog parts as I'd already bought them.

    After all new inner / outer tie rods, new top bottom ball joints and a new idler /idler arm bracket there is less than 1/2 a mm of play in the whole setup, IE barely noticeable!. I think there was so much slop due to worn components that the whole thing was messy. I also did the rear diff + replaced the front shocks and will be doing the rear tomorrow as well as replace the fuel tank strap that seems to have given way and do the transmission fluid + inner and external filter as well as transfer case and front diff if I have time. (I rarely use 4wd, so presumably that's lowest priority).

    At this stage i'm looking at doing the pitman arm in the fall / spring next year with cognito supports then. I'll see if they go on sale between now and then (Does that happen?).

    The idler arm had definitely been replaced in the relatively recent past, the pitman doesn't have a castle nut on it. But presumably it's been done too.

    Next plan is to patch up the wheel well rust (remove rust, make a bondo / glass patch) Spray down what I can reach with rust converter and then in the fall do another cycle of major preventative maintenance. IE do a proper rust control / removal job + replace the leaky power steering lines (possibly the steering gear too if that's what's leaking).

    I'm hoping by next year to have what looks and works like a brand new truck
    GMC Sierra 2500hd 2004.5 now with ARP studs

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by gary_lucas View Post
    Ok, all front end stuff done.
    ........
    I'm hoping by next year to have what looks and works like a brand new truck
    I'm working on a tech piece that shows how to deal with rust/corrosion on the chassis and related components that is both cheap and easy. I really hate the de-icer used on our winter roads....

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