1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.
That would actually increase my suspicion of a tire issue - either improperly balanced or a defect from the manufacturer.
'94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
'93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
'85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
Diesel Page Member #2423
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.
Hard to say. It could be a defect that appeared with some use - or it could be as simple as a balancing weight that wasn’t properly applied falling off.
'94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
'93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
'85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
Diesel Page Member #2423
With only ~500 miles on the tires, you should be in a good position with the tire shop. Have them check the balance, measure the roll-out (circumference, at the crown and shoulders) of each tire, and the tread-tracking (true tracking around the entire tire) while on the balancer. Also confirm the wheels are, in fact, round (it's surprising how often new wheels aren't, and steel are worse than aluminum). Any variation between the set indicates a bad tire. For over 20 years now, any set of LT (heavy duty, etc.) tires that goes on my trucks get checked for all of the above before any lug nuts get threaded. Larger tires have a greater chance of error, and I've had a few. Truck tires are expensive. They owe you that.
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.
Tire warranties are OK, but with only ~500 miles, it shouldn't matter to you. The tire shop owes you the serviceable product you paid for. Unless they can show that you damaged them, they own the issue, and you shouldn't have to deal with any "warranty" process. Also note, tire warranties often have exclusions for 4x4 vehicle tires, stating they do not replace "pairs or sets" (and additional tire warranties are rarely carried by the tire manufacturer). This indicates they do, if fact, recognize the necessity for a matched set on a 4x4 vehicle, but will deny replacement of non-defect tires, regardless of that necessity. Several years ago, I had a new tire fail (B.F Goodrich, belt-shift). The tire shop happily replaced the failed tire, but refused to replace one other tire that was outside a maximum (2%, I think) roll-out difference. I appealed to the mfg, and they approved replacement of any tire in the set that wasn't within their recommended spec as a set installed on a 4x4 vehicle (I think ProComp has a similar recommendation, which becomes law, if it comes to that). I got 4 new tires. Major tire brand manufacturers stand behind their products. No manufacturing process is perfect, and I accept that. It was a lazy (crooked) tire shop that failed me.
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.
You shouldn't cross tires off the list. Short of something blatantly obvious, tires should always be the first suspect. New or old. I've had many more issues with brand new tires than any with over a few thousand miles on them.
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.